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Bon Appétit
How Brooklyn’s Best Pancakes are Made | Made to Order | Bon Appétit
How Brooklyn’s Best Pancakes are Made | Made to Order | Bon Appétit
Bon Appétit
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8:03 · Apr 15, 2026
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>> My
name
is
Jake
Leiber.
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/198
0:05
>> My name is Jake Leiber.
0:06
I am the chef and owner of Shay Ma Tan here in Greenpoint, Brooklyn.
0:10
Today I'm going to show you how to make my perfect
0:17
>> Shay Ma Tan has been open for nearly 9 years now.
0:20
It was inspired by the nouveau bistro scene in Paris.
0:23
Pancakes probably the most popular dish.
0:26
We make literally like 1200 pancakes on a weekend.
0:28
They have this great crispy edge.
0:30
Pushing the color on them to get that toasted marshmallow
0:33
flavor is So, I'm going to start by cracking all my eggs.
0:41
If you get shells in your bowl,
0:43
there's this lovely trick
0:45
that if you use a shell,
0:47
it scoops it out really easily.
0:48
If I tried to use my fingers for that,
0:51
it would just slide around and avoid my fingers like
0:54
like my children avoiding going to bed.
0:57
I'm going to do eight and eight eggs and egg yolks.
0:59
I'm just using my hands to separate
1:02
the whites from the yolk.
1:03
I'm letting the whites
1:05
slip through my fingers,
1:06
my very clean, recently washed
1:10
You do not have to waste your whites at all.
1:12
You can make an omelet out of them.
1:13
You can save them to make meringue.
1:15
Extra yolks contribute richness.
1:18
I'm going to cream my sugar a bit
1:20
just to make sure that it's evenly
1:24
I'm going to go in with salt
1:26
and baking powder to make them rise.
1:29
Probably the most important thing about the batter,
1:31
we're mixing our ingredients
1:32
evenly so we don't have some that end up flat and some that end up fluffy.
1:37
But look at it already.
1:38
It's starting to I'm going with about half the milk.
1:42
I'm using whole milk.
1:43
Skim milk is By adding milk in stages,
1:47
it helps to make my batter a little bit more even.
1:50
This is leached all-purpose flour.
1:53
Adding the flour bit by bit helps to avoid lumps.
1:57
Now it's getting tight.
1:58
I can feel my arm like it's starting to feel like cement a little bit.
2:00
I'm going to add a little bit more of my milk.
2:03
Kind of got to use your eye a bit.
2:05
If the batter's super wet,
2:07
your pancakes are going to be flat
2:08
and nobody wants flat pancakes.
2:12
One of the special things about this recipe
2:14
is that we use clarified butter,
2:15
butter that has been separated
2:17
from the milk solids.
2:18
And once I add the fat,
2:20
don't be scared if you see it broken. It will incorporate.
2:23
And that's about the consistency we're looking for.
2:25
A little bit like a drippy sand castle.
2:27
Any like decent supermarket
2:29
has clarified butter these days. Called ghee.
2:33
G H E E.
2:36
If you don't have clarified butter, you can use literally
2:38
any oil that you have in your pantry.
2:41
We also use a little bit of lemon zest.
2:44
Zest doesn't add acidity,
2:46
but it adds brightness.
2:48
It helps cut the richness of the pancakes.
2:50
Some people ask me why
2:51
I put my microplane
2:53
in my belly button.
2:54
It's like my fishing rod anchor.
2:56
I wasn't thinking about it, but then
2:58
somebody called me out.
2:59
They're like, "Are you
3:00
Is your microplane in your belly button?"
3:02
And I was like,
3:05
I've been talking a lot and my batter is tightening.
3:08
It's holding even longer than it would before.
3:10
That's partially because I emulsified
3:12
some fat into it
3:13
and the fat is cooling in the cold egg
3:16
and the cold milk.
3:17
You can make your batter in advance.
3:19
You probably should actually, at least even an hour in advance.
3:22
You can rest it in the fridge.
3:23
I actually have a batch
3:24
of rested pancake batter right here.
3:27
By resting your batter,
3:28
it hydrates and it cools.
3:31
The fat is super
3:33
like congealed in here and it's going to hold its shape
3:37
when it hits the hot griddle.
3:42
>> So, what really sets this pancake apart
3:44
is what I'm about to do right now.
3:47
I know you saw me putting clarified butter into the batter.
3:50
I'm going to fry them in an ocean of clarified butter
3:53
and that's what really makes them special, super crispy.
3:56
Clarified butter has a much higher smoke point than traditional butter.
4:00
We don't run any risk of burning our fat,
4:02
making the fat bitter in the pancake.
4:04
As it warms, the fat is shimmering
4:07
and it's just barely starting to smoke.
4:09
The griddle should be at a good temperature.
4:11
If you do not have a griddle like this at home,
4:14
you can use literally any frying pan. It doesn't matter.
4:16
Especially it doesn't matter because you're using this much fat.
4:19
So, I have my rested batter here.
4:21
This is maybe a 4-oz ladle.
4:23
But it's dropping in and it's sizzling right away, which is exactly what we're looking for.
4:28
And I'm going to give them enough space cuz they're going to expand.
4:31
These generally take eight or so minutes to cook
4:34
this very cold, thick batter all the way through.
4:37
I have eight on here.
4:38
They're nice and evenly spaced.
4:39
This one is frying more.
4:40
Obviously it's hotter in the middle.
4:42
That's because the rim is absorbing heat. But they're setting.
4:45
I don't want to disturb them too much just yet.
4:47
And we want it to set almost like a custard.
4:49
Once they set, I'm going to move them around
4:52
cuz I have this really nice pancake in the middle
4:55
that's getting a little bit too much heat
4:56
and the other ones need a little bit of heat, too.
4:59
These generally take eight or so minutes to cook,
5:01
80% of the cooking on the first side.
5:03
This one's pretty much ready.
5:05
The bubbles are not nearly as active
5:07
and it's like kind of tacky up top. Looks dry.
5:10
So, that when we flip it, it doesn't flatten
5:12
and eject the raw batter on the other side.
5:17
I like a smaller turner because
5:19
I'm going to gently flip from one side over to the
5:22
I'm seeing a pancake now that's
5:24
a shade or two darker than golden brown.
5:28
I'm seeing this I'm seeing double rings.
5:31
I'm seeing a double rainbow right now.
5:33
See this ring here
5:34
and this ring here? That's magic.
5:36
And this right here is super crispy and super fluffy.
5:39
I'm going to start looking at my other pancakes.
5:41
They're all looking really
5:43
Let's flip this guy right here.
5:45
That's a nice color, too.
5:45
Look at that one.
5:47
I like my pancakes
5:48
dark because they end up having this like almost
5:51
burnt caramel flavor to them.
5:53
You don't want it to be like soft and anemic looking.
5:56
I just splattered a out of myself, which is
5:59
par for the course.
6:02
You can see Okay, so now look at this.
6:03
It's splattered out a little bit.
6:05
It's just under set just a tiny bit.
6:07
It's a usable pancake.
6:08
Also, it's going to rise on its second side.
6:10
It's going to keep rising.
6:12
Pancakes are like snowflakes.
6:13
They're all beautiful in their own way.
6:15
And then once you flip them, they need time to rise again.
6:18
This is the first one.
6:18
I know this one's cooked.
6:20
If I tap on my pancake
6:21
and it doesn't like compress at all, it's cooked all the way through.
6:24
They should sound like patting a baseball
6:26
mitt or someone's tushy.
6:29
So, they're all sounding pretty good to
6:31
Let's go with the biggest ones on the
6:34
These are hot off the griddle.
6:35
I'm going to cover them in butter and maple syrup.
6:38
Pretty pretty pretty good.
6:45
>> I've got my plate here.
6:46
We have five pancakes.
6:47
Normally we serve two.
6:49
I'm going to put a heaping
6:50
ice cream scoop of salted butter. It's whipped.
6:53
You might not need more fat, but
6:55
if you're counting calories like
6:57
get the We used to serve them covered in maple syrup.
7:00
Now we pour them tableside.
7:01
I'm going to drench them in this lovely Pennsylvania maple syrup.
7:05
I don't like random
7:06
all over my pancakes.
7:07
You don't need nuts.
7:09
You don't need fruit.
7:10
You don't need anything.
7:11
You just need butter and maple syrup. They look gorgeous. They're dark.
7:16
They have this wonderful
7:17
ring, this shattering glass-like crispy edge. They're absolutely perfect.
7:23
You can see how fluffy it is.
7:27
They're sweet, but they're not too sweet.
7:29
The lemon like you might not think it does anything, but it really comes through.
7:32
>> They're really nice and crispy.
7:34
It has that almost barely burnt flavor.
7:37
And then you get a little bit more salt from the butter.
7:40
Look at these layers. Look at that.
7:42
It's like a harp.
7:49
Comments below if you would buy my pancake mix, I'll make it.
7:52
I'll make I'll make it.
7:54
Let's let's make some let's make some money.
7:56
Make some money doing it. I'm losing money. Make money. Making pancakes.
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