0:00 In Indonesia, workers extract oil from hazardous wells built over 100 years ago.
0:05 >> >> Here, toxic gases and deadly accidents remain a constant threat.
0:11 And in Cameroon, sand divers plunge underwater up to 300 times a day,
0:17 all for the world's most mined resource.
0:20 We traveled the globe to learn about the world's most dangerous jobs.
0:24 We'll start in India, where people climb tall trees to harvest lac bugs.
0:29 Their resin makes jelly beans shiny.
0:34 This amber goop comes from bugs.
0:38 And you've probably eaten it before.
0:41 >> >> It's a natural resin called shellac.
0:44 And once it's stretched and cooled, it's used in tons of ways,
0:48 from adding a shine to popular candies like jelly beans
0:52 and preserving citrus fruit to finishing wood.
0:55 Its history dates back 3,000 years in India,
0:59 where it was originally used to make jewelry and adorn palaces.
1:03 India is the world's largest shellac producer,
1:06 exporting over $65 million worth of it a year.
1:10 But fluctuating harvests and prices have put this ancient industry at risk.
1:23 So, how exactly do a tiny insect's excretions end up on your candy
1:27 and lemons?
1:29 We head to India to find out.
1:35 >> >> The Kerria lacca insect is teeny,
1:38 barely big enough to see with the naked eye.
1:41 In June, farmers implant brood lac, or the mamas, onto new tree branches.
1:46 Their babies will hatch and spread out.
1:48 As they suck the tree sap, the females secrete an amber-colored resin.
1:53 When it hits the air, it hardens, creating a protective nest.
1:56 This is what becomes valuable shellac.
2:01 This curved knife called a dauli is the most important tool for farmers like
2:06 Turlin Don.
2:13 She climbs up to 20 ft to reach the small branches where the insects
2:19 grow.
2:19 She has about a hundred of these lac infested trees.
2:34 >> >> It can take
2:34 as many as 300,000 insects to make just 1 kilo of shellac.
2:39 That's where the lac insect derives its name from ikh lakh meaning 100,000 in
2:46 Hindi.
2:46 Turlin can harvest that in one day.
2:49 But it takes her two more to scrape it all off.
2:54 She uses the same dauli.
3:03 >> >> She sells the lac to a local market earning $7 a kilo.
3:11 That's where Manoj Sardaogi buys it.
3:15 His factory sources raw lac from four states
3:17 and processes over 500 metric tons a year.
3:23 It all starts with crushing and washing which is the most challenging part.
3:30 Cleaning the lac for too long could lower the yield.
3:47 Then the lac has to dry to prevent mold
3:50 and make it easier to extract the resin.
3:53 During winters, Manoj's staff leaves the lac in this yard for an hour
3:57 and a half.
3:59 In hotter months, it takes about half the time.
4:02 They have to watch it closely since too much heat can turn it black.
4:06 That's considered low quality and won't fetch as much money.
4:22 Next, the workers assign it one of four grades depending on the size.
4:26 They remove small sticks by hand.
4:31 This machine separates any remaining stones from the mix.
4:49 The workers put the lac into a cloth tube
4:52 that looks kind of like a giant sock.
4:58 They twist it so the mixture moves toward the kiln
5:01 and spin it until the lac melts.
5:07 The sock collects any leftover rocks or sticks that might have snuck in.
5:11 They spend at least 6 hours a day spinning the tube
5:14 and stoking the fire
5:15 that burns at 167° Fahrenheit.
5:22 In the summer, it can get up to 113° in this factory.
5:34 These symmetrical circles are called button shellac, which are used to make bangles.
5:50 >> Workers also spread it across this tool called a pippa to make sheet shellac.
5:55 They use a palm leaf to spread it out evenly.
6:02 The workers remove it once it's cooled.
6:05 And they stretch it out even more using their hands, feet, and teeth.
6:12 This is how shellac has been made for centuries.
6:25 They'll pull it to an even 5-ft by 5-ft square.
6:29 These sheets will be used to polish candies, cashew nuts, and fruit.
6:37 Machines have largely replaced the traditional hand stretching method.
6:44 This one presses out thin sheets, sort of like a pasta maker.
6:49 It processes most of the factory's lac,
6:52 making shellac four times faster than by hand stretching.
6:56 The workers give it one quick tug and then rip it off.
7:00 They'll hang it up to harden and cool,
7:03 and then chop it into hair-thin pieces.
7:07 These will stiffen into shards exported around the world.
7:12 Manoj can sell the refined shellac for almost double what he paid for it.
7:22 Indonesia and the United States are his biggest customers.
7:26 The US is also the world's largest importer,
7:29 buying up roughly a fourth of all Indian shellac.
7:32 It's been valued for 3,000 years for its versatility.
7:36 One of shellac's earliest uses was as a rich crimson dye.
7:41 The insect's excretions also made a strong glue
7:44 and added a shiny water-resistant finish to wood
7:47 and leather.
7:48 In medieval Europe, artists mixed it into paints.
7:51 In the 1800s, it became the base of gramophone records before the invention of
7:56 vinyl.
7:57 Through the 1900s, it was a popular finish for wood paneling in American homes.
8:02 It also made its way into pharmaceuticals, coating pills and tablets and food.
8:08 As a glossy glaze for candies, cakes, and nuts.
8:12 Today, the global shellac industry is worth over 167 million dollars
8:18 and more than half of the world's supply comes from India.
8:22 The US Food and Drug Administration allows it
8:24 as a food-safe additive
8:26 as long as it's listed on the ingredients list
8:28 as shellac or confectioners glaze.
8:31 It's in treats like Junior Mints, jelly beans, candy corn, and Whoppers.
8:36 It's also often dissolved in alcohol and sprayed onto citrus fruit.
8:40 The waxy coating wicks away moisture, extending the fruit's shelf life.
8:45 And that gloss makes for a more eye-catching lemon on grocery store shelves.
8:56 >> >> Thousands of people in Toodlin's village depend on shellac for a living,
9:01 but the price has fluctuated a lot.
9:03 >> >> In 2022, Toodlin could make $12 a kilo.
9:08 Now the price is half that.
9:10 So, she started farming ducks for additional income.
9:14 She also grows rice and vegetables.
9:16 That's because raising the storied insects has gotten a lot harder,
9:20 largely due to the climate crisis.
9:23 Intensifying rainstorms have washed lac off tree branches and led to fungal infestations.
9:29 More extreme heat is drying up the trees
9:31 that are the insect's main food source.
9:39 >> >> The two Kumar V 2 works for an NGO
9:42 that helps farmers research why their insects are dying.
9:59 >> >> His organization educates farmers on the benefits of using fungicides,
10:03 which can increase lack production.
10:19 >> >> Armed with a little help from science,
10:22 Indian lack producers are fighting to keep raising their amber insects for generations to
10:27 come.
10:49 >> >> Everyday, workers back the walls of this mountain with powerful explosives.
10:57 All to extract one thing.
11:02 Himalayan pink salt.
11:12 The Khewra mine in Pakistan has the largest pink salt deposits in the world.
11:17 Some of these raw blocks weigh up to 800 kilos.
11:22 Too heavy to lift by hand.
11:26 Most of the salt ships to Europe and the US.
11:31 Where it is often branded
11:32 as a healthy product selling for up to 30 times the price of regular
11:37 white salt.
11:38 But reports suggest that it has high levels of heavy metals and microplastics.
11:44 Still, as the world's appetite for pink salt keeps growing,
11:49 how is a single mountain range powering this global industry?
12:05 Asif Mehmood gets his three sons ready for school every day before heading out
12:10 to the mines that hold the coveted Himalayan pink salt.
12:32 The salt doesn't actually come from the Himalayas,
12:35 which are about 250 km east of here,
12:39 but from the lower altitude Potohar Plateau in Punjab province.
12:45 With two decades of experience,
12:47 Asif is now a supervisor responsible for the safety of the miners.
12:53 Inside, about 40 km of tunnels connect 17 levels that are divided into chambers.
13:04 First, experienced miners read the walls.
13:08 They're looking for high-quality salt.
13:25 After finding the deposits,
13:27 they start drilling holes about 4 ft deep
13:30 and pack them with explosives using just their bare hands.
13:35 A single spark or flame at this point could turn the chamber into an
13:39 inferno.
13:42 Then workers add the fuse wire, which snakes through the rock,
13:46 giving them just enough time to clear the area.
13:52 Asif moves away to another chamber,
13:55 but he still hears the explosion loud and clear.
14:08 After 30 minutes, they cautiously make their way back through the tunnels.
14:34 Miners aren't allowed to extract everything.
14:38 A lot of the rock is used for structural support,
14:41 so the chambers don't collapse.
14:45 It takes workers about 2 hours to load the tractor trolleys mostly by hand.
14:52 Every year they harvest close to 400,000 tons of salt from the mountain range.
14:59 But that's just a fraction of the reserves found here.
15:02 Even at current extraction rates, this salt is expected to last for centuries.
15:11 The Khewra Salt Mine is owned by the government,
15:14 which leases out sections to private companies like Ittefaq Salt.
15:22 Asif has worked with them since he was 20.
15:25 The company pays him a salary of about 100,000 rupees a month
15:29 or $350.
15:35 That's above the average monthly wage for unskilled workers in this region.
15:51 In fact, locals like Asif have depended on the Khewra mine for generations.
15:56 Geologists say the salt formed here around 600 million years ago.
16:01 When ancient seas evaporated, leaving behind thick mineral deposits.
16:07 Its signature pink hue comes from trace amounts of iron oxide.
16:12 The same compound that makes rust red.
16:15 The more iron it contains, the deeper the pink.
16:18 So, the salt can range from pale blush to dark red.
16:23 Legend says that around 326 BC,
16:26 during Alexander the Great's expedition to the Indian subcontinent,
16:30 his horses uncovered the deposits after they began licking salty rocks along the trail.
16:37 But, industrial scale mining started here in the 1870s,
16:41 when the British colonized the region.
16:44 Pakistan gained independence in 1947 and took ownership of the salt mines.
16:52 But, most of the work is done by private companies like Ittefaq Salt.
16:59 They process the rocks at this factory in Lahore, about 280 km away.
17:05 Here, workers like Amir Aslam start their day by suiting up with protective gear.
17:20 >> First, workers evaluate the raw blocks and sort them by color.
17:24 Then they check for any remaining gunpowder and chip it off.
17:29 They also scan the rock for natural cracks.
17:33 Some pieces can weigh up to 100 kilos,
17:36 so armor says they have to be handled with caution.
17:48 That's why workers cut down the largest slabs first.
17:53 But as the size shrinks,
17:54 their hands get closer to the blade
17:57 and the risk increases
18:00 as the diamond-tipped edge slices through in seconds.
18:06 Today they're working on an order for Himalayan salt lamps.
18:10 They drill a hole in the center, which throws up salt fumes.
18:25 Over time, those particles can collect in the lungs, making it harder to breathe.
18:36 To stay safe, new hires also have to undergo 3 months of training.
18:50 These days, the factory has even automated some parts of the process to increase
18:55 production.
18:57 It can now handle nearly 350 metric tons of salt a day,
19:02 the weight of a fully loaded Boeing 747 jumbo jet.
19:07 And demand has only been skyrocketing over the years for everything from salts to
19:13 lamps used in aromatherapy
19:16 and edible salt.
19:18 The finished products are stacked, wrapped, boxed, labeled,
19:22 and shipped around the world to more than 80 countries.
19:26 In some US grocery stores,
19:28 a container of Himalayan pink salt sells for about $10.
19:32 But a much larger jar of regular table salt can cost just $1.
19:38 It's often more costly
19:40 because of how it's branded
19:42 as a more natural
19:43 and healthier alternative to regular table salt.
19:46 Influencers claim it can regulate blood sugar, improve sleep, and detoxify the body.
19:52 But scientists say there's no solid evidence behind those claims.
19:57 In fact, one recent study shows
19:59 that Himalayan pink salt contains higher amounts of microplastics than other rock salts,
20:06 with the contamination happening at the processing and packaging stage.
20:11 Other reports show that it contains heavy metals like lead, mercury,
20:15 and arsenic that can be toxic even in small quantities.
20:20 >> I made a shocking discovery about pink Himalayan salt.
20:25 >> On top of that,
20:25 there are also many fake products out there
20:28 that add pink dye to regular salt
20:31 and sell it at premium prices.
20:33 >> It looks like foundation that I can put on my face.
20:38 >> Still, the people who work with the salt continue to believe in those
20:42 healing properties.
20:54 Since 2018, the global market for Himalayan salt has grown steadily
21:00 and is expected to reach almost 700 million in 2030.
21:06 But Pakistan's annual exports are valued at only a fraction of that.
21:11 That's because most of the profits in this industry are made later in the
21:16 supply chain,
21:17 when the salt is turned into products.
21:19 And for years, Pakistan wasn't actually doing that.
21:24 It lacked the equipment to grind and refine it to international standards.
21:29 So, exporting raw salt became an easier option.
21:32 Most of it was shipped at low prices to India,
21:36 where it was processed and sold to western markets as a premium product,
21:41 sometimes even labeled as made in India.
21:45 Pakistan saw little of the profit.
21:50 But, in 2019, political tensions between the two countries escalated over control of the
21:56 Kashmir region.
21:57 Pakistan suspended bilateral trade with India,
22:00 cutting off a major export route for raw salt.
22:05 So, local companies started processing the salt themselves.
22:10 But, those early workshops weren't as modern or safe as they are today.
22:17 We filmed it 1 6 years ago.
22:20 There, we saw some workers handling the same sharp equipment without gloves.
22:25 Fine salt fumes filled the air, coating the machines, the floors,
22:30 and even the workers' faces.
22:33 Not many of them wore masks.
22:36 Despite the risks, many workers still value this job.
22:44 Because Khewra isn't just a salt mine.
22:47 It's a national attraction, bringing in about 250,000 tourists every year.
22:56 A source of pride for many who work in the industry.
23:02 >> Those blocks are doing multiple shapes of products and making >> Meanwhile at the mine,
23:16 Asif's 8-hour shift is finally over.
23:21 So he bonds with co-workers over a cup of tea
23:24 and a melancholy song.
23:37 But his spirits are anything but defeated.
23:40 Tomorrow he looks forward to another day inside this mine.
24:31 These men in Colombia descend into mines that could collapse with one wrong move.
24:40 About 70% of the country's gold is still dug out in informal mines like
24:44 these.
24:52 But the danger isn't just underground.
24:56 The precious metal ends up funding armed groups.
24:59 In fact, gold is now their biggest source of income.
25:03 To stop this trade, authorities are blowing up illegal mines one by one.
25:10 Yet, demand for gold is soaring, especially in the United States.
25:15 >> As the number one destination for Colombian gold, the US is involved.
25:20 We're talking billions and billions of dollars a year in dirty money.
25:25 >> So, how did gold become more lucrative than cocaine for Colombia's most dangerous criminals?
25:32 And if it's so tainted, why are countries still buying it?
25:39 Marmato village in the Colombian Andes clings to what's known
25:43 as the mountain of gold.
25:46 Here, 4,300 ft above sea level,
25:49 families have mined the precious metal for over 500 years. 30-year-old James Rotavista grew
26:01 up on this mountain.
26:15 Centuries of digging have left many tunnels mostly empty.
26:20 So, miners go deeper than their forefathers, down 2,000 ft.
26:27 Where ground water weakens support beams fast.
26:36 The men follow what they call veins that snake through the rocks.
26:42 They change color depending on the minerals mixed in.
26:46 The walls that shimmer hide the gold.
27:00 >> Today, the men are betting on this vein.
27:20 They start by drilling holes to place explosives.
27:24 But Matamato's tunnels are full of old ones
27:27 that never went off
27:29 and have killed some of his colleagues years later.
27:49 Once they light the fuse,
27:51 they have just a few minutes to get
27:52 as far as they can from the blast
27:55 which emits poisonous carbon monoxide.
28:14 When the dust settles, the men go back in.
28:39 He fills a sack with about 55 lb of ore,
28:42 the rocks that contain the gold.
29:02 >> This mine and all the underground minerals in it are owned by the
29:06 Colombian government,
29:08 which issues permits.
29:10 But to qualify, workers need to meet some standards,
29:14 including using safer machinery for extraction.
29:18 James' team can't afford that,
29:20 so authorities can stop them from mining at any time.
29:33 James' team of 60 men work together to load up the carts.
30:09 The state requires every operation to have its own rescue team.
30:13 But artisanal mines here rarely do. 55-year-old Jose Gallego worked in a mine for
30:25 22 years.
30:28 But a close call with death motivated him to join a volunteer rescue team.
30:42 Jose says they're the first responders in Hat Moco.
30:49 They all share a single rescue truck.
31:00 There's just one road through town.
31:04 And every minute counts.
31:19 >> >> It takes them almost half an hour to get to the highest
31:22 point the car can reach.
31:24 They need to hike the rest of the way.
31:31 Today, they reach the mine in near record time.
31:35 Only to find out a young miner had dropped 420 ft.
31:39 That's about the height of a 40-story building.
31:43 Blanca Rodas joined the team 11 years ago.
31:47 But even she's not trained for this kind of mission.
31:55 Both the miners and the rescuers are on edge as time ticks by.
32:13 Today, all she and the team can do is wait for other miners to
32:17 retrieve the man from the shaft.
32:37 >> >> After 2 hours, the miners finally carried the man out.
32:43 But, it was too late to save him.
32:56 The team drives the miner to the nearest hospital, where his family is waiting.
33:02 Caicedo has repeatedly asked the government for funding,
33:06 but he says he's barely received enough to pay the team a modest wage.
33:33 For Blanca, the emotional toll of a failed mission never goes away.
34:03 But, even outside these mines,
34:05 the risks young men in the state face are growing.
34:10 Columbia's gold-rich regions have become hotspots for the country's most powerful cartels
34:16 and rebel groups.
34:18 Historically, they relied mainly on cocaine to finance their operations.
34:24 But, recent crackdowns on drug trafficking pushed them to explore other revenue sources.
34:30 Julia Yansura tracks how dirty money enters the global financial system.
34:35 >> The drug trafficking
34:37 and criminal organizations we're seeing in Colombia today are sophisticated organizations
34:42 that are relying on different income streams.
34:44 So, gold has become one of those income streams.
34:48 >> In 2013, gold officially surpassed cocaine as their biggest source of revenue.
34:54 And over the past decade,
34:56 inflation and trade wars have continued to push prices to record highs.
35:02 >> The price of cocaine has sort of stalled out.
35:05 That's due to an overproduction of cocaine.
35:08 Compare that to the price of gold, which is just incredible, astronomical growth.
35:14 >> Now, hundreds of mines operate under criminal networks,
35:18 which experts estimate rake in billions of dollars annually.
35:23 The Colombian government has formed a special task force to wipe out criminal operations.
35:29 But policy analysts say that's also an outdated approach.
35:34 >> I think it's the myth
35:35 that we can solve this problem by sending out police
35:38 and military.
35:40 They will blow up just heavy machinery used in in illegal mining.
35:43 And within 1 hour of the yellow machinery being blown up,
35:47 they're already seeing new yellow machinery being transported to to the zone.
35:52 There's got to be a better way to do this.
35:56 >> In this fight between the government and criminal groups,
35:59 local miners like Diego Jaramillo often get caught in the crossfire.
36:15 >> >> Diego has been mining for decades here in Segovia,
36:19 the country's main gold mining hub.
36:22 But these days, cartels often coerce miners like him into selling their ore
36:27 or joining their ranks.
36:37 Diego began mining here at just 14 along with his friends.
36:48 Indigenous tribes started digging for gold here at least a thousand years ago to
36:53 use it in cultural
36:54 and spiritual rituals.
36:56 But in the 1500s,
36:58 Spanish colonists seized mines across the country
37:02 and brought in foreign enslaved people to work in them.
37:06 Nearly 300 years later,
37:09 Colombia gained independence from the Spanish with help from the British,
37:13 who also claimed some of the mines.
37:16 Still, artisanal workers kept chipping away in areas where no one controlled mining rights.
37:23 Then in the 1990s,
37:25 Colombia made a push to attract foreign companies by giving them exclusive licenses for
37:31 huge swaths of land.
37:35 This area where Diego's been digging for 30 years is now on the turf
37:39 of a company called Quintana.
37:42 But he mines here anyway.
37:51 Most of the gold in this mine is long gone,
37:55 but he still looks for scraps because they're especially valuable today.
38:01 Gold prices reached an all-time record of nearly $5,600 in early 2026.
38:08 Even though most small-scale miners end up selling their gold for 70% of the
38:13 full market value,
38:15 they still make about 10 times the $22 daily minimum wage in Colombia.
38:22 Diego, for example, often collects enough ore over 2 days to earn $500.
38:32 Once he's gathered as much as he can carry,
38:35 Diego brings it to a processor a few miles away.
38:39 This one is independent, but many others are operated by armed groups.
38:45 Diego dumps his ore into this barrel and adds water to it.
38:51 He also adds mercury, which sticks to the gold, making it easier to isolate.
38:57 But, it's extremely toxic over time.
39:00 Still, miners continue using it without any precautions.
39:15 Men hit the barrels to help break up the ore.
39:20 And inside, these steel balls grind it, making it easier to free the gold.
39:27 Water carries lighter minerals away, while gold is heavy,
39:32 so it settles at the bottom.
39:35 At this point, the mercury is still stuck to the gold,
39:39 so the nuggets are heated to burn that off.
39:43 This also melts away any natural clues indicating where the gold came from.
39:49 And experts say that's a major draw for armed groups,
39:53 because that makes it easier to launder the gold before it leaves the country.
39:59 >> You might be thinking, you know, illicit gold is going to be smuggled.
40:02 Not really.
40:03 Documentation is falsified as though it's coming from a legal mine,
40:07 and that's a really tricky thing for law enforcement to deal with.
40:12 >> The government does track how much gold is exported.
40:15 In 2024, it shipped 4.1 billion dollars worth.
40:20 But, that's far more than its licensed mines said they produced.
40:24 Meaning, the rest came from illegal or informal sites.
40:29 >> For Colombia, it's been really hard to get data,
40:33 but we know the majority is illegally sourced.
40:37 We're talking at least 2 billion dollars a year.
40:40 A lot of it is exported as though it were a totally legal product,
40:44 just like you would export sweatshirts or Coca-Cola.
40:48 >> Most of the gold Colombia exports ends up in the US,
40:51 which in 2024 imported 1.5 billion dollars worth.
40:57 >> Most Americans perceive this
40:59 as this remote problem
41:00 that has nothing to do with us,
41:02 and that couldn't be farther from the truth.
41:04 As the number one destination for Colombian gold, the US is involved.
41:10 >> Julia says Miami is a major port of entry.
41:13 Officials have seized illicit gold there in the past.
41:17 >> That's one airport.
41:18 That suggests a lot of this dirty gold is ending up here,
41:22 either through formal export processes
41:24 or through travelers who bring gold in their backpack
41:28 or whatnot,
41:29 >> >> fly into the airport.
41:30 They're not necessarily going to go to jail.
41:32 Gold is not an illegal product.
41:35 If you have those same guys transporting a bag of cocaine,
41:38 if they get caught, they're going to go to jail.
41:40 So, that makes the risk of doing business a lot lower.
41:45 >> Once that enters the US, experts say it's laundered again through shell companies.
41:50 >> We've got pretty weak money laundering policies, particularly with regard to anonymous shell companies.
41:56 That continues to be a big vulnerability in our system.
42:01 >> Now, Colombia is trying to tackle the problem at its root by giving
42:06 artisanal miners,
42:07 like Juan Camilo, better opportunities.
42:11 For the past 2 years,
42:13 he's worked for a local small-scale mining company in Segovia
42:17 that sells its ore to a larger Canadian company called Aris.
42:22 It has partnered with them under certain conditions.
42:48 They go down a shaft that drops down 550 ft,
42:52 but no one wears a harness.
43:16 Miners have installed new equipment in here, like this pulley system.
43:41 Juan's income isn't dependent on how much he collects.
43:45 He's paid a steady salary by the small-scale mining company.
43:49 It sells the ore exclusively to Aris,
43:52 which provides a better rate for the gold than other buyers.
43:57 Even though he loves this job, Juan says it's taken many of his friends.
44:03 And he wants those who will someday wear this gold to know its true
44:07 cost.
44:19 At the end of the day,
44:20 what's most important for Juan is
44:22 that his colleagues stay safe
44:24 and that he can keep mining beside them.
44:40 We also went to an official Ares mine that is highly mechanized.
44:45 Carlos Mario supervises a team here.
44:49 He briefs the men before they head in for the day.
44:53 This railcar takes them six levels down.
44:57 In this mine, machines do most of the heavy lifting.
45:01 Robotic arms drill holes for the dynamite.
45:16 But Carlos's team mines where machines can't.
45:22 They rely on techniques they learned as artisanal miners.
45:26 Ares supplies the protective gear
45:28 and trains the men to check the walls before drilling.
45:36 Working with Ares, they earn a steady wage of about $100 a day,
45:41 roughly five times the minimum wage in Colombia.
45:44 Informal mining can pay more on a good day, but it's a gamble.
45:58 This kind of cooperation between Ares and local miners took years to secure.
46:16 All the material the men collect ends up here.
46:20 The company processes about 2,000 tons of ore a day.
46:26 It's separated into piles depending on which mine it came from.
46:40 >> >> The ore is ground into a fine grain.
46:44 Next, workers add chemicals called collectors
46:48 that bind to the gold
46:49 and make it repel water.
46:56 >> >> At this stage, the gold is still mixed with other minerals.
47:00 So, this machine adds cyanide to dissolve it.
47:04 The waste rock stays solid and filters out.
47:08 A plant like this one recovers about 96% of the gold from the ore,
47:13 far more than informal operations.
47:23 To recover it, they add zinc, which sticks to the cyanide,
47:27 leaving the gold behind.
47:29 The company chooses women for this part of the job
47:32 because they're seen as more detail-oriented.
47:36 One is always stationed here watching so that no gold gets lost.
47:49 Ares also took us to its foundry, the final stage in the process.
47:58 A giant oven heats the refined gold to over 2,000° Fahrenheit.
48:03 Just standing here for a few minutes could sear the men's skin
48:07 if they didn't wear these suits
48:09 that are designed to reflect heat.
48:12 It takes 2 hours to melt one batch of gold.
48:19 They let the bars cool and harden.
48:22 But these aren't all pure gold.
48:25 Sometimes there's silver mixed in.
48:34 The lighter bars are the ones that contain more silver.
48:38 Darker bars hold more gold, making them higher carat and pricier.
48:44 The highest you can find on the market is 24-karat gold,
48:47 which is 99.9% pure, but it's soft.
48:52 That's why it's mostly used for ceremonial jewelry, not everyday wear.
48:57 Or in the bars that back currencies.
49:00 Some gold goes as low as eight carats, which is just a third pure.
49:05 It's tougher because of the added metals, but it loses its shine and color.
49:11 Each bar is marked with a unique serial number
49:15 that allows suppliers and buyers to trace it.
49:19 Before it's sold and shipped off, Ares stores them here for safekeeping.
49:31 Ares says it sells its bars mainly to European countries.
49:37 Today, demand for this metal is booming.
49:40 Many people hold on to it as a recession-proof investment.
49:44 It's also increasingly being used in modern technology,
49:48 like the cheap views that run AI >> >> and smartphones.
49:53 These days, consumers are pressuring tech companies to reveal their supply chains.
49:58 And that's been challenging for Colombia.
50:01 As reports have exposed the role gold plays in funding criminal groups.
50:06 Now, many big mining companies are doubling down to prove their resource ethically
50:11 and legally.
50:19 Back in Marmato, James Rotavista is considering working with Ares, too.
50:24 To earn a more stable income for his wife and two children.
50:31 Until then, he wants people to buy his gold without criminalizing the only job
50:36 he's ever loved.
51:08 >> >> These sandstone mines are killing tens of thousands of men.
51:16 They're constantly breathing in clouds of toxic dust that cause a deadly lung disease.
51:28 Most workers don't make it past the age of 40.
51:34 Anu has worked here his whole life.
51:37 And so did his father.
51:39 But it destroyed his lungs.
51:42 To pay for medical bills, workers have to borrow money from their employer.
51:46 But they don't earn enough to pay off these loans.
51:50 So, they keep working here even though this dust >> >> is suffocating them now, too.
51:58 Activists say this is a form of modern-day slavery.
52:08 But as global demand grows for this sandstone,
52:11 this work is creating an entire village of widows who are now trying to
52:17 pay off loans of those who are long gone.
52:27 So, why are conditions at these mines so deadly?
52:31 And how can families get away from a job that's killing them
52:35 as long as they're chained by debt?
52:48 Just a few miles from the sandstone quarries of Rajasthan lies this village.
52:55 Almost every single resident here is a widow.
53:00 Years of breathing dust at the quarries took their husbands' lives.
53:06 Now, they have also turned to sandstone to support their families.
53:12 Like 27-year-old Bimla.
53:25 Now, the women spend their days chipping away at these smaller sandstone pieces,
53:31 shaping them into tiles, while the men work in the heart of the quarry.
53:39 Over 160 billion dollars' worth of unmined sandstone can be found in Rajasthan.
53:47 The men start by cutting stones from the walls of this pit.
53:52 They drill holes about a foot apart
53:54 and create outlines with paint
53:56 so they know where to eventually cut the rock.
54:08 No one wears a mask, but the temperatures here can hit nearly 120° Fahrenheit.
54:15 So, they're constantly exposed to this fine dust.
54:22 It builds up deep in the lungs.
54:25 The body tries to wall it off with scar tissue,
54:28 but that hardens the lungs
54:30 and over time makes it impossible for oxygen to pass through.
54:34 That's called silicosis, a deadly disease.
54:44 To cover his father's care,
54:46 the family borrowed money from a local bank and the quarry supervisor.
54:51 Both charged interest.
54:54 Anu was trying to pay this off when he got hurt.
54:58 He was breaking a slab just like these workers
55:01 when a rock dropped
55:03 and shattered his foot.
55:23 Today, he says he owes 125,000 rupees or about 1,380 dollars.
55:30 And paying it off has been hard
55:33 because he earns just 5 dollars a day.
55:35 Not nearly enough to keep up with expenses and make loan payments.
55:53 We couldn't track down the operator of Anu's Quarry.
55:57 But another mine owner we contacted didn't answer any of our phone calls.
56:07 Most workers live a couple of miles from the quarry in Bilbasti neighborhood.
56:18 Including 32-year-old Hira Ram, who has been sick for 8 years.
56:27 His 26-year-old wife Shayti looks after him.
56:40 And silicosis patients often grow painfully thin because they lose their appetite.
57:03 To afford treatment, Shayti had to send their children away to live in government
57:08 hostels.
57:11 It's a sacrifice she's learned to live with.
57:29 Shayti's neighbor Sapna is trapped in the same cycle.
57:35 Her husband died 5 years ago from the same disease that's killing Hira.
57:40 But before he passed, he'd borrowed money, forcing Sapna into stone work.
57:51 To pay off his loans, she had to borrow more,
57:54 about 500,000 rupees or $5,500.
57:58 This time from her boss at the quarry.
58:01 But he charges 70% interest and payments are due every 15 days.
58:07 Meanwhile, as a woman, Sapna is paid about half of what the men make,
58:12 just 300 rupees a day or about $3.
58:16 Not nearly enough to raise four children on her own.
58:23 Sapna's daughter came to work with her until the dust took her life, too.
58:36 She was only 20.
58:40 And now Sapna also has silicosis.
58:44 But she still works when she can.
58:59 Since losing her loved ones, Sapna has borrowed more,
59:03 including money to pay for her family's funerals.
59:07 She says she's still in debt, but doesn't know how much she owes.
59:14 The women rarely meet the mine owners,
59:17 who are allegedly wealthy locals with political ties.
59:21 They lease the land from the government
59:22 that owns it and sometimes use false names to escape accountability.
59:28 They hire contractors to recruit workers, run the day-to-day operations,
59:32 and negotiate loans.
59:45 In this village, Sapna is surrounded by other widows like her.
59:53 >> >> Radha Bai began working at the quarry in 1983.
59:59 A few years later, silicosis from mining killed her husband.
60:17 The 60-year-old still mourns the partner she lost 29 years ago.
60:32 To get by, Radha works in the quarry.
60:36 She makes about 30 tiles a day and earns just 30 cents.
60:42 Meanwhile, her boss can sell a single tile for up to 60 cents,
60:47 >> >> twice what Radha makes in an entire day.
61:01 The widows aren't safe at the mines.
61:03 They say they're constantly harassed by male workers.
61:07 In many villages in India,
61:09 they're believed to bring bad luck >> >>
61:11 and are often shunned by their own families at occasions like weddings
61:15 and baby showers.
61:18 In ancient rituals, some Hindu families even burned widows alive at their husband's funerals.
61:24 The practice, called Sati, was officially banned in 1829.
61:29 But the stigma still exists.
61:39 It's not just men and women who are trapped in these jobs, but children,
61:44 too.
61:44 Even though child labor has been banned in India since 2016,
61:48 kids above the age of 14 are legally allowed to work,
61:52 but not in hazardous jobs like mining.
61:55 Still, sometimes the children who end up here are even younger.
62:20 Anu never because of his debt, and he lives with his parents.
62:25 Today, he's meeting his cousin Navraj Ram for a cup of tea.
62:33 Navraj was diagnosed 4 years ago with silicosis, too.
62:52 Navraj has also taken notes to send his children to school.
63:11 He prays he can keep working for a few more years
63:14 so he can pay off his debt.
63:34 To save money, Navraji has given up on treatment.
63:41 But many miners get check-ups at a nearby hospital.
63:54 For decades, doctors were misdiagnosing many patients with tuberculosis, which is treatable.
64:01 But workers kept dying.
64:03 So, in 2009, the Rajasthan State Human Rights Commission stepped in
64:08 and discovered it was actually silicosis,
64:12 a slow but certain killer.
64:15 No one survives the disease.
64:30 >> >> Independent estimates suggest
64:32 that today there are about 800,000 cases of silicosis across Rajasthan.
64:40 And even though this disease is a worker's life sentence,
64:44 the rock dug up travels far and wide.
64:49 Sandstone is easier to carve than other rocks.
64:53 So, it has been used in India for centuries to build fortresses
64:57 and palaces which draw hundreds of thousands of tourists each year.
65:01 It was even used to construct the president's house.
65:05 The state's capital, Jaipur, is famous for its sandstone structures.
65:10 In 2025, about $60 million dollars worth of sandstone left the country.
65:15 Many exports are bound for the US, Europe, and the UK,
65:20 where it's used to decorate bathrooms, driveways, and cobbled roads.
65:25 In the US, a single square foot tile can range from 10 to 30
65:29 dollars,
65:30 which is much more expensive than concrete.
65:34 But before it's exported, the stone moves through a long chain of middlemen,
65:39 erasing any link to specific quarries.
65:58 Rana Sengupta runs a local NGO called Mine Labor Protection Campaign, or MLPC.
66:13 But at the same time, government just get through your mining converter.
66:16 One government is showing you the exploitation to SM Joe consumer
66:23 which are getting a chance of product mainly to smoke blood stains you.
66:28 Rana says it's hard for the government to keep track of conditions
66:32 as there are over 30,000 mines cutting across Rajasthan
66:36 and just one state agency to keep watch.
66:39 So, the NGO fills critical gaps while looking out for workers and widows.
67:02 The state is legally required to pay women a one-time sum of 300,000 rupees
67:08 or about $3,300 if their husbands die of silicosis.
67:13 But often, there are no employment contracts,
67:16 and many women are too afraid to officially report their deaths.
67:27 About 85% of women here can't read or write.
67:32 Activists say minor operators take advantage of that when they issue their loans.
68:02 By law, the state should give silicosis workers a one-time payment of about 100,000
68:08 rupees or $1,000.
68:10 And government data shows that from 2022 to 2025,
68:15 more than 118,000 people in Rajasthan applied for the aid,
68:20 saying they had the disease.
68:22 But the state only certified about 6,000 cases
68:26 and paid out just 5,000.
68:31 Experts say the government routinely rejects claims to dodge responsibility
68:36 and limit how much it has to pay. government I'm going to do just
69:06 a revenue order. aligned with
69:09 that.
69:10 Lucky workers get off.
69:12 >> We emailed India's Ministry of Mines, its labor department,
69:16 and Rajasthan state labor and mining departments,
69:20 and called every number listed on their websites.
69:24 Two officials hung up on us when we started asking questions.
69:27 Several of our calls went unanswered.
69:30 And other numbers weren't in service, including the one for Rajasthan's silicosis help desk.
69:38 Still, Rana says the state could save thousands in compensation
69:42 if they focused on preventing the disease in the first place.
69:47 He points to quarries around the world that use machinery,
69:50 like wire saws to cut rocks, so workers are not directly exposed to dust.
69:56 But that equipment can be expensive.
69:59 And if mine owners won't buy it, Rana says the state should,
70:04 as this land still belongs to the government.
70:07 >> Government could take that away.
70:09 Key other up to see go.
70:10 Mining can then they have to have.
70:12 Though.
70:13 I'm going to go and go back to the DJ.
70:15 Basically financial.
70:19 Technology.
70:19 Political will kill you.
70:20 Egg.
70:22 No.
70:22 Government can do it so many of them are not sure.
70:24 He have a good commanding to him kiss you open me.
70:27 Kiss you go social good to me to me.
70:30 >> But the oppression goes back centuries.
70:33 Most workers here are considered Dalit or untouchables.
70:37 >> >> It's the lowest rung in the Hindu caste system, which was outlawed decades ago,
70:42 but still exists.
70:45 >> I'll be a worker in local by system.
70:48 May he a local go ahead.
70:50 Lucky at the day.
70:51 Yeah, or what you have already they will basically a rocky surface water.
70:55 We fertile land later.
70:58 >> There they found sandstone and other rocks and began selling them.
71:03 Soon the government wanted to cash in,
71:05 so it claimed ownership of all underground minerals and offered mining licenses.
71:11 Historically, some were reserved for marginalized communities, but many locals couldn't afford these permits,
71:18 and that opened the door for the wealthy.
71:33 >> >> So on paper, the work was reserved for the lowest caste, but in reality,
71:39 the mining belonged to those with money.
71:51 >> >> While we were filming this video, Hira Ram was admitted to the hospital.
72:29 Hira died a month after we filmed this documentary.
72:35 He told us he'd always worry about the family
72:38 and friends he would leave behind.
72:43 Anu now has silicosis too.
72:48 And he doesn't know how much longer his lungs will hold out.
72:52 So he keeps a quiet list of the things he'd do
72:55 if he ever escapes this dust before it claims his life,
72:59 too.
73:41 >> >> For over 500 years,
73:43 miners in Bolivia have been digging out silver from this mountain.
73:50 The precious metal is now more valuable than ever,
73:53 soaring more than 150% in 2025
73:57 and hitting a record high of about $80 an ounce.
74:01 AI is fueling the new demand.
74:04 Silver is widely used in high-performance chips, circuit boards,
74:08 and transmission networks at data centers.
74:12 Now, global supplies are running short.
74:16 This mountain once held the most silver in the world,
74:20 but when we visited Bolivia in 2023, there was not much left.
74:27 These days, the men mostly find zinc, tin, and lead.
74:38 The nonstop mining has left this extinct volcano porous
74:42 and unstable and a threat to anyone who dares to work here.
74:57 So how do miners extract metals
74:59 that are crucial to an AI future
75:02 while using age-old techniques?
75:06 And how do they stay safe inside a mountain on the brink of collapse?
75:18 At 13,000 ft, Potosi is one of the highest cities on the planet.
75:25 Cerro Rico or rich mountain towers over it.
75:34 It made Potosi the wealthiest place in Latin America back in the 16th century.
75:40 Today, it's one of the poorest.
75:44 Luciano lives at the base of the mountain with his wife in a one-room
75:48 house.
75:48 >> >> There's no heat, just electricity and a stove for cooking.
76:00 Luciano is semi-retired.
76:04 But to make ends meet, he still mines once or twice a week.
76:14 About 40% of Potosi's residents work in mining-related jobs.
76:20 And nearly half of the population lives in extreme poverty,
76:24 more than three times the national average.
76:31 After 10 minutes, the bus drops Luciano at the mine.
76:44 He stocks up on alcohol and he buys coca leaves that give him energy.
76:56 Then he buys sticks of dynamite to use later.
77:04 There are nearly 500 mines in here, but many are abandoned.
77:19 After entering the mine,
77:21 Luciano first makes an offering to El Tio or the uncle.
77:27 Some historians believe the Spanish installed statues of the devil to scare the workers
77:33 and instill discipline.
77:47 Legend has it that in 1544,
77:50 an indigenous farmer called Diego Wallpa discovered silver here
77:54 while looking for his lost llamas.
77:57 But it's the Spaniards who excavated most of it
78:00 when they conquered Potosi in the 16th century.
78:04 European engravings show how they forced more than 13,000 local indigenous peoples
78:10 and enslaved Africans to work at the mines.
78:14 For the next 200 years,
78:16 more than 40,000 tons of silver was shipped to Europe.
78:21 Across the Spanish empire, silver bars and coins were used as currency,
78:26 funding the army and churches.
78:33 Hundreds of years later, Bolivia's state mining company COMIBOL took over Cerro Rico.
78:39 And when the price of silver dropped drastically in the 1980s,
78:43 Comibol handed the mountain over to the indigenous people of the region.
78:50 Currently, about 16,000 miners work here.
78:56 They're descendants of the same indigenous communities who toiled here centuries ago. 65 miles
79:06 of connect the mountain.
79:14 These rails were installed between the 16th and 19th centuries.
79:25 And miners still use simple tools like a chisel and hammer to extract ore.
79:55 Today, Luciano's chipping away at a vein of tin, which is black in color.
80:22 But to find bigger pieces,
80:24 he has to go deeper into the mountain's unexplored corners.
80:28 For that, he needs dynamite.
80:52 >> Luciano has to act fast since he's competing with other miners.
81:05 He moves nearly 200 ft away after setting off the dynamite.
81:14 Workers collect the broken rocks into sacks that can weigh up to 90 lb.
81:20 An elevator pulls the minerals up to where the mining carts are.
81:35 The fatality rate inside small-scale mines like these is 90% higher than in industrialized
81:42 countries.
81:53 Many miners contract silicosis, a deadly lung disease caused by constant exposure to dust.
82:01 Usually after 10 years of working inside the mine.
82:07 Luciano was hospitalized for over a year because of it.
82:22 Luciano is 52, but most workers don't live past the age of 40.
82:30 Luckily, he gets health insurance
82:32 because he's part of one of the many cooperatives
82:35 that control the mines.
82:37 Each co-op has anywhere from 50 to 1,000 members,
82:41 and they're all indigenous.
82:44 Miners pay mostly monthly dues
82:46 and a one-time membership fee
82:48 that can cost up to $1,000.
82:51 Members can also hire contractors to work on their behalf.
83:00 >> Sometimes these are other members of the mining cooperative, but sometimes they're day laborers.
83:05 And the whole group works together following, for example,
83:09 one vein of zinc or complejo, the mixed ore vein.
83:16 >> The biggest benefit of cooperatives is that miners can keep whatever they find.
83:23 They could make a ton of money,
83:26 enough to put themselves or their kids through school.
83:29 >> Their children will still inherit their membership in the cooperative,
83:33 but instead of actually going underground and mining themselves,
83:36 they only hire out day laborers to work on their behalf.
83:41 >> But day laborers aren't a part of cooperatives and don't get any benefits,
83:46 only a daily wage as little as $10.
83:50 Luciano can make about $70 on a good day mining lead, zinc, or tin.
84:00 These days he rarely comes across silver.
84:04 Most of it was exploited by 1825.
84:08 But sometimes he can find traces of it in rocks.
84:27 >> All the minerals are dumped into pits off the side of the mountain.
84:34 They're sorted and then sold to middlemen who are buyers for foreign companies.
84:41 Trucks transport it out of Bolivia, which is landlocked, to ports in neighboring Chile.
84:48 Then the unrefined minerals are shipped overseas.
84:52 In 2021, Bolivia sold nearly 1.3 billion dollars worth of zinc.
84:58 Its uses include cars, batteries, even paint and rubber.
85:04 Most of it ends up in South Korea, where it's processed at factories.
85:09 >> In addition to refining zinc, they're also able to extract indium,
85:13 which is a mineral
85:15 that is needed for a lot of touchscreen
85:17 and um high-end technologies
85:20 that is much more lucrative the unrefined zinc
85:23 that the Bolivians export.
85:24 The Bolivians do not receive any money for the indium that they export.
85:30 It's often treated as a flaw.
85:37 >> While mineral exports keep Bolivia afloat, decades of excavation have destabilized Cerro Rico.
85:46 Now, it's slowly sinking because of mining at the very top.
85:51 >> It's incredibly dangerous to be mining in the the tip of the mountain
85:56 because cave-ins are so increasingly common there.
85:59 But, it's also one of the places where there is the most remaining mineral,
86:04 and so a lot of people are willing to take very high risks.
86:08 >> In 2014, a presidential decree was passed to stop excavation above the 14,000
86:15 foot mark.
86:17 >> >> But, several cooperatives did not sign the agreement.
86:21 Now some experts say Cerro Rico is like a piece of Swiss cheese with
86:25 many holes in it.
86:27 >> The cooperative miners aren't coordinating where they're going to go, what vein they're following,
86:32 and so you can have a lot of structural problems
86:37 that develop in the mountain
86:38 when two miners are working quite close to one another,
86:41 both following separate veins,
86:44 but not leaving enough rock there to hold up the tunnel for anyone else
86:49 who comes after.
86:52 >> State mining company COMIBOL is in charge of keeping the mountain structurally safe,
86:57 even though it doesn't own the mines.
87:13 Gregorio Socaño Coro is a technician for COMIBOL.
87:17 Today, he's overseeing a project funded by the Bolivian government to fortify parts of
87:22 the mountain.
87:24 They're pumping cement into the peak to stabilize the shaky rocks.
87:45 >> >> Gregorio wants Cerro Rico to continue to be a source of pride for Bolivians.
87:51 But today, it is an endangered world heritage site.
87:55 And the livelihoods of thousands of locals are at stake.
88:21 >> Potosí >> Every so often Luciano visits this local cemetery.
88:41 Today he's paying his respects to his late cousin Zacharias.
89:15 Historians estimate about 8 million miners have died here from illnesses
89:20 or accidents since the 16th century.
89:24 Some graves here are nearly 200 years old.
89:29 While Luciano relies on El Tio for support in the mines,
89:33 here he prays to Jesus.
89:47 Meanwhile, Cerro Rico continues to loom over the city.
89:52 A source of pride, fear, and sorrow for Bolivians.
90:13 >> This pink lake in Senegal is saltier than the Dead Sea.
90:17 And miners, like Ousmane Dembélé,
90:20 scoop out thousands of tons of salt from it every year.
90:25 But plunging into Lake Retba, or Lac Rose as locals call it,
90:29 is a lot more dangerous than it seems.
90:42 Still, Senegal is West Africa's leading salt producer with ponds scattered across the country.
90:51 Thousands of people depend on the industry.
90:54 But some ecologists worry
90:56 that Lac Rose and its signature pink hue are in danger of disappearing
91:02 because of rapid urbanization
91:04 and climate change.
91:06 So, what's being done to protect one of Africa's most lucrative lakes
91:11 as well as the miners who break their backs working here every day?
91:18 Ousmane Dembélé, also known as Baba,
91:22 has been diving into Lac Rose for 20 years.
91:26 >> >> Before heading out, he applies shea butter,
91:29 which creates a protective layer over his skin.
91:38 And he covers his legs the best he can with these socks secured with
91:45 bits of nylon.
91:51 Baba then pushes out this wooden canoe that he bought for nearly $360.
91:57 But it's a lifelong investment.
92:01 He steers it to shallow parts of the lake where water evaporates faster leaving
92:06 behind salt crust.
92:17 Baba and his brother who taught him the trade can afford very few tools
92:22 like these long shovels with
92:24 which they reach the lake bed.
92:27 They also use their feet to feel for the salt
92:30 but that can be risky.
92:40 He can't go underwater to look for the crust
92:42 because he doesn't have goggles
92:44 and the high salinity can damage his eyes.
92:54 Baba usually spends 4 to 5 hours doing this over and over again.
93:10 Extracting the salt is actually beneficial for the lake
93:14 which would fill up
93:15 if the deposits aren't removed.
93:17 In some parts Lac Rose is 10 times saltier than normal ocean water.
93:23 That's because it's separated from the Atlantic by a strip of sand dunes
93:28 that formed thousands of years ago.
93:30 While the salt water seeps in from the ocean there's no outlet for Lac
93:36 Rose and as the sun evaporates surface water faster than it comes in,
93:40 it leaves behind high concentrations of salt and other minerals.
93:44 At its peak salinity can be
93:46 as high as 40% even more than the Dead Sea.
93:51 As for its signature pink color,
93:53 that comes from a type of algae called Dunaliella salina,
93:58 which flourishes in salt water.
94:00 It produces an orange-red pigment when it absorbs sunlight.
94:05 That's why Lac Rose glows brightest in the dry season, between November and June.
94:13 Once full, these baskets can weigh about 55 lb each.
94:17 On a good day, Baba and his brother fill about 60 of these.
94:22 That's as much as the canoe can carry without capsizing.
94:27 So, harvesters add these sticks
94:29 as markers to come back
94:31 and collect more salt later.
94:42 The hard work isn't over yet.
94:49 Kura Sao is one of many workers whose job is transporting the salt from
94:54 the canoe into piles along the lake's banks,
94:58 where it dries up.
95:17 Kura makes about 20 trips back and forth every day.
95:31 For every canoe she unloads, she makes about 1,000 West African francs,
95:37 or $2 US.
95:39 That can buy her a few loaves of bread in Senegal.
95:43 But the more basins she collects, the more money she makes,
95:47 so she fights through the pain.
96:06 >> The job has also taken a toll on Baba's body,
96:10 which is covered in sores.
96:13 So, he applies duct tape on his wounds.
96:28 This tape is the only protection that Baba can afford.
96:33 He makes just 5 to $10 a day based on the amount of salt
96:37 he harvests.
96:39 Still, he is thankful for it.
96:54 Workers like him are the backbone of Senegal's salt industry,
96:58 harvesting nearly 60,000 metric tons from the lake per year.
97:03 Artisanal extractions started to thrive in the early '70s
97:07 when the Senegalese government officially classified Lac Rose
97:10 as a mine and allowed locals to harvest salt without official permit
97:16 or paying royalties.
97:19 These days, wholesalers buy it directly from people like Baba for up to 80
97:24 cents per basket,
97:25 but they often sell it for double that price.
97:29 Salt is also collected in other parts of Senegal.
97:33 Here in the Palmarin region,
97:35 locals have dug up hundreds of small salt wells >> >>
97:39 that naturally collect saline water from the sea.
97:54 >> >> Women spend up to 8 hours a day scooping it up
97:58 and leaving it out to dry.
98:14 >> >> Women are also taking charge in the nearby salt flats of Fatick.
98:35 Marie Douf, now known as the salt queen, started her own business here.
98:55 One reason why her salt sells fast is because she mixes in iodine.
99:00 Adding the mineral is required in most African countries, but isn't enforced.
99:06 A 2021 survey found
99:08 that iodine deficiency rates in sub-Saharan Africa are twice
99:12 as high as the global average,
99:15 contributing to health problems like swelling, fatigue, and issues during pregnancy.
99:36 While Senegal is the largest salt producer in West Africa,
99:39 generating about half a million tons a year.
99:43 Globally, it doesn't rank among the top 10.
99:46 China is the biggest manufacturer, producing 53 million tons of salt a year,
99:53 followed by the US and India, which generates 30 million tons of salt annually.
100:01 About a third of it comes from this dry seabed called Little Rann of
100:06 Kutch,
100:07 and it ends up in soaps, detergents, and table salt.
100:11 But miners say collecting it in the scorching heat causes boils and skin diseases.
100:18 And just like Senegal, the miners don't make much,
100:22 earning a meager wage of $4 a ton.
100:26 Another spot that's known for its therapeutic salt is the Dead Sea,
100:31 which lies landlocked between Israel and Jordan.
100:34 For centuries, tourists have visited seeking cures for skin diseases.
100:40 >> >> But the Dead Sea is also teeming with other minerals, like magnesium and potash,
100:45 which is a type of potassium-rich salt often used as a fertilizer.
100:50 The process for harvesting these minerals is mechanized, as companies use techniques like dredging,
100:56 and modern plants refine millions of tons every year.
101:02 Meanwhile, here at Lac Rose, miners are facing obstacles to growing their business.
101:09 The climate crisis is bringing more rain to the region every year.
101:14 Salt collectors were hit hardest in 2022, when flooding breached the lake's banks.
101:21 Water started streaming in from new channels,
101:24 diluting the lake's salinity and its signature pink color.
101:29 >> Et tout se marigole se coule d'eau là,
101:31 sont ce sont de façon naturelle traîner si vous voulez,
101:36 et en suivant la la topographie vers le Lac Rose.
101:40 >> We first visited the lake in 2024, 2 years after the floods,
101:45 when it still looked muddy.
101:47 We went back in 2025, and it had finally regained its pink color.
101:53 That's what attracts visitors from all around the world.
101:58 But tourism has been a blessing and a curse to this lake.
102:03 Removal of nearby dunes to make way for hotels
102:06 and vacation homes has caused the lake to erode.
102:10 Many of these developments don't have a proper sewage system.
102:14 So, they dump untreated waste in here.
102:17 That's elevating nitrate levels in the water, sometimes even contaminating the salt.
102:24 Scientists worry that if these salt crusts become unusable and aren't extracted,
102:29 they could fill up this depression.
102:32 And within a few years, Lac Rose could disappear.
102:37 While there are virtually no living creatures inside the lake,
102:41 it's still important for surrounding ecosystems and birds.
102:45 Now, environmentalists are pushing for it to be designated
102:49 as a UNESCO heritage site to protect its biodiversity.
102:55 While Lac Rose is still around,
102:57 Baba continues to work here day in and day out.
103:01 His family lives in the neighboring country of Mali, which is where he's from.
103:06 But he's found community among the local families that live nearby.
103:12 Spending time with them is his only outlet after a long day's work.
103:40 >> Here in Peru, the search for a seafood delicacy begins with a motorcycle
103:46 ride through the desert.
103:50 Just a handful of people in the whole country are skilled enough to scale
103:55 the towering cliffs.
104:02 They're hunting for a special mollusk called barquillo,
104:06 found inside coastal rocks where the waves crash.
104:27 Barquillos are the main ingredient in a special kind of seafood ceviche that's made
104:33 only in the remote town of Warme,
104:36 which has now become a go-to destination for foodies from all over the world.
104:42 But what's in it for the men who put their lives on the line
104:46 hunting for this elusive sea creature?
104:53 About a 5-hour drive north of Lima is the small fishing town of Warme.
105:00 Every day, Arminio Lobato de la Cruz >> >> packs up his climbing gear
105:05 and hits the road.
105:15 He's learning from his mentor, Juan Li Gomez,
105:19 who has nearly 20 years of experience as a shellfish collector or mariscador.
105:25 He's known as El Grande.
105:28 Together, they bike for 25 miles till they reach this coastal desert.
105:46 But with time, El Grande says he overcame his fear.
105:58 They prefer to scale the cliffs the way their ancestors did.
106:03 Without any formal rock climbing gear.
106:09 The men wear hand-woven mesh shoes that don't retain water.
106:27 El Grande ties the rope around an iron rod that's hammered into the rock.
106:32 This is the only thing
106:34 that anchors them to these cliffs
106:36 that are as high
106:37 as 1,000 ft.
106:53 Lobato goes first.
106:56 The two men take turns rappelling down using each other for support like a
107:01 pulley system.
107:21 Falling rocks and debris make the descent even more challenging.
107:40 El Grande starts to descend once Lobato stops at about 300 ft down.
107:54 The rope isn't long enough to reach the rocks in one shot.
107:59 So, they carry more and tie it at different points along the route.
108:09 The entire descent takes them about 40 minutes.
108:19 Finally, El Grande meets Lobato at a ledge near the ocean.
108:25 The water temperature, even in the summer, is around 68° F.
108:31 So, they put on a thermal suit for insulation.
108:34 These cost them about 1,000 Peruvian soles or about $270,
108:39 but they're an essential investment.
108:43 December to March are the best months to harvest the barquillos
108:47 because the ocean is relatively calmer.
108:50 So, when the water retreats during low tide,
108:53 they try to pluck as many barquillos as they can.
109:40 >> The barquios strive off the algae and sea grass that cover the slippery rocks.
109:46 They're just 2 in long and blend in,
109:49 but the men know exactly what they look like.
109:52 They use their hands
109:54 and sometimes a piece of spring iron to get them off.
110:16 Here in Peru, mariscadores were harvesting barquios
110:20 as far back as 600 AD using rafts to reach them.
110:24 The exterior shell is made of eight plates that overlap slightly,
110:29 allowing it to curl up into a ball.
110:31 Inside, it has a radula or tongue covered with sharp,
110:35 tiny teeth that help it eat the algae.
110:38 They can live up to 20 years
110:40 and are a natural source of food for birds,
110:43 crabs, starfish, and more.
110:46 Species of this mollusk are also found in Alaska, California, Chile,
110:51 and the Great Barrier Reef.
110:55 But today, there are only a dozen mariscadores left in
110:58 and around Huarmey who collect the barquio this way.
111:03 Others, like Juan Obed Loguimet, rent boats to get to nearby tidal pools.
111:10 But that's expensive and much slower.
111:16 Mariscadores also say they can access more locations by climbing up
111:20 and down the cliffs.
111:23 But Juan can no longer do that.
111:25 Last year, a wave thrashed him on these rocks, permanently injuring his knee.
111:40 He uses a different technique to catch the shellfish with special bamboo sticks
111:45 or cañas.
111:47 He attaches an iron hook on one stick to scrape off the barquillo.
111:52 And a mesh net on the other to catch it.
111:57 This helps him reach deep into the rocks while staying away from the waves.
112:49 Accidents like his are all too common for mariscadores in Peru,
112:53 which is one of the world's top five fishing nations.
112:57 But the majority of incidents go unreported since the fishing sector is mostly informal.
113:22 >> Today, Lobato and El Grande plucked about 350 barquillos in 3 hours.
113:28 And even ate some of them fresh.
113:32 If they're in the shell, they can stay alive for a couple of days.
113:37 But mariscadors often deshell them so their load is lighter.
113:42 Pulling themselves up after a whole day of fishing is exhausting
113:47 and takes the most stamina.
114:05 Once the men are back in Warme,
114:09 they try to sell the barquillo right away to wholesalers.
114:25 Juan also delivers barquillos to local fish markets.
114:29 He can make up to 500 soles a week
114:31 or about 136 dollars depending on his haul.
114:35 In this part of Peru,
114:36 that could pay for weeks worth of groceries for a family of four.
114:45 Juan's family also runs a seafood restaurant that serves ceviche,
114:50 the national dish of Peru.
114:53 It's usually a mixture of raw seafood and fish with onions and citrus juice.
115:00 But restaurants in Warme are known for making it with only shellfish.
115:07 Foodies from all over the world travel here to try the famous version of
115:36 ceviche.
115:36 And while this is a local treat found in every corner of Warme,
115:42 mariscadores like Juan feel forgotten.
115:57 There are other jobs in the area in mining and agriculture.
116:01 But El Grande and Lobato say shellfish hunting is the most lucrative for them
116:06 right now.
116:44 Killar Road deep in the Himalayas is one of the most dangerous in the
116:51 world.
116:51 One reckless turn could send drivers hurtling down nearly 11,000 ft Still,
117:17 every summer Ankur Rawat makes several trips delivering basic supplies to remote villages along
117:25 this perilous route.
117:28 It connects the rest of India to the isolated region of Pangi Valley,
117:33 which is cut off for nearly 6 months of the year
117:36 because of heavy snow.
117:44 But sometimes trucks break down along the way, leaving drivers stranded for days.
117:50 So, what does it take to navigate these heavy-duty trucks on this deadly path?
117:57 We rode along with Ankur through the mountains for 3 days to find out.
118:05 Ankur lives in the village of Palhoon with his wife Savita and their children.
118:11 He never really knows what the weather will be,
118:14 so he packs plenty of blankets.
118:20 They sit down for a family dinner before Ankur sets off.
118:33 He first picks up the truck from a private parking lot
118:36 that rents them out.
118:39 This one has a power steering
118:41 and a 5600cc engine ideal for driving through the mountains.
119:09 >> Anku will make a few pit stops on this 107-mi journey.
119:14 First, he'll travel about 10 mi from his home to a warehouse in Chamba
119:18 to pick up food rations.
119:21 Then, he'll pass through several small towns and go through Sach Pass,
119:25 the highest point on Killar Road, before reaching his destination,
119:30 the district of Pangi Valley.
119:34 Today, Anku's loading 100-lb bags of wheat provided by the government to sustain India's
119:41 most isolated regions.
119:44 His truck can carry up to 12 tons.
119:47 But any more than that, and it could topple over.
119:53 He always stops at this local temple along the way.
120:12 >> >> The truck can hold up to 250 L of diesel.
120:17 But there are hardly any gas stations along the route.
120:33 The terrain starts off pretty smooth.
120:37 But as the truck goes uphill, it gets rough.
120:42 And his speed drops below 10 mph.
120:46 At this point, the road is only 10 ft wide.
120:52 And there's barely room for two cars to drive next to each other.
120:57 So, when another vehicle approaches, Anku needs to carefully reverse,
121:02 sometimes by hundreds of yards.
121:13 Luckily, he's traveling with truck conductor Muhammad Nisar Mughal,
121:18 who jumps out and guides Anku around blind spots and dangerous turns.
121:35 >> >> There are no guardrails to prevent them from veering off.
121:47 In July 2022, a Jeep rolled into a gorge, killing five people.
121:53 And in 2023, seven people died after their vehicle was hit by a landslide
121:58 on this route.
122:09 But after years of experience as a trucker, Anku isn't easily intimidated.
122:24 All the traditional rules of the road don't really apply.
122:28 Truck drivers communicate with hand signals,
122:31 which becomes important during moments of congestion like this.
122:43 They also use pressure horns, which are illegal in India.
122:49 But Anku says they need them for safety reasons.
122:59 Anku doesn't wear seat belt, either, even though under Indian law, he's required to.
123:06 He says for this type of driving, they can do more harm than good,
123:10 as they restrict the driver from leaning over.
123:16 But stats on semi-truck accidents show
123:18 that drivers are more likely to survive
123:21 if they buckle up.
123:22 In this state alone,
123:24 trucks and buses accounted for 12% of all fatal crashes in 2022.
123:31 Landslides and snowfall have also weakened this road structure,
123:35 forming dishes and piles of debris.
123:39 So, the government hires contractors to keep repairing it.
123:45 Killar Road started off
123:46 as a footpath with narrow trails carved by shepherds
123:50 and traders who were trying to reach the remote Pangi Valley.
123:55 Legend has it that residents of Chamba fled to the hidden region to escape
124:00 Mughal invaders.
124:02 Others believe that in the 16th century,
124:05 the king of Chamba banished criminals to this isolated region.
124:10 These days, Killar Road is used mainly by tourists, bikers seeking an adrenaline rush,
124:17 truckers, and local residents.
124:21 After about 8 to 9 hours of driving, the men pull over.
124:32 They make a fire to start cooking with groceries they brought from home.
124:36 But even during dinner,
124:37 they stay vigilant in case they're confronted by wild animals or thieves.
124:56 There are no hotels for miles, so they sleep in the truck's cabin.
125:16 The next day, they start driving at the crack of dawn.
125:20 Killar Road gets even more treacherous
125:23 and spectacular as trucks pass through waterfalls
125:29 and incredibly tight spaces.
125:37 Vehicles along this route often run into mechanical problems.
125:41 This truck carrying grains to Pangi Valley broke down after the gearbox stopped working.
125:47 The mechanic says the nearest store for car parts is about 180 miles away.
126:09 >> >> The whole process will take four days
126:11 and the truck will just stay here until
126:13 then.
126:17 Anku and his team carry on with their journey.
126:28 At around midday, they stop at a local dhaba for a quick bite.
126:37 These cafes cater to truck drivers.
126:41 The people who run them, like Lakshman Sharma,
126:43 understand how hard it is to drive around here.
126:57 But even these cafes close down once it starts snowing around October.
127:14 While Anku's job is an essential service,
127:17 he only makes about 10,000 rupees a month.
127:20 That's about $4 US a day.
127:23 Enough to buy a few pounds of rice and lentils in India.
127:32 He could make about 25,000 rupees a month
127:35 as a personal driver in Delhi
127:37 or Bombay.
127:38 But his heart belongs here in the Himalayas.
127:41 And he wants the whole world to know how beautiful these mountains are.
127:50 So he vlogs in the side.
127:52 He has about 50,000 followers and counting on YouTube.
128:22 But the most treacherous part of this route is getting through Sach Pass.
128:28 At nearly 14,500 ft,
128:31 Sach Pass is one of the highest navigable places in the state of Himachal
128:35 Pradesh.
128:36 Drivers are advised not to stop at the top for more than 5 minutes
128:40 because there's so little oxygen in the air.
128:44 The road through here is even more narrow, barely more than 8 ft wide.
128:51 So, Uncle needs to be extremely mindful when navigating the steep slope.
129:24 It takes him about 3 to 4 hours to go through this 9-mi stretch.
130:06 After they're through, Uncle recaps the journey for his followers.
130:19 Killar is among 106 villages in Pangi Valley,
130:23 which has a total population of just 18,000 people.
130:33 Almost 200 trucks head there every summer carrying food, medicine, and other basic supplies.
130:41 They're stored at this warehouse for the winter,
130:44 and residents buy them at a subsidized rate set by the government.
130:54 As soon as they're done unloading, Anku and his colleagues hit the road.
131:02 Along the way, they pass by a nomadic community called the Gujjars.
131:10 For Anku, catching up with them over a cup of tea has become a
131:13 ritual.
131:18 Even though driving through these mountains is a part of Anku's identity,
131:27 the job has worn him down.
131:46 But, he still yearns for the day he can truly enjoy the breathtaking nature
131:51 around him.
132:17 This pile of dust came from one of the most valuable emerald mines in
132:21 the world.
132:23 Hundreds of people scavenge through waste by hand to uncover a few tiny stones.
132:42 Vanadium, it's worth the risk.
132:45 She used her last big score to pay off her debts
132:48 and buy a home.
132:49 But she hasn't found anything valuable in a year.
132:55 Just a few miles away,
132:57 commercial operations backed by foreign investors say they find emeralds every hour.
133:03 Some sell for a fortune.
133:06 >> Retail a stone like this could go for about $500,000.
133:10 >> So, what happens when foreign investors take over a $150 million industry?
133:20 And can local miners gain a piece of it back?
133:28 Emeralds form when hydrothermal fluids collect and mix beryllium with chromium or vanadium.
133:35 The elements crystallize in deposits and form the storied green gems.
133:42 But Colombia has a secret ingredient.
133:45 It's one of the few places on Earth where emeralds form in shale instead
133:49 of igneous rock.
133:51 Shale contains the ingredients for emeralds,
133:53 but it also creates byproducts like sulfur and pyrite.
133:58 The sulfur absorbs some of the iron that would normally go into an emerald.
134:03 Less iron means a more saturated green color.
134:07 And for emerald buyers, color is king.
134:11 >> Diamonds have been out there for a long time.
134:13 Color stone is now another different league of valuation of stones. >> >> 57
134:23 around 35,000 per carat.
134:26 >> Buyers around the world covet these emeralds,
134:30 but the profit is rarely seen by those who live around the mines.
134:36 This is Muzo.
134:38 Miners have fought over the town's emeralds for centuries.
134:43 Some line up as early
134:44 as 3:00 a.m. for what's known
134:46 as the voladora.
134:57 Lidian is a guaquero, or guaquera in her case.
135:01 She's an informal miner, sort of like a prospector during the California gold rush.
135:22 But to have a shot at finding something,
135:25 you need to be ready to run.
135:47 Lidian claims her spot and digs for treasure the size of a pebble.
135:58 This debris comes from the nearby Puerto Arturo mine,
136:02 which is backed by US investors.
136:59 >> The oldest guaqueros remember
137:01 when mine runoff flowed through this river
137:04 and finds were more common.
137:08 But environmental regulations and modernized excavation put a stop to that.
137:18 Lidian spent 4 hours digging and sifting.
137:40 >> >> These small stones are probably worth less than $25 each.
137:47 Voladoras happen sporadically.
137:49 So her next opportunity won't be for another few weeks.
138:59 >> >> But the more formal and modern the mines become,
139:02 the less that's left for the guaqueros.
139:05 And the fight to control Colombia's emeralds has raged for generations.
139:12 In the mid-20th century, the Colombian government tried to nationalize the mines.
139:17 But the remote area proved impossible to control.
139:22 So in the 1970s, the government leased titles to local leaders called dons.
139:28 Hoping that collecting royalties would be easier than direct management.
139:33 >> This is in the middle of the Colombian mountains.
139:35 You feel that you are in in a completely different country
139:38 and it's very isolated.
139:40 That made elites, local elites,
139:42 regional elites able to basically hold power
139:46 that was not attached to a creation of a central state.
139:50 >> The dons were locals, some even former guaqueros.
139:54 They won loyalty by letting their miners pocket and sell small emeralds.
139:59 As long as they didn't get caught taking too much.
140:02 >> These were people who accumulate a lot of power
140:05 and power that could become violent in many ways.
140:08 But at the same time they will become the ones
140:10 that who will provide jobs
140:12 and economic benefits to the population.
140:17 >> This power made the dons rich.
140:20 But it cost thousands of lives.
140:23 Beginning in 1965, countless messy fights erupted between dons, illegal miners, paramilitaries,
140:30 and drug traffickers in a series of conflicts known as the Green Wars.
140:37 Fighting dragged on until a ceasefire in 1990.
140:43 >> It was basically an agreement of not killing each other.
140:46 For the most part, when I went in the early 2000s,
140:49 many people were saying, "Oh, the peace is holding here."
140:52 >> By the 2010s, sustained peace had attracted the eye of international investors.
140:58 And control of the mines shifted from the dons to foreign companies with deep
141:06 pockets.
141:06 But even this didn't come without conflict.
141:09 In the past decade,
141:10 miners in Muzo have repeatedly clashed with an American-backed company over access to emeralds.
141:17 And in late 2024, tension spiked again.
141:21 In November, the voladora was suspended, and guaquéros protested by blocking roads.
141:31 And forcing their way onto mine property.
141:35 In January, the governor of the Department of Boyacá met with mine owners
141:39 and local leaders to discuss improving conditions for the guaquéros,
141:44 like formalizing the voladora and prioritizing local labor and goods.
141:54 But at the time of publishing, there hasn't been a boladora for 3 months.
142:04 However, locals say outside investment has brought benefits as well.
142:10 Just a few kilometers away from Muzo as the crow flies,
142:13 but nearly a day's journey by bumpy roads,
142:17 lies one of the biggest emerald mines in Colombia.
142:23 This is the Cosquez mine.
142:27 Fura Gems, a company based in Dubai, acquired a majority stake in 2017.
142:34 The company poured $150 million into modernizing and expanding the vast tunnels.
142:44 Today, Fura exports half a million carats annually.
142:48 Just 10 years ago, this mine looked very different.
142:54 Tunnels were narrow and miners pushed around small quantities of ore by hand.
143:01 >> When we came, it was hardly like a mine of a 1 by
143:04 1 m.
143:06 And right now, we are standing where by 4 by 4.
143:10 Even your car can pass through this mine.
143:14 This is going to be the largest mine of emerald in the world.
143:22 >> But Fura's investment means there's less and less available for locals.
143:28 Like these women, known as artisanal tunnel miners.
143:48 They do things the old way.
143:51 Smaller tunnels, limited equipment, and more dangerous conditions.
143:59 Many artisanal miners have applied for an official mining title to legitimize their claim.
144:04 A process the National Mining Agency says it's made easier to access.
144:23 >> >> But the pieces enable Fura to thrive hasn't helped small-scale miners financially.
144:30 Yaneth might go all year without making any profit.
144:42 >> When you see the value of the price
144:44 that a very good emerald can have in the market,
144:47 it's not something that like most of these towns will see
144:52 as their income in a lifetime.
145:01 >> But for the 500 workers Fura employs,
145:03 the recent foreign investment has been life-changing.
145:13 >> >> Some, like Carmenza, were happy to give up artisanal tunnel mining.
146:00 >> >> The hunt for green starts with a hunt for white.
146:09 Calcite.
146:09 Even valuable emeralds are relatively small.
146:12 So calcite veins, in which the gems often form,
146:15 are a signal to miners to look closely.
146:35 >> >> If the area is promising, miners clear away the rock and add supporting material.
146:42 Then, it's time to get up close.
146:51 This is the most exhausting part of the job.
146:58 But today, Carmenza's work is rewarded.
147:05 And just like the guaqueros,
147:06 miners can't beat a trusty metal bowl for catching loose gems.
147:19 But one big difference compared to Nidian is that anything Carmenza finds,
147:24 she promptly puts into a lock box.
147:27 Supervisors even check her mask and boots for smuggled gems.
147:32 Workers at Fura are paid with a salary, not emeralds.
147:38 Carmenza says it's still exciting to find one even
147:41 though she can't take it home.
147:56 Back in 2018, the washing process looked similar to what the guaqueros do by
148:03 hand.
148:03 Now, it's on a whole other level.
148:10 Optical sorters equipped with cameras and ultraviolet lights detect and redirect emeralds.
148:21 But meticulous washing means there's little left over for guaqueros like Nidian.
148:28 In fact, Muzo doesn't provide debris for the voladora.
148:32 It says it uses leftover shell for road maintenance and infrastructure around the mine.
149:32 >> >> It's a steady job in a place without many other options.
149:37 But most of the money generated from emerald mining doesn't stay in the communities
149:41 around Cosquez or Muzo.
149:45 >> Most of the profit, of course,
149:47 is being made by the owners of the mines,
149:49 but it's also being made internationally for those who trade the emeralds.
149:53 And those profits never touch the regions where the emeralds are produced.
149:58 >> Each year, Colombia exports about 130 to 150 million dollars worth of emeralds.
150:07 One of the top buyers is the US.
150:11 >> Demand for emeralds is increasing,
150:12 and people are buying from all corners of the world.
150:15 People think, "Oh, you own a mine, it's easy."
150:17 It's tons of headaches.
150:20 >> Michael invested in a mine in Colombia to source the quality of gems
150:23 he's after.
150:25 >> Of course, the bigger, the better, but we look in terms of the quality.
150:29 What's the best of the quality to have?
150:31 A lighter emerald is less valuable than a darker emerald.
150:35 Also, too dark is also not correct.
150:37 The average price per carat is anywhere from 5,000 to 35, 40,000.
150:42 >> Michael sells emeralds wholesale to jewelers >> >> like Tiffany.
150:48 And he says emeralds he sold have shown up on the red carpet
150:52 and at royal weddings.
150:54 >> Without Muzo entering in 2009, without Fura coming in 2017,
151:00 I wouldn't think to be involved in mining.
151:05 >> For Michael, the peace
151:06 and modernization brought by foreign investors has been a welcome change.
151:12 >> The American company coming in to buy the mine, it cleaned up the area.
151:19 Peace, not fighting, is the best thing.
151:23 Me as a businessman is about buying the beautiful gems Colombia produces
151:27 and bringing it to the world.
151:28 That's the passion I have.
151:29 There's an excitement and a passion to this green stone for me
151:32 and my family.
151:35 >> Fura shares this excitement.
151:37 The company says it plans to invest over 100 million dollars more in Colombia,
151:42 and it extended its mining license to 2050.
151:48 While the industry has modernized in many ways, it hasn't changed.
151:53 The cycle of exploitation dates back 500 years.
151:59 In the 16th century,
152:00 Spanish conquistadors forced indigenous people and enslaved Africans to work the mines.
152:07 The Spanish coveted valuable deposits,
152:09 and lavish emeralds made their way to crowns and jewelry around the world.
152:16 Since then, the mines have changed hands countless times.
152:20 There has been peace and times of intense fighting,
152:24 but the real money has always been made by those at the top.
152:30 >> For the most part, those at the top,
152:32 those who are the owners of the mines
152:34 or the traders in the international markets
152:37 or the users,
152:38 don't care about those disposable populations.
152:42 They can always change.
152:43 They are not getting rich,
152:45 but there will always be people in need of engaging in these economies to
152:49 be able to live
152:50 if they have no other economic options.
153:24 >> >> La última buena fue en diciembre de 15 millones.
153:30 De ahí para acá no hemos no hemos conseguido nada bueno.
153:33 Nada.
153:39 Es por eso tú siempre vas a ver que en mi casa hay muchas
153:43 yerbas.
153:44 Así como las las piedras, las gemas.
153:50 >> >> Cada una tiene un una propiedad.
153:54 Entonces la esmeralda en general es una piedra de poder.
153:59 Es una piedra que da temperamento, que da fuerza.
154:04 Que da >> >> que da salud.
154:10 La esmeralda por ser relacionada con el color verde es el color de la
154:13 salud,
154:14 de la abundancia, de la prosperidad.
154:21 O sea, yo sentirme orgullosa de decir soy de Muso por lo que realmente
154:26 somos,
154:26 que somos personas guaqueras y el nombre y el término guaquero para nosotros es
154:31 un orgullo.
154:39 Quiero que las personas vengan y conozcan lo que realmente somos,
154:42 lo trabajadores que somos.
155:15 >> >> A small shift of this ladder can turn catastrophic in a matter of seconds.
155:30 Navigating this path safely is the responsibility of Everest climbing guides,
155:35 many of whom are ethnic Sherpas who earn 4 to 10,000 dollars per climb.
155:42 But usually, these guides can count on only one expedition per year.
155:48 The job is one of the most dangerous in the world.
155:59 And while 2023 saw the most climbers on record,
156:03 it also saw the most deaths. 332 people have been lost to Everest in
156:10 the last century.
156:11 Over a third of them were mountain guides.
156:18 It's 2:00 a.m. at base camp,
156:20 and Furba Wangchu Sherpa is leading a team of guides
156:23 and climbers of the world's tallest mountain.
156:42 >> >> Furba Wangchu has touched Everest's peak 14 times already.
157:34 >> >> He begins every climb with a puja ceremony,
157:38 praying for safe passage and paying respect to the mountain.
157:42 Even with his success rate, he never underestimates the deadly risks.
158:05 Over the next several weeks,
158:07 this group of 16 will climb for hours on end in total darkness,
158:12 face the threat of avalanches and storms, and cross deadly passageways.
158:18 Phurba Wangchu and his team of experienced guides are their best chance of making
158:23 it to the summit
158:24 and surviving.
158:26 >> It gives you a lot of confidence.
158:28 You know, when your Sherpa has 15, 16 summits,
158:32 like some of these Sherpas here,
158:33 when you're at high altitude and you're in those situations, and they tell you,
158:37 >> >> you know, it's okay, it's going to be okay,
158:39 it's very reassuring that they've summited so many times.
158:44 >> It's more than just mentally reassuring.
158:46 On the mountain, the choices guides make directly affect whether a climber lives The
158:58 next morning,
158:59 another group of climbers is gearing up for its expedition.
159:07 >> It takes a bit of time, not to put it,
159:09 but it's safe to your food on the minus 30 or 50 sometimes.
159:16 >> Near base camp at 5,364 m, climbing guides lead a vital training course.
159:26 Without this refresher, climbers won't know how to work with their specific expedition team.
159:33 The guides are using the limited time they have today to review how best
159:37 to handle steep inclines
159:38 and to teach this team how to problem solve on the spot.
160:03 >> Sorry.
160:03 >> The course is one of the services included in a mountain guide's cost.
160:08 Guides only work with experienced high altitude mountaineers, a requirement of the Nepalese government.
160:15 But that doesn't mean the climbers are ready to brave Everest's extreme climate yet.
160:23 >> I think if you are talking about high altitude mountaineering,
160:26 it's important to do this, you know, at least every 6 months.
160:32 It keeps your body ready for, I think, lack of oxygen.
160:39 I came here by helicopter,
160:40 which is not probably it was not the best idea.
160:42 So, the first day it was quite hard.
160:46 >> It will be Ismael's second attempt at summiting Everest.
160:51 He confronted the danger that awaits his new team over a decade ago.
160:56 >> We almost reached 8,500,
160:59 but because of the very unfavorable weather conditions had to return.
161:04 So, the summit was very close.
161:06 So, after 11 years I'm back.
161:11 >> Ismail averted catastrophe in his first summit attempt, but not everyone is so lucky.
161:18 When climbers are critically injured,
161:20 guides have to be prepared to switch an expedition to a rescue
161:24 and provide emergency relief.
161:28 In May 2023, a team of Sherpa guides rescued a climber from Everest's death
161:35 zone.
161:35 >> >> Over the course of 6 hours,
161:37 the guides carried him on their backs down to Camp 3.
161:46 Since the 2019 season, as a safety measure,
161:49 Nepal has required every climber to be accompanied by at least one climbing guide.
161:55 And choosing a local guide has its distinct benefits on Everest.
161:59 Many of these mountain guides are Sherpas,
162:02 an ethnic group native to the slopes of Mount Everest.
162:05 >> The conquering team was composed of 20 Americans aided by Sherpa tribesmen who
162:10 acted as carriers.
162:12 >> Though the term Sherpa is informally used as a catchall for Everest guides,
162:17 the Sherpa people have been closely involved in mountaineering here since the very first
162:22 Everest expeditions.
162:25 Their tissues use oxygen more efficiently
162:28 and preserve muscle energy better than people from lowlands.
162:32 That's one of the reasons Sherpa guides can assist their climbers with heavy loads
162:37 >> >> without risking
162:38 as much physical strain.
162:40 >> I've got a very good Sherpa, uh you know,
162:42 and he carries he carries uh a lot.
162:46 So, about 10 kg I would carry, but they would carry three times that.
162:55 >> And it's indispensable, especially here at the Khumbu Icefall,
163:00 where three Sherpas lost their lives in 2023.
163:10 At an elevation of 5,486 m,
163:15 the team slowly makes its way through shifting glaciers.
163:49 The group is also relying on the work
163:51 that locals known as Icefall Doctors did months earlier.
163:55 These specialized climbers establish the safest route to the top of Everest every season.
164:02 A separate fee of $600 per expedition member goes to these Icefall Doctors to
164:08 use the ladders and ropes they set up.
164:18 But even with a clear path,
164:20 climbers are still in danger of crevasses opening and closing, and even unexpected avalanches.
164:49 >> >> Considering the danger, it's no surprise
164:52 that mountain guides are one of the biggest expenses in summiting Everest.
164:57 Climbers pay as much
164:58 as $100,000 for the expedition
165:02 and a chance at standing at the top of the world.
165:09 For each of these climbs,
165:10 guides certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations can charge agencies $10,000.
165:19 Less experienced climbing guides make only $4,000 per climb.
165:24 The agency Furba Wangchu works with, Makalu Adventure,
165:28 says it pays guides an additional $1,500 for every successful summit.
165:34 >> I think it's okay for for what it is.
165:37 Um it's okay and you know,
165:40 the Nepalese government have to make money from it.
165:42 The Sherpas have to have to make money and you know,
165:45 it would be an insult I think
165:47 if we were just come
165:48 and and pay hardly anything
165:50 and and summit the mountain.
165:53 >> The majority of summits occur in the spring season,
165:55 so most guides are hired for only one expedition, limiting their yearly income.
166:02 Furba Wangchu says guides don't see enough money to justify continuously risking their lives.
166:31 >> >> Guides also have to pay for their own gear,
166:33 an investment of as much as $7,000.
166:38 That includes clothing, boots, and backpacks that must withstand extreme conditions on the mountain.
166:46 The down suit alone can cost $2,000
166:50 and some gear needs to be replaced every few years.
166:54 Oftentimes, working as a guide in the increasingly commercialized Everest industry comes out of
166:59 necessity.
167:31 To stay afloat, Furba Wangchu takes on other work.
167:43 >> >> This is common for many local guides who struggle to make ends
167:46 meet from a job
167:47 that routinely puts their life in danger.
168:01 That's one of the reasons Dawa Geljen Sherpa quit his career
168:04 as a climbing guide.
168:30 Like Dawa Geljen, Furba Wangchu openly questions whether the risks are really worth it
168:36 and he thinks it's a question more Sherpa guides will ask.
168:46 >> If for Babu Wangchu is right,
168:48 a declining number of expert mountain guides will coincide with the growing Everest tourism
168:54 industry.
168:56 In spring 2023, Nepal issued a record number of 478 permits to summit Mount
169:03 Everest.
169:05 This broke the record set 2 years earlier when it issued 409 permits.
169:11 But as the industry grows, so too does the frequency of fatalities.
169:17 Spring 2023 saw 18 deaths, 15 confirmed and three presumed,
169:23 making it the deadliest season for climbers on Everest.
169:27 Six of those lost were Sherpa guides.
169:32 At the same time,
169:33 Nepal is seeing a growing job market with locals increasingly choosing other professions.
170:24 >> >> The rising death toll on Everest has put more pressure on the
170:28 Nepalese government to manage tourism on the mountain.
170:32 In 2025, it plans to increase the price of climbing permits for foreigners to
170:40 $15,000 up from $11,000.
170:42 The government says the salaries of high-altitude guides and workers will also increase.
170:50 This could be a beacon of hope for some younger locals who still see
170:54 a future in being a mountain guide,
170:57 like Shashank Nima Sherpa Rai.
171:24 Unlike Furba Wangchu, Shashank is able to pursue his education.
171:30 Still, the mountain compels him.
171:57 But the truth is that the future for guides on Everest is unclear.
172:46 >> These oil wells are stuck in the past.
172:54 And for over 100 years now,
172:58 this has been the most lucrative job in this remote part of Indonesia,
173:03 where the land has been ruined by toxic leaks.
173:10 Workers risk their lives to extract the little that's left.
173:23 But they don't even own that oil.
173:26 They're forced to sell to the state company,
173:29 which locals say barely pays them enough to get by.
173:36 So, why do these toxic oil wells still exist?
173:42 And how did thousands of people end up trapped working in them?
173:55 Pony learned to extract oil when he was just 19.
174:00 Now he is teaching his nephew.
174:10 Many of the 700 oil wells near his village in East Java were built
174:14 by the Dutch in the late 1800s.
174:21 Nowadays, locals own most of them, but only about 200 still work.
174:30 Pony always prays with his colleagues before starting his day.
174:49 The basic tools they rely on are improvised and rustic.
174:58 Like this engine they've removed from an old dump truck.
175:10 They have to step on gas
175:11 and brake pedals to dip
175:12 and lift this pipe
175:13 that goes in.
175:25 It's called a bailer.
175:26 It has little holes in the side to let oil in and out.
175:34 They need enough rope to lower the bailer all the way down into the
175:37 oil reserve.
175:41 At this location, the crude is found about 1,000 ft below.
175:46 A depth almost equal to the height of Indonesia's tallest building.
175:52 When the bailer hits the bottom, the holes open up inside, letting oil in.
175:57 Then, when the rope starts tugging up, the holes close,
176:01 trapping the oil inside the tube.
176:05 Pony uses this heavy iron rod to guide the bailer down.
176:13 Sometimes accidents happen.
176:26 >> The whole process is messy.
176:30 Pony says he sometimes wears a mask to protect himself from the liquid
176:34 that sprays out.
176:39 But what he fears most is a possible explosion.
176:44 The old equipment can overheat and catch fire.
176:47 With all this oil around, an open flame can quickly spark an inferno.
176:53 In June, a fire at another well in Sumatra killed four workers.
177:00 It's also hard to maintain these wells over time.
177:04 They're too narrow and far too deep for people to crawl in
177:08 and fix from inside.
177:28 Sometimes mud clogs up the well and prevents the bailer from reaching the oil.
177:44 The extracted oil runs off into these pools.
177:52 In its crude form, it's mixed with mud and water.
177:56 The oil floats to the top in a matter of minutes,
177:59 and workers scoop it out.
178:03 Pony's nephew, Joko Mulyono, helps.
178:13 They use a vacuum to transfer the oil onto the car.
178:18 About 200 years ago, before these oil wells existed,
178:23 crude naturally oozed out of the ground here.
178:26 Locals gathered small amounts to light lamps and make medicine.
178:31 But in 1887, the Dutch who colonized Indonesia set up a large-scale drilling operation.
178:39 Their oil company, Royal Dutch,
178:41 managed many wells and refineries in East Java
178:45 and brought in workers who were paid low wages to help work for them.
178:50 As demand for oil boomed around the world, drilling in Indonesia expanded, too,
178:57 and this land became unrecognizable.
179:01 The Dutch left after Indonesia gained independence in 1945.
179:07 But the oil that had leaked from the wells had already polluted the surrounding
179:11 earth and water,
179:13 making farming, the work that had sustained locals long before these wells existed,
179:19 much harder.
179:21 Extracting oil became the most lucrative work,
179:24 but there wasn't nearly as much as before.
179:27 When Pony started this job in 2004,
179:31 they could draw up to 900 gallons from this well in a day.
179:35 Now it takes him 1 week to get 55 gallons.
179:39 There's more underground, but the well is too shallow to reach it,
179:44 and Pony doesn't have the machinery to drill deeper.
179:57 Even though workers own the land,
179:59 the state-owned company Pertamina possesses the right to all the oil underground.
180:04 So, by law, workers have to sell their oil to the company through a
180:08 local government enterprise.
180:11 But they often make more money selling it to off-the-radar refineries instead,
180:16 where Pony can make two times what Pertamina would pay.
180:21 Latest estimates from 2014 found
180:24 that the state company was losing nearly $11 million annually to workers who sell
180:30 their oil independently.
180:36 Even after selling on the black market,
180:38 workers still only make about $12 a week,
180:43 which is not a lot even in this part of Indonesia.
180:47 That's why most of the workers bring lunch from home
180:51 and share it with the others.
181:03 Pony pays his nephew Joko an additional $6 weekly to drive the oil to
181:08 the refinery.
181:17 That's become its own profession.
181:44 Joko has been at it for 16 years now.
181:52 He used to make around 10 trips a day,
181:54 each for a different well owner,
181:57 but that's dropped down to just four or five on a busy day.
182:23 >> Pony's neighbor Jainuri processes the oil at this artisanal refinery using traditional techniques.
182:40 He works 13-hour days carrying 20-lb containers filled with crude up
182:47 and down these hills.
182:58 He dumps them into these 60-gallon drums.
183:13 First, Jainuri lights this underground furnace.
183:24 He'll use it to heat the crude in this drum.
183:27 He fills it halfway to give it space to boil.
183:31 It has to reach at least 570° F before it starts evaporating,
183:37 which is key to refining it.
183:40 The vapor comes up through these pipes, which are cooled with water.
183:45 That turns the vapor back into a liquid.
184:02 They bring that refined fuel to the boiler
184:04 and heat it once more until it evaporates back through these pipes.
184:10 Jainuri repeats this process three
184:13 or four times to get different types of fuel like gasoline
184:16 and diesel.
184:32 All day long, workers here are breathing these fumes, a combination of nitrogen, methane,
184:39 and carbon monoxide, which can cause cancer and brain damage.
184:44 And if the gases get trapped underground, everything could explode.
184:57 And an entire day's work only fetches about one drum of diesel.
185:02 That's about enough to fill a car three times.
185:11 Refineries are also required to sell their oil to Pertamina,
185:15 but many sell at small black markets like this one.
185:23 Locals buy oil for $2.27 per gallon.
185:28 That's double what Pertamina would pay for it,
185:31 although the price fluctuates based on global oil prices.
185:36 The quality of the artisanal oil is inferior,
185:38 so locals mostly use it to fuel the engines in their wells.
185:43 Some also use it in their cars
185:45 because the nearest gas station is 60 mi away.
185:49 That trip would cost them more in gas than they make in a day.
185:55 Indonesia has enough oil reserves underground to power the entire country for at least
186:01 4 years.
186:03 Still, it imports about half of the oil it consumes.
186:07 And these artisanal workers aren't allowed to dig new wells on their own land.
186:13 They could get all their oil extraction rights revoked.
186:17 Instead, they have to allow large companies to drill on their property,
186:21 a law the country passed in 2001 to boost foreign investment
186:26 and ramp up oil drilling.
186:28 That year, ExxonMobil discovered an oil field nearby
186:32 and soon signed on to help Pertamina develop it,
186:36 buying out 3,000 small landowners first.
186:41 The plant started extracting in 2008 and now produces about 200,000 barrels annually,
186:48 about a quarter of the country's oil output.
186:51 But locals say what they really need from the government is funding for better
186:56 machinery so they can develop their fields themselves.
187:14 So workers find ways to make do on their own
187:17 because they say they have to.
187:20 They keep digging more wells like these to tap
187:23 as many shallow reserves
187:24 as they can.
187:46 According to some estimates,
187:48 output from illegally dug wells is outpacing production at the legal ones by about
187:53 10 barrels a day.
187:59 Meanwhile, locals feel trapped in work that's damaged their land
188:04 and now seems like their only option for a stable income.
188:38 Poni's family grew mangoes here for generations.
188:42 But for the last few years, his crops have kept dying.
188:59 Still, he's grateful for every drop of oil he can get.
189:03 And that it's made it possible for his daughter to go to school
189:07 and to have a better life than he did.
189:42 Sand is the most mined material in the world.
189:48 And in this part of Africa,
189:50 miners like Yona Elvis dive up to 300 times a day wearing little to
189:55 no clothes,
189:57 scooping out buckets that are 33 lbs. 60% of the sand used in concrete
190:15 around the world comes from riverbeds like this one in Cameroon.
190:20 And global demand for it has tripled in the last two decades.
190:26 Satellite images from China show how it has changed the shape of a major
190:30 body of water.
190:32 And now experts say sand is being extracted much faster than it can be
190:37 naturally replaced.
190:42 So, how can the world avoid a sand crisis?
190:47 And what does it mean for people like Elvis who rely on it to
190:51 survive?
190:54 Yona Elvis's home in southwestern Cameroon is made from the same sand he mines
191:00 every day.
191:01 He lives with his family and pet monkey Curtis.
191:20 His home is just a short walk away from the river quarry.
191:32 There, he meets up with his diving partner Njombi.
191:36 They can look out for each other in case of emergencies.
191:53 >> The Wouri is one of Cameroon's largest rivers, flowing for nearly a hundred miles.
191:59 It's known as the river of prawns,
192:02 but fishermen are seeing a decline due to sand mining.
192:11 >> >> Once they reach the deepest part,
192:14 Mchombi pushes the stick into the ground to anchor the boat.
192:21 Elvis jumps in wearing nothing
192:23 but skin-tight shorts to swim more easily in the water.
192:31 Then, he uses a steel bucket to scoop up sand from the river floor.
192:39 The water is so murky, Elvis can't see anything, even if he wore goggles.
193:08 After 12 years, he says he's mastered the art of controlling his breath
193:13 and conserving his energy.
193:38 Elvis and Djombie take turns scooping out water that fills the canoe.
193:45 After 2 hours of diving and dumping, their exhaustion begins to show.
193:55 Locals say deaths are common here.
193:59 But because this is an unregulated profession,
194:02 there are no official records on injuries or fatalities.
194:07 Elvis nearly drowned once while helping a new diver.
194:30 By the end of Elvis's 4-hour shift,
194:33 he has excavated 9 tons of wet sand.
194:37 That's equal to the weight of two African elephants.
194:42 His boss, who owns the canoe,
194:44 will sell this sand to local contractors
194:48 and pay each of them about $12 a day.
194:51 It's more than Elvis can make from fishing,
194:55 but it's barely enough to afford three meals a day.
194:59 Elvis and his family of four scrape by on this salary.
195:18 But some people are in the line of work for other reasons,
195:21 like miner Konja Simon, who views it as a sport.
195:26 He competes in local sand mining tournaments
195:29 and says he's earned the title of champion.
195:36 Ngannou spends 30 minutes exercising every morning and even runs to the quarry.
195:45 His role model is Africa's first heavyweight UFC champion, Francis Ngannou.
195:52 Today, he's seen as a local hero in this region.
195:57 Someone who escaped a life of poverty to become one of the best MMA
196:02 fighters in the world.
196:16 Meanwhile, Ngannou continues to plunge 23 ft underwater to test his strength
196:24 and earn enough cash for him,
196:26 his wife, and two kids.
196:31 Some of the sand is exported to countries like South Africa,
196:34 the Central African Republic, and even France.
196:39 But, as Cameroon is in the midst of a construction boom,
196:42 most of the sand is used locally to make concrete.
196:46 Demand for sand across the world has reached 50 billion tons per year,
196:51 enough to build a nine-story wall around the planet.
196:56 The kind found in riverbeds comes from rocks
196:59 that broke apart over millions of years
197:01 as they traveled downstream.
197:04 The coarse leftover grains are sharper and can carry more moisture than desert sand,
197:10 which makes them the perfect binding material for construction.
197:16 In 2022, the global market for construction sand was worth about 23 billion dollars.
197:23 It is expected to grow to 46.5 billion dollars by 2031.
197:29 The United States is the world's top producer.
197:33 While China is the biggest consumer of sand.
197:37 But it also produces its own.
197:40 Poyang Lake in Jiangxi province is the biggest sand mine on the planet.
197:46 Satellite images show just how much excavation has changed the northern branch of the
197:52 country's largest freshwater lake.
197:55 More than doubling its surface area from 1997 to 2019.
198:00 The lake is also a key flood outlet for the Yangtze River
198:04 and its tributaries.
198:06 All of which are mined excessively too.
198:10 All this mining is causing water levels in the lake to fall abnormally during
198:15 winter months.
198:16 Endangering aquatic animals like porpoises and populations of migratory birds.
198:24 Other countries have similar problems.
198:27 In Cambodia's Mekong River, barges scrape out more sand than can be naturally replaced.
198:34 This kind of large-scale dredging caused riverbanks to collapse twice in 2021.
198:40 >> The river becomes deeper
198:42 and the the way
198:42 that the river will flow will either be faster
198:46 or slower depending on how the shape is affected.
198:49 And that has consequences on river flows and on potential flooding or drought.
198:54 >> Dams upstream have also reduced the flow of sediment to the lower part
198:59 of the Mekong.
199:00 Experts say mining is also to blame for erosion along Cambodia's coastline.
199:06 >> Anything that we take out of the environment has an impact.
199:09 If you take the sand from rivers, that sand will not reach the coastline.
199:14 So, eventually it will lead to coastal erosion.
199:19 >> Mining is also taking a toll on local fishing villages.
199:25 Tim You Sos lives on a boat with his wife and granddaughter.
199:29 He makes a living fishing in the nearby Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers.
199:35 But he says work is tough lately
199:38 because all the dredging has disrupted the fish supply.
199:52 And because of the receding water levels, his livelihood is at stake.
200:10 But here in Cambodia's capital, sand is fueling a housing boom.
200:14 Since 2003, developers have filled in 60% of Phnom Penh lakes with sand to
200:21 create prime real estate for villas
200:23 and shopping malls.
200:25 But people who have lived
200:27 and worked on these lakes for decades now face eviction
200:31 as trucks full of sand
200:32 and gravel get closer
200:34 and closer to their homes.
200:36 >> >> Cambodia also exports sand.
200:39 UN data for the past decade shows the country sent $27 million worth to
200:45 countries like Singapore,
200:47 Thailand, and China.
200:49 >> >> Rapid urbanization around the world is what's driving up demand.
200:55 In India, 25 to 30 people are migrating every minute from rural areas to
201:01 cities.
201:03 By 2030, the country's urban population is likely to reach 600 million.
201:09 And they will all need housing.
201:12 So, India is excavating sand, too.
201:16 Here, miners extract it from the Bek Key River using basic equipment.
201:22 It's polluting the water and destroying riverbeds and fish populations.
201:27 But for some, mining for sand is as valuable as finding gold,
201:32 and many work illegally in dangerous conditions because the money is worth it.
201:38 They can earn up to $15 for a boatload of sand,
201:41 which is four times the average daily wage in India.
201:46 Now, sand is being mined faster than it can be replaced through natural geological
201:52 processes.
201:55 So, some companies are now manufacturing it to help reduce the impact on rivers
202:00 and lakes.
202:01 They crush bedrock, often from old construction sites or demolition waste.
202:07 This creates particles about the same size as sand.
202:11 They are filtered and washed to remove impurities like silt or clay,
202:16 which can damage concrete.
202:18 That's why experts say manufactured sand is even better than natural sand for building.
202:24 But crushing and grinding M sand can pollute surrounding soil and water,
202:30 and it's more cost-effective because it's often produced closer to construction sites,
202:35 bringing down the cost of transportation.
202:40 But back in Cameroon, people still continue to mine from riverbeds.
203:02 After a long day of work, his muscles are sore.
203:07 So, he kicks back and relaxes with his colleagues at the local bar.
203:19 And he brightens up
203:20 when he thinks about what really motivates him to do this work.
204:05 This is jadeite, a stone that is rarer than a diamond.
204:11 And the hunt for it is so deadly,
204:14 the jewel is known as blood jade.
204:19 The hills in Myanmar's Kachin State hold nearly all of it.
204:29 Every year, dozens of miners are buried and killed by landslides.
204:35 But what really goes on here has mostly remained a mystery
204:39 because the mines are guarded by the military 24/7.
204:44 So, we had to film on a phone.
204:48 Reports suggest Chinese companies illegally operate the mines and allegedly exploit desperate workers.
205:10 >> About 90% of the jade mined here is smuggled across the border into China,
205:15 where it's considered a sacred stone.
205:20 We went to the mountains of Myanmar to find out how the hunt for
205:23 a jewel that legend says grants eternal life has killed
205:28 so many people.
205:37 Black markets usually come to life after dark
205:40 because jade is believed to shine brightest in the moonlight.
205:46 Most sales aren't documented or taxed.
205:51 But if the gem was sold legally,
205:54 Myanmar could earn an estimated $31 billion a year.
205:59 Reports suggest many buyers come from neighboring China,
206:03 even though selling to foreigners is against the law.
206:18 In the daytime, about 400,000 people work in mines in the Hpakant region in
206:24 northern Myanmar's Kachin State.
206:27 Many Chinese companies bribe officials to illegally operate here.
206:34 They dump back topsoil after picking out large stones,
206:38 and they let miners dig through it. 38-year-old Hpaunt has mined here for 7
207:05 years.
207:05 >> >> About 75% of minors here are addicted to drugs like heroin and meth.
207:11 Thawt says he'd never tried those drugs before coming here.
207:16 Now, he shoots up multiple times a day.
207:20 He says some of his Chinese bosses paid portions of his salary with free
207:25 meals and heroin.
207:27 He asked us to hide his identity because he feared his employers would retaliate.
207:42 These claims can be hard to verify
207:44 because most of the mining happening here is illegal.
207:49 Not a single mining permit has been issued since the military coup in 2021.
207:56 The region has seen violent conflict since the early 1960s.
208:03 The Kachin people, who are native to these mountains, have been fighting for independence.
208:09 They have their own army known as the KIA,
208:12 which has been battling the Myanmar Armed Forces and other ETHNIC GROUPS.
208:20 THE WAR HAS KILLED THOUSANDS of Kachin civilians in the past decade alone.
208:26 We reached out to the KIA and the Myanmar military,
208:29 but did not get a response.
208:32 The conflict has allowed lawlessness to run rampant,
208:36 as well as the illegal drug trade,
208:38 which has become a multi-billion-dollar industry across the country.
208:52 Myanmar is the world's biggest producer of opium and meth.
208:57 Drugs from here are trafficked to China and nearby countries.
209:01 The profits are fueling the Kachin war.
209:05 And jade mining is funding it, too.
209:09 Most of the jade from Myanmar gets smuggled to China,
209:12 where the stone has been thought to bring good luck
209:15 and have healing powers for millennia.
209:19 Legend says this stone could make their souls live on forever.
209:24 It has also been found alongside royals in ancient tombs.
209:30 Today, China's wealthiest wear jade as a symbol of status and power.
209:36 Chinese businesses reportedly pay Myanmar locals up to $400,000 per trip to smuggle trucks
209:43 of jade into the country.
209:46 The gem's price grew tenfold in the first decade of the 2000s.
209:51 And it's still growing exponentially, according to the most recent estimates.
209:56 There's a cheaper kind called nephrite, that's widely sold in Chinatowns around the world.
210:03 But Myanmar's Kachin State is one of the only places that has jadeite,
210:08 which is especially green and transparent.
210:11 So rare that a single bangle can sell for over $3 million.
210:16 Yeah.
210:16 Estimates have found that the Kachin mountains hold about 90% of it.
210:22 But they're hollowing out.
210:26 Miners like Shwe Taw search for what's left.
210:30 He uses a pocket light to check for a hint of green.
210:46 Dozens get buried alive or drowned because of landslides each year.
211:08 In 2020, a single landslide killed about 200 miners.
211:15 But Shwe says mining is his only option.
211:33 He came out as a transgender man 7 years ago
211:37 and has struggled to find jobs ever since.
211:44 Myanmar is one of the hardest countries to find employment for people who identify
211:49 as LGBTQ.
211:52 A nationwide law makes it legal to arrest people who openly express their gender
211:57 identity.
212:03 He says he still looked too much like a woman
212:06 when he started mining here.
212:17 Few women work in these mines.
212:19 Some have spoken out about sexual abuse by miners and soldiers.
212:27 Shwe says other men treated him well.
212:31 And today many have become close friends.
212:38 >> >> But over the years, Thant has lost many of his.
212:43 He lives in a hut in a cemetery where some of them were buried.
212:51 He moved here from a town nearly 300 miles away after his family's house
212:55 burned down.
213:03 >> >> He promised his wife and children he'd return rich and rebuild their home.
213:20 He says the drugs help numb the pain.
213:23 >>