0:00 In India, truck drivers navigate treacherous roads to deliver critical supplies.
0:05 And in the US, workers provide meals, haircuts,
0:08 and even dental care at the largest truck stop in the country.
0:13 We've traveled the globe to learn about the world's most fascinating jobs.
0:18 We'll start with the people making food consumed miles above the earth's surface.
0:23 Airplane food has a bad reputation,
0:25 but the Qatar Airways cooks are whipping up high-quality food every day.
0:32 >> Every single dish is made from scratch at the Qatar Airways catering kitchen
0:37 in Doha.
0:40 It turns out more than 200,000 fresh meals a day,
0:44 even for regional short-haul flights.
0:48 It all needs to be prepared about 48 hours before takeoff.
0:53 >> I think perhaps the biggest challenge is just ensuring
0:55 that there's consistency and
0:56 that everything runs smoothly.
0:59 >> The chefs here believe it's part of the reason the airline has been
1:02 named number one in the world for the eighth time since 2011.
1:08 This kind of cooking used to be the standard in most flights in America,
1:11 too, no matter what cabin you flew on.
1:15 But today, most US airlines don't run their own kitchens,
1:19 opting to buy from catering services instead.
1:23 So, why has economy airplane food gone from luxury to a point of ridicule
1:28 in the US?
1:30 And why do so few airlines still cook their own meals?
1:37 No workers are allowed to step foot in the kitchen without walking through this
1:41 air shower corridor first.
1:44 >> To ensure that we have no biological
1:47 or any physical contaminants go into the kitchen.
1:52 >> This is Filipe Hempis playground. 4,000 people from 38 countries at the Qatar
1:59 Aircraft Catering Company,
2:01 or QACC.
2:02 It's a part of the Qatar Airways Group.
2:05 The team develops new menus every 3 months.
2:10 All the produce is fresh.
2:13 Even though they're operating in a food desert.
2:17 They go through 30 metric tons of fruits
2:19 and vegetables daily and use custom machines to help prep them for meals.
2:25 Like this bin that can wash 12,000 peppers a day.
2:30 And this machine that peels six cantaloupes in under a minute.
2:35 Other produce like dragon fruit, strawberries, white asparagus, get a more delicate treatment.
2:43 They're peeled and carved by hand.
2:45 >> It's a big routine making almost 200,000 meals a day.
2:48 The team is rotated throughout their time working here.
2:54 >> Inside the hot kitchen, the aroma of cumin, garlic, and onions fills the air.
3:02 Chefs prepare dishes of several different cuisines from Indian to Arabic and Asian.
3:08 >> We base them mostly on the demographics of that flight.
3:12 For example, for America, we have a lot of traffic from the Indian subcontinent.
3:17 >> They use over 300 potatoes every day to make aloo tikki,
3:21 a popular street food in India.
3:24 The kitchen goes through 36,000 whole fresh eggs a week.
3:30 And another 3 and 1/2 tons of pasteurized egg whites are turned into 12,000
3:35 omelets a day.
3:38 Even the smallest change can be costly.
3:41 >> We need to ensure
3:41 that we're going to able to meet the quantities without having to make any
3:44 substitutions.
3:45 The moment we have any substitutions,
3:47 then menu cards will be affected and and things like that.
3:53 >> There's also a big emphasis on making most food from scratch.
3:58 Even for items that are often bought frozen or pre-made.
4:02 Like sausages and pasta.
4:06 >> If you're ordering ravioli from economy class, you're getting freshly made pasta,
4:11 which not many airlines do that.
4:14 >> Bread products are also prepared on site.
4:17 Bakers turn out 10,000 croissants an hour.
4:22 As well as handmade focaccias.
4:25 Pastry chefs design new desserts every quarter.
4:29 Like these chocolate brownies made from scratch.
4:33 >> We're giving this in economy and it's a homemade eggless brownie.
4:37 Tastes really good with a mousse underneath.
4:42 >> While people here handle food all day long,
4:46 taste testing is only reserved for a select few.
4:51 >> For each of our kitchens, we have a centralized tasting area.
4:54 So I'm here with Chef Harish, who's our executive chef for QACC.
4:59 Our senior chefs will taste the food, log it down, and give their comments.
5:03 If something does not pass our criteria, we redo the meals.
5:07 >> Pretty good?
5:09 >> Yeah?
5:09 You agree?
5:11 >> Qatar Airways has a total of 270 international flights leaving from Doha per day.
5:18 And on average, the airline serves 350 meals on each flight.
5:24 This facility also provides meals to other Oneworld Alliance partners
5:28 that fly out of Doha.
5:30 And to the 19 lounges >> >> at Hamad International Airport.
5:35 All the food is halal.
5:37 Prepared in accordance with Islamic dietary laws because Qatar is a Muslim country.
5:44 So for example, you won't find any pork on the menu.
5:49 But when it comes to drinks,
5:50 the airline does serve alcohol once you're up in the clouds.
5:54 Unlike some Muslim carriers like Saudia or Kuwait Airways, where it's banned.
6:02 Once each dish is finalized, it's stacked on a tray and labeled.
6:07 >> The reason we put a barcode is to ensure we have traceability for
6:10 every dish as well
6:12 as for the team on the other side to be able to easily find
6:15 what they need for assembly.
6:17 >> It also helps them track any food safety issues down the line.
6:21 >> We can trace it all the way back to the person that made it,
6:24 the day they made it, the time they made it,
6:26 and we can then further investigate if there's a need.
6:30 >> The trays are cooled for 90 minutes to prevent the growth of any
6:33 bacteria or pathogens.
6:35 And then, >> temperature is checked once again by infrared thermometer,
6:40 and the food is covered, scanned, and sent for storage.
6:44 >> It's not possible for the airline to prepare everything on the day of
6:48 the flight.
6:49 So usually, they make food in advance
6:51 and refrigerate it for 1 day at the most.
6:55 Any longer and the taste and texture could change,
6:58 especially for starchy foods like rice or pasta.
7:01 But nothing is fully frozen.
7:04 This cooling chamber is set to below 5° C
7:08 and can store 3,500 trays at a time.
7:11 A robotic arm adds and removes trays as needed across 30 levels.
7:18 In the cold kitchen, workers prepare fruit bowls, dips,
7:22 and about 12,000 sandwiches a day.
7:26 Many of these items end up on short-haul flights,
7:28 which are less than 3 hours long.
7:30 >> Peter here will request our mashed potatoes.
7:33 >> A few hours before the flight takes off,
7:36 the food trays that were stored in the chiller are brought back in for
7:41 portioning.
7:41 Workers on this line have their eyes at all times on the golden sample.
7:47 The combos are endless and change depending on the route.
7:54 The economy meals are dished up on trays and packed away.
8:00 Business class meals are temporarily portioned in these foil containers.
8:04 Flight attendants will later plate
8:06 and serve these dishes paying a lot of attention to the presentation,
8:10 which will ultimately look like this.
8:15 Qatar Airways tries to bring hints of luxury to economy too in the details.
8:21 They offer 18 meals that customers with special dietary needs can pre-order.
8:25 >> We have sort of our religious meals.
8:28 We also have our medical meals
8:29 and then we have our specific meals like child meals,
8:32 etc.
8:33 >> The culinary team has designed 50 meal choices for economy
8:37 and first class each
8:39 and 150 for business class
8:41 that are dished out based on a flight's route
8:43 and duration.
8:46 Every cabin gets real silverware.
8:50 All these items are dried, hand polished,
8:53 and assembled again ready for the next flight.
8:57 >> We're always looking at ways of to reduce single-use plastic.
9:01 We are looking at materials for a meal kits to be able to to
9:04 have less impact on the environment.
9:08 >> Qatar Airways won several awards including the Apex award for best food and beverage.
9:16 But they can't maintain high standards by only sourcing local products.
9:21 As Qatar is one of the hottest
9:23 and driest countries in the world with no lakes
9:27 or rivers.
9:28 Growing things here is hard.
9:31 >> Currently, we have more imported ingredients than than local.
9:35 However, this is something that we're trying to change.
9:39 We're working together with a lot of local farms,
9:41 fisheries to to provide some of our products.
9:44 >> That includes tomatoes, cucumbers, spinach, and bok choy.
9:52 The trays are stacked on these carts
9:54 that are rolled onto trucks
9:55 that head for the tarmac.
10:03 The trolleys are pushed onto the aircraft and locked into the galleys.
10:08 Flight attendants then work their magic.
10:11 >> We have newer generation ovens,
10:13 which allow individualization of temperature and humidity when it comes to reheating the meals.
10:21 >> Truck drivers in India provide an essential service to villagers in the Himalayas.
10:26 >> >> They transport food, water, and medicine to remote regions,
10:29 but the crucial work comes at a deadly cost.
10:34 Killar road, deep in the Himalayas,
10:37 is one of the most dangerous in the world.
10:41 One reckless turn could send drivers hurtling down nearly 11,000 ft.
11:06 Still, every summer Ankur Rawat makes several trips,
11:11 delivering basic supplies to remote villages along this perilous route.
11:18 It connects the rest of India to the isolated region of Pangi Valley,
11:23 which is cut off for nearly 6 months of the year
11:26 because of heavy snow.
11:34 But sometimes trucks break down along the way, leaving drivers stranded for days.
11:40 So, what does it take to navigate these heavy-duty trucks on this deadly path?
11:47 We rode along with Anku through the mountains for 3 days to find out.
11:55 Anku lives in the village of Palhoon with his wife Savita and their children.
12:01 He never really knows what the weather will be.
12:04 So, he packs plenty of blankets.
12:09 They sit down for a family dinner before Anku sets off.
12:23 He first picks up the truck from a private parking lot
12:26 that rents them out.
12:29 This one has a power steering and a 5600 cc engine,
12:33 ideal for driving through the mountains.
12:59 Anku will make a few pit stops on this 107-mi journey.
13:04 First, he'll travel about 10 mi from his home to a warehouse in Chamba
13:08 to pick up food rations.
13:11 Then, he'll pass through several small towns and go through Sach Pass,
13:15 the highest point on Killar Road, before reaching his destination,
13:20 the district of Pangi Valley.
13:24 Today, Anku's loading 100-lb bags of wheat provided by the government to sustain India's
13:31 most isolated regions.
13:34 His truck can carry up to 12 tons.
13:37 But any more than that, and it could topple over.
13:43 He always stops at this local temple along the way.
14:02 The truck can hold up to 250 L of diesel.
14:07 But there are hardly any gas stations along the route.
14:23 The terrain starts off pretty smooth.
14:27 But as the truck goes uphill, it gets rough.
14:32 And his speed drops below 10 mph.
14:36 At this point, the road is only 10 ft wide.
14:42 And there's barely room for two cars to drive next to each other.
14:47 So when another vehicle approaches, Uncle needs to carefully reverse,
14:52 sometimes by hundreds of yards.
15:03 Luckily, he's traveling with truck conductor Muhammad Nisar Mughal,
15:08 who jumps out and guides Uncle around blind spots and dangerous turns.
15:25 >> There are no guardrails to prevent them from veering off.
15:37 In July 2022, a Jeep rolled into a gorge killing five people.
15:42 And in 2023, seven people died after their vehicle was hit by a landslide
15:48 on this route.
15:59 But after years of experience as a trucker, Anku isn't easily intimidated.
16:14 All the traditional rules of the road don't really apply.
16:18 Truck drivers communicate with hand signals,
16:21 which becomes important during moments of congestion like this.
16:32 They also use pressure horns, which are illegal in India.
16:39 But Anku says they need them for safety reasons.
16:49 Anku doesn't wear a seatbelt, either, even though under Indian law he's required to.
16:56 He says for this type of driving, they can do more harm than good,
17:00 as they restrict the driver from leaning over.
17:06 But stats on semi-truck accidents show
17:08 that drivers are more likely to survive
17:11 if they buckle up.
17:12 In this state alone,
17:14 trucks and buses accounted for 12% of all fatal crashes in 2022.
17:21 Landslides and snowfall have also weakened this road structure,
17:25 forming dishes and piles of debris.
17:29 So, the government hires contractors to keep repairing it.
17:35 Killar Road started off
17:36 as a footpath with narrow trails carved by shepherds
17:40 and traders who were trying to reach the remote Pangi Valley.
17:45 Legend has it that residents of Chamba fled to the hidden region to escape
17:50 Mughal invaders.
17:52 Others believe that in the 16th century,
17:55 the king of Chamba banished criminals to this isolated region.
18:00 These days, Killar Road is used mainly by tourists, bikers seeking an adrenaline rush,
18:07 truckers, and local residents.
18:11 After about 8 to 9 hours of driving, the men pull over.
18:22 They make a fire to start cooking with groceries they brought from home.
18:26 But even during dinner,
18:27 they stay vigilant in case they're confronted by wild animals or thieves.
18:46 There are no hotels for miles, so they sleep in the truck's cabin.
19:06 The next day, they start driving at the crack of dawn.
19:10 Killar Road gets even treacherous
19:13 and spectacular as trucks pass through waterfalls
19:19 and incredibly tight spaces.
19:27 >> >> Vehicles along this route often run into mechanical problems.
19:31 This truck carrying grains to Pangi Valley broke down after the gearbox stopped working.
19:37 The mechanic says the nearest store for car parts is about 180 miles away.
19:59 The whole process will take four days
20:01 and the truck will just stay here until
20:06 then.
20:06 Anku and his team carry on with their journey.
20:18 At around midday, they stop at a local dhaba for a quick bite.
20:27 These cafes cater to truck drivers.
20:31 The people who run them, like Lakshman Sharma,
20:33 understand how hard it is to drive around here.
20:47 But even these cafes close down once it starts snowing around October.
21:04 While Anku's job is an essential service,
21:07 he only makes about 10,000 rupees a month.
21:10 That's about 4 US dollars a day.
21:13 Enough to buy a few pounds of rice and lentils in India.
21:22 >> >> He could make about 25,000 rupees a month
21:25 as a personal driver in Delhi
21:27 or Bombay.
21:28 But his heart belongs here in the Himalayas.
21:31 And he wants the whole world to know how beautiful these mountains are.
21:39 So he vlogs on the side.
21:42 He has about 50,000 followers and counting on YouTube.
22:12 But the most treacherous part of this route is getting through Sach Pass.
22:18 At nearly 14,500 feet,
22:21 Sach Pass is one of the highest navigable places in the state of Himachal
22:25 Pradesh.
22:26 Drivers are advised not to stop at the top for more than 5 minutes
22:30 because there's so little oxygen in the air.
22:34 The road through here is even more narrow.
22:37 Barely more than 8 feet wide.
22:41 So uncle needs to be extremely mindful when navigating the steep slope.
23:14 >> It takes him about 3 to 4 hours to go through this 9-mi
23:19 stretch.
23:56 After they're through, Anku recaps the journey for his followers.
24:09 Killar is among 106 villages in Pangi Valley,
24:13 which has a total population of just 18,000 people.
24:23 Almost 200 trucks head there every summer, carrying food, medicine, and other basic supplies.
24:31 They store it in this warehouse for the winter,
24:34 and residents buy them at a subsidized rate set by the government.
24:44 As soon as they're done unloading, Anku and his colleagues hit the road.
24:52 Along the way, they pass by a nomadic community called the Gujjars.
25:00 For Uncle, catching up with them over a cup of tea has become a
25:03 ritual.
25:08 Even though driving through these mountains is a part of Uncle's identity,
25:17 the job has worn him down.
25:36 But he still yearns for the day he can truly enjoy the breathtaking nature
25:41 around him.
25:53 >> After training to become a Navy culinary specialist,
25:57 seamen can be placed as cooks on a submarine,
26:00 an environment with a unique set of challenges.
26:05 >> These Navy culinary specialists are preparing 15 lb of turkey, 10 lb of ham,
26:14 and pulled pork sandwiches made from scratch, along with mac and cheese, corn,
26:20 mashed potatoes, and cookies to serve a crew of 150 sailors.
26:27 >> Pulled pork, macaroni.
26:30 >> And they only have about 5 hours to prepare each meal.
26:35 >> You want the soup, too?
26:36 >> But this isn't your typical Navy galley.
26:39 This is where meals are made on a submarine in classified locations deep at
26:47 sea.
26:48 The crew of the nuclear-powered USS South Dakota works around the clock to monitor
26:54 >> Emergency bearing my depth 155 ft pilot eye. >>
26:57 and potentially engage with foreign threats.
27:00 >> We're tasked to go do something and we go do it.
27:03 >> For up to 9 months,
27:05 they work and live within the tight confines of their windowless ship where every
27:11 role is critical to the mission success.
27:14 Among them are the culinary specialists.
27:18 >> Oh, yeah.
27:20 >> These crew members have an essential responsibility,
27:24 feeding up to 150 sailors and fueling them for the challenges that lie ahead.
27:30 >> We are essentially the morale of the fleet.
27:32 Like if our morale is low,
27:33 their morale's going to be low
27:34 and you can easily taste it in the food.
27:37 >> Business Insider spent 2 days aboard the USS South Dakota
27:41 while it lay in port at Naval Submarine Base New London in Groton,
27:46 Connecticut observing culinary specialists preparing breakfast, lunch, and dinner for the crew.
27:54 >> The USS South Dakota is a Virginia class submarine.
27:56 Specifically, it's a block three,
27:58 meaning it has a few more capabilities
28:00 and a few more modifications than the regular Virginia class submarines.
28:03 And the the ship is manned 24 hours a day,
28:06 7 days a week while we're in port uh for security reasons.
28:09 >> While some off-duty crew members go home to see their families,
28:13 those on board rely on the meals prepared by the culinary specialists.
28:18 >> It might not be everyone all at once, but I'm going to feed everyone.
28:21 So, if I have 150 people on board,
28:23 I'm going to feed 150 people pretty much almost every meal.
28:26 >> Because the USS South Dakota is a nuclear powered submarine,
28:31 its time at sea is limited only by the amount of food it can
28:34 carry.
28:35 >> About 2 weeks in, you'll probably run out of fresh food.
28:37 That's the unfortunate reality of it.
28:39 So, we have some food in the outboards.
28:41 We have food in every locker imaginable.
28:44 If there's space available
28:45 and we can kind of quickly put food up there
28:46 and maybe ratchet down.
28:48 We'll take that opportunity to do that.
28:49 >> Fully stocked, the sub carries about 90 days worth of food.
28:54 >> The strategy for keeping fresh food aboard a submarine is you just accept
28:57 when you run out of fresh food.
28:58 And the second you get an opportunity to get more fresh food on,
29:00 you take that opportunity.
29:03 Today for dinner we're having Thanksgiving.
29:05 So we're having turkey, ham, mashed potatoes, gravy, hot rolls for our bread.
29:11 So this right here is essentially my menu.
29:14 Uh the actual name for it is the food preparation worksheet.
29:17 But layman's terms, this is essentially my menu.
29:19 This uh tells me everything that I'm having for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
29:24 >> Today, Petty Officer CSS Wesley Whitson is preparing 10 lb of ham
29:30 and 15 lb of turkey.
29:32 >> So the turkey itself I'm going to have to actually like cut up
29:34 a little bit,
29:35 you know, throw some seasoning on.
29:37 But the ham I literally just unwrap it, throw it in a pan,
29:40 wrap it up, call it a day.
29:41 That Yeah, that I can do real quick.
29:43 Uh so yeah, let's get with that.
29:45 And then when I'm ready,
29:46 I'm just going to throw it in the oven
29:48 and then I'm just going to let it make out.
29:50 Really easy, nothing nothing too crazy.
29:53 And done.
29:54 Yay, one less thing I got to worry about.
29:59 Okay.
29:59 Manning for us is supposed to be roughly about like seven or eight.
30:03 I don't have that right now, so I'm I'm working with what I got.
30:06 But because there's only so few of us, not only are you know,
30:10 we essentially you know, manager, but I'm also the cook.
30:13 I am the guy that has to make it.
30:15 So I not only have to manage everything,
30:17 but I have to make sure that I'm actually getting it done myself.
30:19 Days will usually take care of like lunch and dinner and you know,
30:23 for the meals.
30:24 Uh the night guy will kind of help prep for lunch a little bit,
30:27 but the day guys will will take over and they'll finish it.
30:30 >> With extended deployments, confined spaces, and shifts that can last up to 12 hours,
30:36 submarine assignments aren't desirable to many.
30:39 >> Not a lot of people want to, you know, wanted to join the military,
30:42 but also not a lot of people wanting to join subs, you know,
30:44 within the Navy, uh especially as a culinary specialist as a cook.
30:49 And I I get it.
30:49 This job isn't for everyone.
30:51 >> To compensate, the Navy offers an additional $85 to $600 a month to
30:57 submarine crew members based on rank
31:00 and time in service.
31:02 Culinary specialists who work aboard submarines earn a base salary of about $26,000.
31:10 >> Now, I just let those sit and proof.
31:12 So, I'll give them roughly about an hour or so,
31:15 and then I'll turn it over to actually bake,
31:18 and then they should be good to go.
31:20 So, not only am I the galley watch captain,
31:23 uh but I am also uh our bulk store custodian
31:25 or JOD as we call it,
31:27 which stands for jack of the dust.
31:29 That responsibility for me is to go about
31:31 and uh do what we call breakouts uh
31:34 or shopping uh to put it in layman's terms.
31:37 They'll look at the menu, they'll write a list of like what groceries,
31:40 you know, what food items they need or groceries, and they'll be like,
31:43 "I need this stuff."
31:44 And I'll take it be like, "All right."
31:46 And then I just go to where we keep all of our food,
31:48 you know, all the storerooms on board,
31:50 uh and then I will break it out uh for them.
31:52 That way they have it available for the next day.
31:54 >> Food is kept in storerooms, small cabinets, and other locations around the ship.
32:00 But because of operational security concerns,
32:03 cameras were only allowed in the galley during our visit.
32:06 >> Space is a luxury on a submarine,
32:07 so definitely keeping food anywhere we can to maximize the amount
32:11 that we have on board.
32:13 So, actually in all of these uh bench seats will have food,
32:17 as well as these backs will have some extra dry provisions.
32:22 And that'll be the same for all these bench seats
32:24 that will have some uh maple syrup,
32:28 chocolate syrup, strawberry syrup.
32:29 So, any kind of random select items like that.
32:32 We'll have soy sauce in those.
32:33 We'll have seasoning in these outboard ones.
32:35 Yeah, so we got bags of soup in there.
32:39 So, I am the supply officer chop on board.
32:41 Uh what that means I'm responsible for both the food service division
32:44 and the logistics division.
32:46 So, the first storm I have is the forward storm or the can room,
32:49 which as the name implies is just full of cans.
32:52 Typically, this room is actually a lot more full with cans coming all the
32:55 way up to this front door
32:56 and then actually going to the ceiling.
32:58 So, as we fill this up with more cans,
32:59 kind of like deciding what we're going to use first
33:01 and making sure those are actually put in the front.
33:03 When the guys need to get something out of the freezer,
33:05 they'll actually uh put a jacket on, get a headlamp on,
33:08 get a beanie on.
33:09 Pretty much just layer up like they're going to go in a cold area
33:11 like this area is below freezing most time.
33:13 Right now, it's -3.9°.
33:14 >> All food aboard submarines is logged and tracked every day.
33:20 And the budget for meals is determined by a daily allowance per sailor.
33:24 >> If we're in port,
33:25 we can spend anywhere from like $700 to $1,000 a day.
33:29 And then if we're out to sea,
33:30 anywhere from about $1,600 to like $2,800 per day.
33:34 We operate off of a 28-day cycle menu.
33:37 We'll have the same meals every 28 days.
33:39 It's definitely designed where it creates that kind of consistency throughout the week.
33:42 So, if you're having Italian on a night, you know it's a Thursday.
33:45 Or if you're having pizza for dinner, then you know it's a Saturday.
33:48 So, it helps the crew kind of keep their own pace
33:50 and honestly helps them pass the time.
33:51 If you're like, "Oh wow,
33:52 this is the second time we've had pizza this underway."
33:54 then you know it's already been 2 weeks.
33:55 >> Ooh, I can smell it.
33:58 Ooh, almost.
33:59 Almost.
34:00 >> Back in the kitchen,
34:03 culinary specialist Whitson has just 1 hour before the crew begins to line up
34:08 for dinner.
34:22 >> Ooh.
34:22 How's it feel to be done cooking?
34:25 >> Feels good.
34:27 Good to know that all I have left is to serve this out.
34:33 And then after that it's just clean up and then I'm done.
34:38 I got a whole lot of going on.
34:40 I'm going home to my wife and I'm getting my cuddles.
34:45 >> >> I appreciate all you guys.
34:47 I will take everything but the ham.
34:48 >> Extra ham?
34:49 >> I got you.
34:50 >> Extra ham?
34:51 I got you.
34:51 Just Just for you cuz I know how much you love that pork.
34:55 >> Oh man, you already know.
34:56 >> No corn and no soup.
34:58 Extra corn, extra soup?
35:00 I got you.
35:03 >> It's great.
35:05 It's great.
35:05 >> I remember three years >> I honestly love cooking.
35:08 I love being in the galley.
35:09 I love working with food.
35:10 I love putting out really good meals and making people happy with them.
35:14 I You know, I like seeing everyone being fulfilled
35:17 and having a good meal
35:18 and enjoying themselves with it.
35:20 >> On a sub, there is no internet, cell service,
35:24 or access to the outside world other than mission-critical communications
35:29 and the occasional email from family transmitted via secure satellite leaving crew members to
35:35 find their own ways of staying entertained during the little downtime they get.
35:40 >> I'm either reading a book, watching TV,
35:44 whether be like a TV show or a movie,
35:46 or I'm playing on my laptop.
35:48 >> My favorite way to pass time underway was honestly just spending time with
35:52 my guys.
35:53 You know, maybe if it's just playing chess
35:54 and cruise master like even just listening to music in my room
35:58 or listening to music in the wardroom.
35:59 Just That's distracting yourself in a way
36:02 but also keeping yourself busy
36:03 while keeping your mind active.
36:04 I think that's the best way to do it.
36:07 >> On every submarine, the crew's mess is designed to reflect a piece of
36:11 the state it's named after.
36:13 Aboard the USS South Dakota,
36:15 the space draws inspiration from Deadwood's iconic saloon number 10.
36:20 >> That's where the crew goes to relax.
36:23 It's also where they eat.
36:24 That's also where they, >> >> you know,
36:26 kind of let their hair down
36:27 and study if they
36:28 if they need to
36:29 or play cards,
36:31 play dominoes, play video games, conduct training.
36:34 It's kind of all all-purpose,
36:35 and that's what the did with saloon was to South Dakota back in the
36:39 1800s.
36:43 >> The next day, culinary specialist Lupon Jimenez steps into the galley ready to
36:49 prepare breakfast for the crew.
36:52 On the menu this morning, steak and egg burritos, pancakes, hash browns, and bacon.
37:00 It takes 3 hours to prepare the meal.
37:03 >> May I do a steak burrito with eggs and bacon?
37:07 >> And at 7:00,
37:08 the hungry sailors make their way to the crew's mess for breakfast.
37:15 As breakfast comes to an end, >> When you getting that pork butt going?
37:21 >> Uh in a couple minutes.
37:23 >> Are you guys starting lunch already?
37:25 >> Yeah.
37:25 >> There's barely a moment to rest.
37:28 Jimenez must quickly shift gears
37:30 and start preparing lunch to make sure he can feed 150 crew members.
37:35 >> Time is like pretty irrelevant here on the sub cuz we're just working
37:39 by hours.
37:40 It's 12 hours on, 12 hours off.
37:42 And then once we get off,
37:44 >> >> it's either go have fun or go straight to the straight to bed.
37:49 This is about to be the pulled pork.
37:51 I'm putting the meat into the mixer along with the juices.
37:55 It was boiling to shred the pork rather than me taking a long time
38:00 by hand.
38:01 The quicker you get it done, the less you got to worry about.
38:04 But you still got a time management to the meal hour,
38:07 that way it doesn't just sit on the line for a very long time
38:10 because that becomes a bad thing.
38:15 >> Meal today is the house pulled pork,
38:17 pulled pork mac and cheese and corn chowder.
38:18 It's actually one of my favorite things to make.
38:20 Out of all of them,
38:21 uh the mac cheese is probably my favorite thing to make.
38:25 >> I'm going to have to go to Milly with his mac and cheese.
38:27 Sometime he would like make his favorite, which is spicy mac and cheese.
38:32 Really spicy for some reason.
38:33 I feel like he puts like ghost pepper hot sauce in there or something.
38:37 But, uh, I don't know.
38:38 It's good.
38:43 I'm about to make some hot roll dough
38:46 and turn them into like buns from scratch.
38:53 >> How many rolls do you have to make?
38:55 >> I'm going to get at least around 100 and 120.
38:58 >> How many do you have so far?
39:00 >> Woo, I'll say about probably 80. 120 were last made throughout the meal
39:06 and then it showed me
39:07 that I have at least a little bit left over.
39:10 That's what I'm going for, that way I don't run out.
39:21 >> Is it a little more salt?
39:22 Do you have a potato in >> No, we don't have potato.
39:26 >> Will it be hot?
39:28 >> Uh, I don't >> Nice.
39:32 >> Please don't put a lot in there.
39:35 >> No, I won't.
39:36 I like that deep one outside of this.
39:38 That's definitely on the front side.
39:41 Yeah, can you get like a little more salt?
39:42 That should be good.
39:43 >> As the lunch hour nears, the ward room is prepared.
39:49 A space designated for the ship's officers.
39:54 >> There's significantly less officers on board a submarine than there are enlisted.
39:56 Uh, so they get their own room.
39:57 >> For lunch today we have pulled pork, mac and cheese, cauliflower, and green beans.
40:01 >> Very good, thank you.
40:02 >> Typically used for work, relaxation, and socializing,
40:06 the ward room becomes a dining room during mealtimes.
40:10 >> For the officers, this is their place to come and eat.
40:13 The family style meal serving that happens in the wardroom is very history rich.
40:20 >> While the dinner service is a privilege for the officers aboard,
40:25 it's not uncommon for them to join the crew in the crew's mess.
40:29 >> Boat board.
40:32 Macaroni.
40:32 >> Mhm.
40:32 >> I like when you put them together.
40:33 >> Mhm.
40:34 Got to.
40:38 >> That was boat day.
40:39 >> Mac and cheese is always the bomb.
40:40 I love boat board.
40:42 >> I like the mac and cheese, the boat board, and >> Before returning to sea,
40:47 the USS South Dakota will undergo thorough maintenance, followed by sea certification,
40:53 a process that tests both the crew
40:55 and the submarine to ensure all systems are fully operational for the next deployment.
41:01 >> It is exhausting, it is tiresome,
41:04 and it wears on you real quick if you let it.
41:07 But knowing that I'm able to feed people
41:09 and that they are happy with what I put out,
41:11 and they look forward to what I can bring to the table,
41:15 that that makes that makes it worth it for me.
41:18 >> Reaching Everest peak is an adventurer's holy grail,
41:21 but most can't do it without the help of experienced Sherpa guides.
41:25 It's a dangerous profession on the verge of disappearing.
41:35 A small shift of this ladder can turn catastrophic in a matter of seconds.
41:50 Navigating this path safely is the responsibility of Everest climbing guides,
41:56 many of whom are ethnic Sherpas who earn $4 to $10,000 per climb.
42:03 But usually, these guides can count on only one expedition per year.
42:08 The job is one of the most dangerous in the world.
42:13 >> I would say my daughter
42:14 and your your your
42:19 And while 2023 saw the most climbers on record,
42:23 it also saw the most deaths. 332 people have been lost to Everest in
42:30 the last century.
42:32 Over a third of them were mountain guides.
42:38 It's 2:00 a.m. at base camp,
42:41 and Furba Wangchu Sherpa is leading a team of guides
42:44 and climbers up the world's tallest mountain.
43:02 >> >> Furba Wangchu has touched Everest's peak 14 times already.
43:55 >> >> He begins every climb with a puja ceremony,
43:58 praying for safe passage and paying respect to the mountain.
44:03 Even with his success rate, he never underestimates the deadly risks.
44:26 Over the next several weeks,
44:28 this group of 16 will climb for hours on end in total darkness,
44:33 face the threat of avalanches and storms, and cross deadly passageways.
44:39 Purba Wangchu and his team of experienced guides are their best chance of making
44:44 it to the summit
44:45 and surviving.
44:46 >> It gives you a lot of confidence.
44:48 You know, when your Sherpa has 15, 16 summits,
44:52 like some of these Sherpas here,
44:54 when you're at high altitude and you're in those situations, and they tell you,
44:57 you know, it's okay, it's going to be okay,
44:59 it's very reassuring that they've summited so many times.
45:04 >> It's more than just mentally reassuring.
45:07 On the mountain, the choices guides make directly affect whether a climber lives.
45:18 The next morning, another group of climbers is gearing up for its expedition.
45:27 >> It takes a bit of time not to put it,
45:29 but it's safety of foot on the minus 30 or 50 sometimes.
45:36 >> Near base camp at 5,364 m, climbing guides lead a vital training course.
45:46 Without this refresher, climbers won't know how to work with their specific expedition team.
45:53 The guides are using the limited time they have today to review how best
45:57 to handle steep inclines
45:58 and to teach this team how to problem-solve on the spot.
46:24 >> Sorry.
46:24 >> Yeah.
46:24 >> The course is one of the services included in a mountain guide's cost.
46:29 Guides only work with experienced high-altitude mountaineers, a requirement of the Nepalese government.
46:35 But that doesn't mean the climbers are ready to brave Everest's extreme climate yet.
46:43 >> I think if you are talking about high-altitude mountaineering,
46:46 it's important to do this, you know, at least every 6 months.
46:52 It keeps your body ready for, I think, lack of oxygen.
46:59 I came here by helicopter,
47:00 which is not probably it was not the best idea.
47:03 So, the first stage was quite hard.
47:07 >> It'll be Ismail's second attempt at summiting Everest.
47:11 He confronted the danger that awaits his new team over a decade ago.
47:16 >> We almost reached 8,500, but because of the very unfavorable weather conditions,
47:23 had to return.
47:24 So, the summit was very close.
47:26 So, after 11 years, I'm back.
47:31 >> Ismail averted catastrophe in his first summit attempt, but not everyone is so lucky.
47:38 When climbers are critically injured,
47:40 guides have to be prepared to switch an expedition to a rescue
47:44 and provide emergency relief.
47:48 In May 2023, a team of Sherpa guides rescued a climber from Everest's death
47:56 zone.
47:56 Over the course of 6 hours,
47:58 the guides carried him on their backs down to camp three.
48:06 Since the 2019 season, as a safety measure,
48:09 Nepal has required every climber to be accompanied by at least one climbing guide.
48:15 And choosing a local guide has its distinct benefits on Everest.
48:20 Many of these mountain guides are Sherpas,
48:22 an ethnic group natives to the slopes of Mount Everest.
48:26 >> The conquering team was composed of 20 Americans >> >> aided by Sherpa
48:29 tribesmen who acted as carriers.
48:33 >> Though the term Sherpa is informally used as a catchall for Everest guides,
48:37 the Sherpa people have been closely involved in mountaineering here since the very first
48:42 Everest expeditions.
48:45 Their tissues use oxygen more efficiently
48:48 and preserve muscle energy better than people from lowlands.
48:52 That's one of the reasons Sherpa guides can assist their climbers with heavy loads
48:57 without risking as much physical strain.
49:00 >> I've got a very good Sherpa, um, you know, and he carries he carries,
49:05 um, a lot.
49:06 So, about 10 kg I would carry, but they would carry three times that.
49:16 >> And it's indispensable, especially here at the Khumbu Icefall,
49:20 where three Sherpas lost their lives in 2023.
49:31 At an elevation of 5,486 m,
49:35 the team slowly makes its way through shifting glaciers.
50:09 >> The group is also relying on the work
50:11 that locals known as icefall doctors did months earlier.
50:16 These specialized climbers establish the safest route to the top of Everest every season.
50:22 A separate fee of $600 per expedition member goes to these icefall doctors to
50:28 use the ladders and ropes they set up.
50:38 But even with a clear path,
50:40 climbers are still in danger of crevasses opening and closing and even unexpected avalanches.
51:10 >> >> Considering the danger, it's no surprise
51:12 that mountain guides are one of the biggest expenses in summiting Everest.
51:17 Climbers pay as much
51:19 as $100,000 for the expedition
51:22 and a chance at standing at the top of the world.
51:29 For each of these climbs,
51:30 guides certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations can charge agencies $10,000.
51:39 Less experienced climbing guides make only $4,000 per climb.
51:44 The agency Furba Wangchu works with, Makalu Adventure,
51:48 says it pays guides an additional $1,500 for every successful summit.
51:55 >> I think it's okay for for what it is.
51:58 Um it's okay and you know,
52:00 the Nepalese government have to make money from it.
52:03 The sherpas have to have to make money and you know,
52:05 it would be an insult, I think,
52:07 if we we just come
52:08 and and pay hardly anything
52:10 and and summit the mountain.
52:13 >> The majority of summits occur in the spring season.
52:16 So, most guides are hired for only one expedition, limiting their yearly income.
52:22 Furba Wangchu says guides don't see enough money to justify continuously risking their lives.
52:30 >> The Himalayan terrain is so steep though.
52:32 The person that I'm going to climb up is
52:33 so above above the lower part of the journey is
52:36 so I'm going to buy
52:37 but I'm going to go above just go above the river
52:39 but I'm going to go above the river
52:40 but I'm going to go above the river.
52:42 Above the lower part of the journey is
52:43 so I'm going to buy
52:44 but I'm going above the lower part of the journey is
52:46 so I'm going to buy
52:47 but I'm going to go above the >> Guides also have to pay for
52:53 their own gear,
52:54 an investment of as much as $7,000.
52:58 That includes clothing, boots, and backpacks that must withstand extreme conditions on the mountain.
53:06 The down suit alone can cost $2,000
53:10 and some gear needs to be replaced every few years.
53:14 Often times, working as a guide in the increasingly commercialized Everest industry comes out
53:19 of necessity.
53:21 >> Above the mountain terrain is
53:23 so above the lower part of the journey is
53:25 so I'm going to buy
53:25 but above the lower part of the journey is
53:27 so I'm going to above the lower part of the journey is
53:30 so I'm going to buy
53:30 but I'm going to go above the river.
53:32 Above the lower part of the journey is
53:33 so I'm going to above the lower above the lower part of the journey
53:37 is so I'm going to buy
53:37 but I'm going above the lower part of the journey is
53:42 so I'm going to buy
53:42 but I'm going to go above the river
53:43 but I'm going to go above the river
53:44 but I'm going >> Despite of flood,
53:52 Furba Wangchu takes on other work.
54:03 This is common for many local guides who struggle to make ends meet from
54:07 a job that routinely puts their life in danger.
54:21 >> >> That's one of the reasons Dawa Geljen Sherpa quit his career
54:25 as a climbing guide.
54:50 Like Dawa Geljen, Furba Wangchu openly questions whether the risks are really worth it.
54:57 And he thinks it's a question more Sherpa guides will ask.
55:07 If Furba Wangchu is right,
55:09 a declining number of expert mountain guides will coincide with the growing Everest tourism
55:14 industry.
55:17 In spring 2023, Nepal issued a record number of 478 permits to summit Mount
55:24 Everest.
55:25 This broke the record set 2 years earlier when it issued 409 permits.
55:31 But as the industry grows, so too does the frequency of fatalities.
55:37 Spring 2023 saw 18 deaths, 15 confirmed and three presumed,
55:43 making it the deadliest season for climbers on Everest.
55:48 Six of those lost were Sherpa guides.
55:52 At the same time,
55:53 Nepal is seeing a growing job market with locals increasingly choosing other professions.
56:44 >> >> The rising death toll on Everest has put more pressure on the
56:48 Nepalese government to manage tourism on the mountain.
56:53 In 2025, it plans to increase the price of climbing permits for foreigners to
57:00 $15,000,
57:00 up from $11,000.
57:03 The government says the salaries of high-altitude guides and workers will also increase.
57:11 This could be a beacon of hope for some younger locals who still see
57:15 a future in being a mountain guide,
57:17 like Shashank and Tsering Rai.
57:21 >> Climber only.
57:28 Climber.
57:28 I saw learning beside >> this way.
57:47 >> Unlike Furba Wangchu, Sushant is able to pursue his education.
57:53 Still, the mountain compels him.
58:20 But the truth is that the future for guides on Everest is unclear.
58:52 >> The craftsmen at this factory supply the world's top ballerinas with one of
58:56 their most important pieces of equipment,
58:58 their shoes.
59:06 This is how a professional ballerina customizes her pointe shoes for a show.
59:11 >> Destroy them basically.
59:13 To everybody else, it looks like we're destroying them.
59:15 Just banging it out a little bit.
59:19 It's actually kind of fun.
59:20 I enjoy it kind of.
59:23 >> But after just one day of rehearsing and performing leaps, turns, and pirouettes,
59:28 the shoes will be completely unusable.
59:30 >> This is a used shoe.
59:32 >> That's why New York City ballet dancers go through about 7,000 pairs every
59:37 year.
59:39 And all of them come from Freed of London,
59:44 which has been one of the world's leading ballet shoe manufacturers for nearly 80
59:48 years.
59:50 >> We supply all over the world.
59:52 There really isn't a country that we don't work with in some capacity.
59:57 >> Its methods haven't changed much over the decades.
60:00 Every single shoe still has to be formed and stitched mostly by hand.
60:05 But this traditional approach makes it hard to keep up with the non-stop demand
60:10 from some of the largest ballet companies in the world.
60:13 >> We are constantly playing catch-up.
60:14 >> The New York City Ballet buys all its shoes from Freed of London,
60:21 one of the first companies to customize shoes to dancers' feet back in 1929.
60:26 >> Mr.
60:27 Freed had been a point shoe maker for another company,
60:30 and he wasn't very satisfied with how the shoes were being produced.
60:35 Before Mr.
60:35 Freed, the point shoe was very much one size, one width.
60:39 So, a dancer had to squeeze their foot into it.
60:41 And he came up with this concept, which seems so normal today,
60:45 of making different width fittings.
60:50 >> They all start with stapling a leather sole to a mold.
60:54 >> And this is where the consistency comes in here.
60:56 Just make sure they're all the same.
60:59 >> Shoemakers like Alan Doherty make custom shoes for specific dancers.
61:04 He's currently assigned to more than 600 ballerinas.
61:07 >> He is really one of our most popular makers.
61:11 >> But the factory only has 24 shoemakers who make customs,
61:15 and they supply some of the largest ballet companies in the world,
61:18 including the Royal Ballet in London, the American Ballet Theatre,
61:21 and the Paris Opera Ballet.
61:23 >> We are constantly playing catch up.
61:25 Many of our pointe shoe makers,
61:27 their work schedule is booked right through to the end of 2026.
61:33 When a maker retires,
61:35 um we start planning nearly 2 years in advance where we start to look
61:39 at what other makers um are similar in their characteristic of shoe
61:46 and looking at how we can transfer
61:48 and move dancers from one maker to the other.
61:51 >> Still, Freed manages to pump out about 2,500 pairs a week.
61:57 Most of the process is done by hand.
62:00 >> Now, here comes the messy bit.
62:05 >> >> The founder of the company, Frederick Freed himself,
62:08 created the paste that makes up the box, which the company keeps secret.
62:12 >> It's specially with flour and water and a few secret ingredients,
62:17 which I'm not allowed to tell you.
62:20 It's like putting your hand in porridge.
62:23 >> The paste is what makes the shoes so malleable,
62:25 adapting to the exact shape of a dancer's foot,
62:28 but it's also why they wear out so quickly.
62:32 Alan can make 34 pairs in a single day.
62:35 >> So, everyone makes different amounts.
62:37 Um some make 28, some make 30, some make 32.
62:42 Others make 34, one does 41.
62:46 >> Putting in the pleats is the hardest and most crucial step.
62:50 >> What does this consist of?
62:51 It's twist and pull.
62:54 That's what gives them the strength, the pleats.
62:57 We try and be precise as best we can.
63:00 It is a handmade job, so it can't be perfect all the time.
63:04 Now, they're ready for stitching.
63:06 >> Sewing and stitching are the only steps where they use machines.
63:10 >> Most of our competitors have now closed their home
63:13 or native production and moved offshore
63:16 and gone into a much more automated sort of machine-made approach.
63:21 But, we still are true to the beginning idea, which is hand-making shoes,
63:25 >> >> bespoke-ing shoes, giving the dancer what they need.
63:29 >> Once the shoes are made, they have to be maintained and fitted,
63:32 and that's where the dance company's shoe department comes in.
63:39 The New York City Ballet spends nearly a million dollars a year buying pointe
63:43 shoes for its dancers.
63:45 And Daniel Wong is the only one keeping track of them all.
63:49 >> Right now, I have about 9,000 pairs of shoes in this room.
63:56 >> A pointe shoe has three main sections: the box, the vamp, and the shank.
64:01 Also known as the sole.
64:04 The box is what makes a pointe shoe, well, a pointe shoe.
64:08 It helps create the illusion of a dancer being on the very tip of
64:10 their toes.
64:12 >> This has a platform right here that the dancer can stand on.
64:17 >> The vamp covers and supports the toes as they bend.
64:21 >> The measurement has to be very precise,
64:24 so that it doesn't get in the way.
64:26 >> The shank supports the dancer's arch while on pointe.
64:30 >> Strength of the shank can be different depending on what the dancer wants.
64:34 So, really, every single piece of the shoe can be customized.
64:39 >> While a dancer is on pointe,
64:41 the pressure on their feet and ankles feels like 12 times their weight.
64:47 So, if the fit of the shoe is even a little bit off,
64:50 it could be dangerous.
64:52 >> You can injure yourself if you're not wearing the right shoe.
64:54 You can injure yourself if a shoe is too soft for your foot.
64:57 So, it's just important to find, you know,
65:00 a shoe that fits you really well.
65:04 >> Hello.
65:04 Hello.
65:04 Hi.
65:04 How are you?
65:06 >> Good.
65:06 How are you?
65:07 >> I'm good.
65:10 >> Dancers have preferences.
65:13 My job is to make sure that they have shoes that they're comfortable with,
65:17 but also don't get them injured.
65:19 >> Which one should we start with?
65:21 >> We're going to do a 4 and 1/2.
65:23 You pin Does the heel secure?
65:26 >> I wouldn't mind raising it.
65:28 I wouldn't say no to that.
65:32 Wow.
65:33 See, I like that.
65:34 That's so much more comfortable.
65:36 >> Okay.
65:36 >> Finding the perfect fit can take years,
65:39 and dancers go through many trial pairs before landing on the right ones.
65:43 >> Oh, yeah.
65:43 That's so much better.
65:44 >> It's so much better, and I feel better in them.
65:46 >> You can kind of see there's like a 90° angle.
65:49 I don't know how to show it, but there's like a 90° angle.
65:52 That's like one of the customizations that I really like,
65:55 just cuz standing on it
65:56 and then rolling up to point is feels a lot better.
66:00 I've already had a few customs come in with these specs,
66:03 meaning like the size and how short I wanted it.
66:07 >> Which one is that?
66:07 >> This is without cutting it.
66:09 This is the 4 and 1/2. >> 4 and 1/2,
66:10 but the but the >> But this trial pair still isn't perfect.
66:13 >> If I can do this, it's a little bit too loose.
66:17 She'll be able to wear them, but you know,
66:20 they're not they're not the best.
66:22 It's not the best fit.
66:25 >> >> For brands to stand out, color is key.
66:28 And to get an exact match every time,
66:31 companies need printers and ink mixers who rely on Pantone guides.
66:37 For printers, Pantone is a fact of life.
66:40 >> The whole 38 years I've been here, we've been using Pantone.
66:43 If we went away from Pantone, a lot of our higher end clients,
66:48 I don't think they would want to do business with us anymore.
66:51 >> Kevin uses Pantone guides to verify that printed colors match client orders.
66:57 >> If they have a book and they pick the color,
66:59 then we have our book and we know exactly what they want.
67:03 They're one of our most valuable tools that we have in in industry.
67:08 >> Allied Printing mixes each Pantone color in-house using a set of base inks.
67:16 >> If you mix to the formula, you're getting the Pantone color.
67:19 Where if you're just shooting in the dark,
67:22 you could be mixing ink all day long.
67:25 >> Anthony is Allied Printing's resident ink mixer.
67:29 >> Just go to page 65, find your color.
67:32 This is 711 right here.
67:35 So, we want a 6-pounder.
67:36 Usually I do my 6-pounders in a 1-gallon.
67:39 This fits up to like 8 lb.
67:42 This is my recipe right here.
67:43 So, I have transparent white, which is clear.
67:48 We have yellow.
67:54 We have warm red.
67:57 This one calls for 4.6 lb.
68:05 And then we have black.
68:07 All right.
68:08 So, that's the last ingredient.
68:10 Ready to throw it on the mixer.
68:14 >> But Allied Printing doesn't buy ink from Pantone.
68:18 It works with a licensed manufacturer.
68:21 And to access color formulas,
68:22 Anthony uses third-party software that's again licensed by Pantone.
68:28 The only thing Allied Printing buys from Pantone are the guidebooks.
68:34 After mixing, Anthony tests every batch to ensure it's consistent.
68:39 >> I'll put down my sample first, and then this is my batch.
68:46 >> >> Draw it down.
68:49 There's your color.
68:51 It looks good.
68:52 The formula looks good, and that's it.
68:54 That's a typical ink order fulfilled.
68:58 >> Because Pantone colors are pre-mixed from 11 base inks.
69:03 They look brighter and cleaner compared to CMYK, which uses just four colors.
69:10 >> Pantone has a huge gamut of colors
69:13 that you'll never be able to achieve with CMYK.
69:18 You can try to imitate Pantone colors through four-color process,
69:23 but in my opinion, you never do.
69:26 They get dingy and dirty.
69:30 >> CMYK is useful for something like this photo with hundreds of slightly different
69:36 colors and shades.
69:38 Pantone excels when you need one solid color to look exactly the same every
69:43 time it's printed,
69:45 like with a logo or a brand color.
69:48 >> We could run a part of a project here in Connecticut
69:50 and someone else could run part of a project in California,
69:52 and if you're running Pantone, they're going to match.
69:55 >> But depending on what you're printing, Pantone is often more expensive.
70:00 Besides the effort of mixing colors,
70:02 Kevin says the ink itself costs about 15 to 25% more than CMYK.
70:08 >> Some of our customers don't care about price.
70:10 A lot of big corporations, if that's their corporate color,
70:14 they want their corporate color to be perfect.
70:19 >> Over in Louisiana, shrimpers are an important part of the state's history.
70:25 Shrimp is the most consumed seafood in the United States, and in Louisiana,
70:30 it's big business.
70:32 >> >> The wild caught crustaceans bring in about $1.3 billion for the state
70:37 every year.
70:38 But for the last few years,
70:39 shrimpers have been hit with a perfect storm of rising fuel costs
70:43 and rock-bottom prices.
70:45 >> That's one of the toughest jobs you could ever do.
70:48 And if you're not getting your dues for it, why do it?
70:52 >> Producers say a flood of cheaper imported shrimp from India
70:55 and Ecuador is sinking Louisiana's industry.
70:59 But, there's no way to feed America's skyrocketing demand without imports,
71:03 which make up 90% of the shrimp the US consumes.
71:07 Up against these headwinds,
71:08 companies up and down Louisiana's supply chain are closing up shop.
71:12 >> If you worked hard and you did the right thing,
71:14 you could become a millionaire in the '80s and the '90s.
71:18 Now, you can barely make a living.
71:20 >> So, how did the industry get this bad?
71:22 And is it too late to save it?
71:28 Kristen Balmer is one of the few processors left in the area who only
71:32 works with Gulf shrimp.
71:34 Just like his family has for over 130 years.
71:38 >> We've definitely seen a lot of processors go out of business.
71:41 It's become more of a volume game because the margins are so tight.
71:46 >> His company processes 30 million pounds of shrimp annually.
71:50 >> So, what we're doing is easy peeling shrimp.
71:52 We're hand-feeding it into a machine
71:54 that puts a and
71:55 that splits the back of the shell,
71:56 cuts the shell open,
71:58 and then it allows
71:59 when you cook it more flavor to get into the shrimp
72:01 as well as making it easier to peel.
72:04 >> Kristen's team flash freezes all the crustaceans in this room.
72:08 That's how they're able to transport the shrimp all over the country.
72:11 >> So, they're cooking shrimp for the second time to make sure they get
72:15 all the defects out of it before it goes up.
72:19 >> This shaker separates the pieces so they won't stick together when they're frozen.
72:24 Then they take a trip down this tunnel at minus 400° Fahrenheit.
72:28 >> And after the shrimp it gets the liquid nitrogen it forms a crystal
72:32 on the shrimp and
72:33 then it moves slowly through the belt to freeze from the outside in.
72:38 Don't stick your finger in unless you have a warrant
72:40 that you want to burn off.
72:42 >> This machine portions the seafood into 5-lb bags of about 15 pieces.
72:48 Each bag gets a traceability barcode.
72:50 >> Link it all the way back to the shrimp dock that it came from.
72:54 >> This processed product comes out to anywhere from 7 to $10 a pound,
72:59 depending on the season.
73:01 >> With inflation, everything is getting more and more expensive,
73:04 and running these processing plants
73:05 and all this movement of equipment
73:07 and avoiding breakdowns takes a lot of capital.
73:14 >> >> Meanwhile, shrimpers like Captain Lonnie Mayeux Jr. are facing skyrocketing costs of
73:19 operating a boat.
73:20 >> You're wasting fuel and ice if you don't catch anything.
73:24 >> Since the 1980s, he says a block of ice has gone from $14
73:27 to $26 today.
73:29 A set of new nets more than doubled,
73:31 and a gallon of gas more than tripled in price.
73:34 At 82 years old, Lonnie, who goes by Knuckles,
73:38 hasn't given up trawling these waters even after six decades.
73:42 Starting in May, he heads out to catch brown shrimp, usually around sunset.
73:47 >> You have to go uh do your homework and so,
73:51 and know where they're going to be at.
73:54 >> He works independently, like most of the shrimpers here.
73:57 >> Right about there.
74:00 Uh a little too far.
74:03 >> During the day, brown shrimp may bury themselves in the sediment to hide
74:06 from predators.
74:07 But after dark, they often come out and roam in shallow water.
74:13 Knuckles and his deckhand Steve drop these nets
74:15 that skim the top of the water.
74:17 >> We're not dragging anything on the bottom.
74:20 >> He positions himself against the current, so the shrimp flow right into his nets.
74:24 >> The shrimp are not like fish.
74:27 They can't really swim that great.
74:31 They take the They take a ride on the current.
74:35 >> Knuckles and Steve will pick out and keep just the shrimp.
74:38 Sea turtles have an escape hatch in the net,
74:40 and other animals get thrown back into the sea.
74:43 Where some dolphins are waiting to chow down on them.
74:46 >> If we don't pick up in that favor often enough,
74:50 they'll take and bite it out of the net.
74:53 >> They can literally rip a a 4-ft hole in it,
74:57 which is going to take a lot of time to fix.
75:00 >> Like this one, Knuckles pulls up the net so he can sew it closed.
75:04 >> You're going to lose everything.
75:06 You know?
75:07 You're going to be working for literally nothing.
75:11 >> This work can be grueling.
75:14 Some shrimpers have big enough vessels,
75:15 they can stay out for weeks at a time.
75:18 Knuckles has a smaller boat, so he fishes just until morning.
75:22 >> Well, it keeps you in shape.
75:25 >> But even after all this work,
75:26 there's a chance they could have a bad run.
75:28 Tonight, most of the nets were full of catfish.
75:35 >> Ooh, catfish.
75:35 >> See the belly?
75:37 It's full of shrimp.
75:37 >> Full of shrimp.
75:39 They went in the net, ate all the shrimp.
75:42 And you got a pound of shrimp, it's all catfish.
75:47 I'm going to try pushing up going a little further up in the lake
75:49 or something.
75:52 >> Knuckles spent $45,000 buying and fixing up his boat.
75:56 It was meant to be his ticket to retirement.
75:58 But now he's unsure that plan will work.
76:01 >> You know, for me to get out of the business,
76:03 I got to sell it.
76:04 I got no retirement.
76:07 But I can't sell a boat.
76:09 Can't give it away.
76:12 Nobody wants it.
76:15 >> And most shrimpers agree, it's getting harder to justify going out.
76:20 >> When this boat leaves the dock, it's going to cost me over $1,000.
76:24 It's killing us.
76:24 The farmers, it's killing us.
76:27 >> Right now, nobody want to do it no more because they're struggling.
76:32 >> Molena Chee has been fishing for 8 years.
76:35 >> >> Like 60% of the state's shrimp boat owners,
76:37 she and her husband are originally from Southeast Asia.
76:41 >> With our education, there's nothing else we could do besides fishermen,
76:45 especially like me and my husband like in our mid-50s.
76:48 >> Milena and her husband weren't able to go to college,
76:53 but they hope shrimping would help their kids do the opposite.
76:55 >> Not enough to pay, especially when you have two kids in college.
77:00 You're struggling.
77:04 >> >> Dock owners are feeling the impact, too.
77:06 >> Cuz if we don't bring no shrimp, they don't make no money, either.
77:10 You know, when the shrimp boat go out, they're going to kill the docks,
77:13 too.
77:16 That's a pretty shrimp.
77:19 >> Dean Blanchard's family has been buying and selling local shrimp for five generations.
77:24 >> Uh I was born in a shrimp dock.
77:26 When I was a baby, they used to put me in a shrimp box.
77:30 >> His dock, 2 hours south of New Orleans,
77:32 was once one of the biggest shrimp suppliers in the country.
77:36 But last year, he paid the lowest prices he ever has for the larger
77:39 shrimp. >> 30 some years ago,
77:41 they went down from $5 to $1.30.
77:43 >> That's because he's selling it for so little to the peeling factories.
77:50 >> Right now, the cheapest I've ever seen in my life.
77:54 I'm sick to my stomach.
77:55 I ain't never seen nothing like this.
77:58 Never.
77:58 Never in my life seen it this bad.
78:02 >> After six decades in the industry, Dean's no stranger to financial challenges.
78:08 From the 2010 BP oil spill to big storms.
78:12 His dock had $2 million in damages after Hurricane Ida hit in 2021.
78:18 >> Yeah, where you standing right there wasn't even there after the storm.
78:22 I mean, I've rebuilt this building at least eight, nine times.
78:27 >> He never fixed up this part of his marina.
78:29 >> Uh it brings tears to your eyes.
78:31 I mean, everything you worked for all your life is gone.
78:35 >> But imports, he says, done even more damage.
78:40 >> We're directly correlated with imports.
78:42 If a completely processed product is coming in for just over $4 a pound,
78:48 uh that means our dockside prices have to be lower,
78:51 the processors prices are lower.
78:52 So, to be able to try to get that market share and keep it.
78:56 So, you're making the same amount of money that you would in 2000,
79:01 but 22 years later.
79:05 >> Fewer boats can afford to go out,
79:07 so less shrimp is landing on Dean's dock.
79:12 >> We're down to right under 20% of what we normally are for this
79:15 time of the year.
79:17 >> On this day we visited in May 2023,
79:20 not a single shrimp boat pulled up to unload.
79:23 >> It ain't going to last too much longer like this.
79:26 Thank God I'm almost 65 years old
79:29 and I ain't got no kids in this business.
79:33 >> Dean estimates that 96% of the docks operating
79:36 when he started out have since closed down.
79:39 >> I feel bad for the people because I know once I'm gone,
79:42 they're going to have to drive 50, 60,
79:44 70 miles to go sell their product.
79:48 >> Just like Knuckles, when Dean retires, he doesn't think anyone will buy the company.
79:53 >> Nobody can afford to take it over.
79:55 The property is worth more than the business.
80:01 >> >> The workers here use some of the finest pigments in the world
80:05 to create colored pencils
80:06 that can cost around $350 a set.
80:12 >> Every colored pencil starts off like this, bright, powdery pigment.
80:18 But, it's the secret recipe for transforming these pigments into colorful cores
80:23 that sets professional pencils apart from student grade ones.
80:29 Every ingredient, from pigments to waxes and oils,
80:32 and even the wood is carefully chosen to make these pencils perform better on
80:37 paper.
80:39 And artists are often willing to shell out hundreds of dollars for this level
80:43 of performance.
80:47 At Faber-Castell's factory in Stein, Germany,
80:50 workers churn out a whopping 2.3 billion pencils a year.
80:56 Making them takes a surprising amount of precision.
80:59 Starting with these, the pigments.
81:03 Just like people, the particles of each pigment have their own distinct personality
81:08 and behavior.
81:10 Some are rough and edgy and scratch across the paper,
81:14 while others are smooth and silky.
81:18 But size also matters, down to the micrometer.
81:23 Faber-Castell says ideally,
81:25 90% of the pigment particles should have a diameter of less than 40 micrometers.
81:32 It says this is perfect for creating a core with a consistent texture
81:37 and vibrant color that applies smoothly.
81:57 Balancing the pigments' behavior requires adjusting the other ingredients.
82:02 Unlike cheaper alternatives, professional colored pencils have a lot more pigment than filler,
82:08 so it's important that the balance of ingredients is just right.
82:13 The ingredients are top secret, but Gerold Luga, a chemist at Faber-Castell,
82:19 told Business Insider it's a specific combination of oils, waxes,
82:24 and fillers that binds the pigments.
82:29 The result is this mixture, dough-like clumps of color.
82:34 But each color has a bespoke formula because not all pigments are created equal.
82:50 After the mysterious blend of waxes, oils, and fillers is mixed with the pigment,
82:55 it's pushed through this high-pressure machine.
83:00 The result, identical pencil length cylindrical cores.
83:06 Workers bake the cores in batches to harden them.
83:10 Then, they dip the dry cores in a melted mixture of waxes
83:15 and fatty acid derivatives.
83:18 Faber-Castell's colored pencil cores are 3.8 mm in diameter,
83:23 making them less likely to break compared to Crayola's 3.3 mm cores.
83:31 The company randomly tests cores from each batch to make sure they won't break
83:36 under pressure.
83:38 Quality testers apply pressure to the cores at a 60° angle.
83:44 They shouldn't break until the force is at least 3.3 kg.
83:50 The core's performance is also scrutinized with smear tests like this one.
84:07 >> >> Pencil cores made by different brands each have their own characteristics.
84:13 The wax base of Caran d'Ache's Luminance pencils is soft,
84:17 so the color melts into the paper.
84:20 That makes them great for creating gradients.
84:24 Faber-Castell's colored pencils, on the other hand, have a harder core,
84:29 so they're best for fine lines and realistic details.
84:35 Even the wood encasing the cores of professional-grade pencils is carefully considered.
84:41 A pencil's wood determines how long the pencil will last
84:45 and how well it will sharpen.
85:06 At the factory, the cedar is cut into planks,
85:09 which are stored for months until they're dry.
85:13 Grooves are milled into the wood and the cores are slotted into the planks.
85:18 Another identical plank is glued on top
85:21 and they're pressed together before the next machine cuts them into perfect pencils.
85:31 But the pencils shouldn't just perform well, they must also look and feel expensive.
85:38 Workers mix dyes to the exact color of the cores to create a water-based
85:43 varnish for the outside of the pencils.
85:48 Another machine coats each pencil with this varnish.
85:53 The pencils are then stamped with a company's branding
85:56 and the end caps are dipped again,
85:59 rounding out the top of the pencil.
86:02 Every step of the way,
86:04 the pencils are checked for visual defects like chips and varnish irregularities,
86:09 and the faulty ones are removed.
86:15 The longevity of a color is known as its light fastness.
86:20 Faber-Castell uses a star rating where three stars means the color will be preserved
86:25 with little or no fading for 100 years in museum-like conditions.
86:31 Almost all of the colored pencils the company offers in its professional lines are
86:35 three stars.
86:37 Each color receives a rating through a specialized light fastness test.
88:04 >> >> At the world's largest truck stop, there's no shortage of jobs,
88:08 which is why Iowa 80 is dubbed the Disney World for truckers.
88:13 This kitchen feeds the world's largest truck stop.
88:17 Chefs sling out 350,000 meals a year.
88:21 Iowa 80 covers over 150 football fields.
88:26 It's one of the last major US truck stops that's independently owned and thriving.
88:31 Truckers come from all over for its movie theater, truck wash, chiropractor, dentist,
88:37 and 900 parking spots for semi's alone.
88:40 >> It is impossible to find a place to park in other truck stops.
88:43 There's always spaces to park here.
88:48 >> But most of America's mom-and-pop truck stops are gone
88:51 or barely hanging on.
88:52 >> So this is what truck stops used to look like.
88:55 It has a gas station, a cafe, and lodging.
88:58 >> Reed and Island Corner in Colo,
89:00 Iowa is one of America's last remaining one stops from the early 1900s.
89:05 It sits at the intersection of two of America's first cross-country highways,
89:09 Route 30, which carried travelers through small towns like Colo.
89:13 >> They're so vital to our community and our state.
89:16 >> But when the interstate carved new paths around Colo,
89:19 the once constant flow of travelers disappeared.
89:23 Now a few people from the town are trying to save it.
89:26 >> We don't have any money.
89:27 We're starting with zero.
89:29 >> So how did American truck stops go from this to this?
89:33 And as more professional drivers hit the road, why are truck stops so important?
89:43 The Iowa 80 kitchen runs 24/7, 365 days a year.
89:48 I got there around 8:00 a.m. on a Friday,
89:50 just in time for the morning rush.
89:53 Chefs were slinging out pancakes and French toast to order,
89:56 making all the food for the 50-ft buffet, and working the omelet bar.
90:02 >> There's a lot of calling out to each other.
90:05 Kind of like a rhythmic dance or something like that.
90:08 >> They're expecting 600 people today.
90:11 So, chefs tackle prep for lunch and dinner early in the morning, too.
90:14 >> When we're, you know, full steam, we'll have 20 workers probably today.
90:18 >> Bacon is the first thing to hit the ovens.
90:20 >> We usually prep up about 60 lbs of bacon for the day.
90:24 >> Since opening 61 years ago,
90:26 Iowa 80 Kitchen has served up to 23 million eggs.
90:31 Scrambled eggs for the buffet arrive frozen.
90:33 Chefs defrost the bags
90:35 and drop them in a vat of hot water to steam.
90:37 >> And then we just beat them up with the whisk
90:39 and then we serve them.
90:41 >> Head chef Rick Denney plans out how much food the team will make
90:44 depending on the day
90:44 and season.
90:45 >> How are you related to the family?
90:48 >> I'm not related at all.
90:49 I've tried marrying in a few times, but they won't let me.
90:51 Uh, this is >> My grandfather was the original owner of the restaurant.
90:55 >> Chris Honn still uses her grandfather's recipe for meatloaf, a crowd favorite.
91:00 She chops onions and celery
91:02 and dumps in spices
91:03 and tomato sauce for the base of the meatloaf.
91:06 >> We got 90 lbs of ground beef here.
91:09 The three main components are the beef, the mixture there, and then the breadcrumbs.
91:13 How many years has this been used?
91:15 >> 40. >> 40 years?
91:16 Yep.
91:16 >> This mixer is older than I am.
91:20 >> This is enough meatloaf to last two to three days.
91:23 So, chefs portion it into tubs.
91:25 >> So, this won't get baked until probably tomorrow.
91:28 We bake uh two off a day.
91:31 >> For Iowa 80 Kitchen size, chefs make a surprising amount from scratch.
91:35 Like their ranch dressing.
91:37 >> >> With 6 gallons of buttermilk, 60 lbs of mayo,
91:42 and nine packets of ranch seasoning. >> to try spreading it around.
91:46 >> Iowa 80 staff also hand-bread and dunk their fried chicken,
91:50 one of the most popular dishes.
91:53 Come 11:00 a.m., they flip the buffet over to lunch.
91:59 Most of the people who stop in to eat are professional drivers who spend
92:03 months at a time on the road.
92:04 >> They enjoy being able to come in and get, you know,
92:06 a a home-cooked meal.
92:08 >> It's tiring.
92:10 We drive 11 hours a day, have a 70-hour work week,
92:13 and I always stop here because I like to shop,
92:15 I like the food court.
92:16 It's one of my favorite truck stops.
92:18 >> A lot of people eat three decent meals a day.
92:20 Well, we're lucky to get one.
92:23 >> Jerry Lenander has been driving a truck for nearly 50 years.
92:27 >> Highway 80 is the real deal.
92:30 I mean, you can sit down for a home-cooked hamburger steak meal.
92:34 >> But there's a lot more than food here.
92:36 >> We have movie theater, we have a driver lounge that has a big TV.
92:40 >> We toured the space with Lee Meyer, the founder's granddaughter,
92:43 and the third generation working here.
92:45 >> Our philosophy is that when our customers are at home,
92:50 they should be with their family, not running all these errands or doing laundry,
92:53 getting a haircut, things like that.
92:56 >> There's also a gym, a chapel, and 24 private showers.
93:01 There's even a dentist on site.
93:03 >> If they're having an emergency on the road,
93:05 they're not going to be able to pull their truck and trailer into, like,
93:08 my dentist's office, you know, in in a town.
93:12 >> They still have the mom-and-pop feel,
93:15 and it's just it's kind of out of the norm.
93:17 >> You can get your truck washed, your dog washed, or your vehicle serviced.
93:22 >> It's a trucker's truck stop, trust me.
93:26 >> So, you said that we can Thank you.
93:28 Uh order anything all day, right?
93:30 >> Thank you.
93:30 Yes, 24 hours a day, breakfast, lunch, or dinner.
93:33 So. >> on the menu.
93:34 >> I know, it's a big menu.
93:37 >> Meaning you can get this giant breakfast plate at 3:00 p.m. like we
93:40 did.
93:40 >> Okay, so you said that this is a fan favorite.
93:43 >> Oh, yeah, the hungry man big deal.
93:46 >> People finish this?
93:47 >> I bet they do.
93:48 I don't know that I've ever seen it, but here we go.
93:50 >> Big dude is coming off a truck with a huge appetite after 10
93:53 hours of driving.
93:54 I could see this being a fan favorite, for sure.
93:57 >> Yeah.
93:57 >> Okay, I actually think I like the sausage better than I like the bacon.
94:00 The pancakes though, they're made with sweet cream instead of buttermilk
94:04 and they had the perfect amount of tang to sweetness.
94:07 That's the best thing on the table.
94:09 Because they there is a crunch.
94:11 Even with all the syrup, there's a little crunch.
94:13 But gooey in the middle.
94:16 Rivaling those pancakes was the meatloaf.
94:19 That had a lot of gravy.
94:21 Let me get a Let me get a good bite.
94:24 It feels like when you're a kid and your mom makes meatloaf.
94:28 That's not a joke.
94:29 Midwest just coziness right there.
94:31 We did come here a lot of Sundays after church with my grandparents.
94:35 So yeah, this is like home cooking for me.
94:39 >> >> Prepping footballs for NFL
94:41 and college games is a job in itself
94:43 and one that can get dirty.
94:47 >> Dan Colson's job is to break in new footballs for quarterbacks on NFL
94:51 and college teams.
94:54 He uses conditioners, heat guns, and mud from New Jersey riverbanks.
95:01 >> Getting the leather the way you want it to is an art form
95:04 in itself.
95:05 But just a few decades ago,
95:06 pro players couldn't always use these customized footballs in games.
95:11 Then in 2006, Tom Brady
95:13 and Peyton Manning helped convince the NFL to change the rules.
95:17 That inspired teams across America to start testing new ways to customize footballs, too.
95:24 But getting one ball ready can take days.
95:27 >> >> So some teams hire outside specialists like Dan.
95:31 Today, he and his wife Emily work out of their home in Bayonne,
95:34 New Jersey.
95:36 Slathering thousands of balls per season, even for the Super Bowl.
95:40 >> Smells like a swamp down here.
95:41 It's terrible.
95:43 >> So why do some teams spend tens of thousands of dollars a year
95:47 on mudded footballs?
95:49 And what does it take to get them all to the field.
95:55 Dan started Gridiron Football Prep in 2021 after losing his job at Wilson Sporting
96:01 Goods.
96:02 He's in the middle of 48 balls for Ohio State,
96:05 the country's most valuable college football program.
96:08 Worth roughly $2 billion.
96:11 >> They've really championed this process of really making a ball
96:15 that is conducive to their quarterback.
96:17 So, what we do is we'll get the ball, come over here,
96:21 get our brush that we use.
96:24 So, you want to brush in circles
96:26 because the grain of the leather might be slightly different per panel.
96:30 What you're doing is you're kind of opening the pores of the actual leather
96:33 itself.
96:38 >> Dan applies his own custom leather conditioner, which adds moisture and grip.
96:53 Then, he uses an infrared thermometer to check
96:56 when it's dried back to room temperature.
96:59 Leather balm loosens and softens the leather even more.
97:03 >> Leather balm is kind of our secret sauce, if you will.
97:07 So, as we compare brand new ball out of the box, conditioned, now balmed,
97:14 ready to be heat gunned.
97:16 >> NFL and college footballs are made from real leather.
97:20 One of the reasons they're up to 10 times more expensive than the average
97:24 ball at a sporting goods store.
97:29 Horween Leather in Chicago has made leather for nearly every NFL
97:33 and college football for the last 70 years.
97:37 >> People ask me who I'm rooting for in the Super Bowl,
97:38 and it's always the ball.
97:40 >> Skip Horween's family opened the business in 1905.
97:45 It's grown from a small shop to a company with roughly $25 million in
97:50 annual sales.
97:52 Horween's leather comes from the hides of steers,
97:55 which are male cattle raised for beef.
97:58 These hides are stronger and more flexible than the ones from other cattle,
98:02 so they can withstand tough conditions on football field.
98:06 >> >> We pay a premium for them, and it's worth it.
98:09 >> Roughly 2,500 hides arrive every day from Iowa and Canada.
98:15 Employees grade each one on a scale of 1 to 10.
98:18 The lower the number, the better the quality.
98:21 Only grades 1, 2, and 3 are used for footballs.
98:25 >> This particular skin has a bunch of fairly heavy scratches on it,
98:29 and that would not be suitable for top-grade football skin.
98:33 >> Then they throw the hides into drums filled with tree bark extract, oil,
98:37 and waxes.
98:39 This transforms them into leather.
98:46 Next, a machine squeezes out excess moisture.
98:56 Then workers throw the hides onto glass panels for 4 hours to dry.
99:01 >> So this whole thing is a giant hot air dryer.
99:15 >> Next is the embossing phase, which gives the football its texture.
99:20 A metal press stamps each hide with up to 1,000 tons of pressure,
99:25 so the pebbles don't fade over time.
99:28 Horween makes eight kinds of football leather and another for NBA basketballs.
99:34 >> Football is is the grippier of the two again
99:36 because you've got your skill players
99:37 that need to be able to handle the ball,
99:39 whether it's catching, throwing, snapping, or kicking.
99:43 >> Workers spray each hide with up to five coats of dye to give
99:46 it a slick finish.
99:48 >> All of the football companies we work with have slightly different pattern
99:53 and slightly different finishes.
99:55 >> Horween ships about 250,000 sheets of finished leather a year, also called sides.
100:02 Skip says sales are strong now,
100:05 but he lost some clients over the years
100:07 as cheaper synthetic leather became more popular.
100:11 Fake leather is a $39 billion industry
100:14 and expected to nearly double in the next decade.
100:18 >> A lot of those retail balls were leather at one time,
100:20 but almost entirely synthetic now.
100:24 >> Skip says making leather for different industries helps Horween survive tough times.
100:29 >> This might be football leather today
100:31 and shoe leather tomorrow
100:32 and jacket leather the next day.
100:37 Not an easy business, look, none of them really are,
100:39 but the idea that I can turn on a game
100:41 and see something that I had a small part in making,
100:45 I just get a kick out of it at to this day.
100:48 >> Skip delivers leather once a week to Big Game,
100:51 a company in Texas
100:52 that makes nearly all the footballs for America's best college programs
100:56 and 3,000 high schools.
100:59 >> Welcome to the football wonderland.
101:01 >> Chris Calandro founded the company in 1993.
101:05 >> I'm a nutty professor type
101:06 and the things that we can change with a football is really limited your
101:10 imagination.
101:13 Very few teams in college football
101:15 and high school football use exactly the same spec
101:17 that we build.
101:20 >> Even the best cuts of Horween leather have small defects.
101:24 So, Big Game starts by cutting around them.
101:27 >> We don't want to build a football
101:30 and get to the end of the line
101:31 and realize it's got an imperfection on it,
101:34 then we pretty much kill the football.
101:37 >> Then workers cut it into four panels,
101:40 which will form the outer layer of the ball.
101:43 >> These are now married together forever.
101:47 >> Unlike NFL teams, colleges are allowed to use different sized footballs.
101:52 >> >> Big Game makes them in three different dimensions, depending on the player they're for.
101:57 >> So, we build things on the larger side if you're a 6'5 pocket passer,
102:01 or if you're a you know, 5'10 dual threat player,
102:05 we might have a smaller ball for you.
102:07 Even at this early stage,
102:09 there's already been two major customizations from the quarterback to what size the ball
102:13 is going to be,
102:15 and the leather that the quarterback chose.
102:17 >> Then they add team logos,
102:20 usually by stamping a metal press on a heated piece of metal foil.
102:30 After some extra fabric and stitching, panels are done.
102:35 But right now the football is inside out,
102:37 and it has to be flipped around by hand.
102:41 >> If you do it the wrong way, you damage the ball.
102:44 Rodney's doing an outstanding job.
102:46 It is a as much about technique as it is about strength.
102:51 I recently beat Rodney in an arm wrestling contest.
102:56 >> Laces come in multiple textures, and have to be added by hand, too.
103:01 >> Some are kind of have this rubbery feel,
103:03 some are sort of have a suede leathery feel.
103:08 It is, I think probably the one thing that quarterbacks are most passionate about,
103:12 um is the way the laces feel.
103:15 >> Eventually, workers stick the football into a wooden mold,
103:18 where a computerized pump inflates it.
103:21 >> And we're using more pressure than is allowed
103:23 so that we can push out all those seams
103:26 and rough spots.
103:31 >> Big Game makes about a thousand balls a day,
103:34 even during the football off-season.
103:37 For $10, an employee will spend a few hours conditioning a ball to make
103:40 it feel broken in.
103:42 >> Some little things to help get it to leather feel great, you know,
103:45 like a nice pair of shoes or a bag or something.
103:52 >> But Dan charges up to $70 per ball because they're customized for specific players.
103:58 >> How do you grip the ball?
103:59 What do you like on the ball?
104:00 Do you want it tackier?
104:01 Do you want it softer?
104:02 Do you want a combination?
104:04 >> Ohio State, his biggest client,
104:07 flies him in each season to meet with coaches and quarterbacks.
104:10 >> Ultimately, it comes down to the quarterback,
104:12 but there are a lot of people
104:13 that are going to have say in it
104:14 because they want to be educated,
104:16 they want to be on top of it.
104:20 >> After Dan's done softening the leather, he applies heat.
104:25 This causes the leather conditioner and balm to bake into the ball.
104:29 >> Too hot, you're going to burn the ball, dry it out.
104:32 Not enough, it's going to be a little gummy.
104:34 We found that sweet spot around 650-700 degrees of a heat gun itself.
104:41 >> Then he coats the ball in mud,
104:43 which blends all the layers and helps protect the grip from rain or sweat.
104:49 >> And again, bring out that richness color that so many people like.
104:52 I like doing it by hand,
104:53 making sure that it's completely being more
104:56 or less massaged into the ball
104:58 and spread evenly throughout.
105:02 Ohio State specifically will ask to try to keep the stripes
105:04 as clean as possible,
105:05 so we don't mud over those stripes.
105:07 That's not for everybody.
105:10 >> Dan himself collects this mud from New Jersey riverbanks.
105:14 >> You really want that milkshake thick milkshake-like consistency.
105:19 >> This is also the smelliest part of the process.
105:22 >> It's an awful smell, specifically if it's raining outside and it's more humid.
105:26 >> It's an acquired smell.
105:27 I wouldn't invite people off the street to come smell it who aren't used
105:30 to it.
105:31 Sometimes it makes you question why you are working from home,
105:34 but at the end of the day it's it's a sign
105:36 that we're we have a lot of business
105:38 and it's thriving.
105:41 >> He lets the mud dry for at least 12 hours.
105:44 Then brushes it clean.
105:50 An electric brush wheel gets deep into the ball's crevices.
105:54 >> You can just run the ball on the wheel itself, get that dust off.
106:03 >> Then one final layer of conditioner.
106:06 There's always those little frustrating dust spots.
106:09 This helps just get
106:11 that off so that it gives it a really clean finished look.
106:17 >> Now, the 36-hour process is done.
106:20 >> You can feel that tack, but it doesn't have any residue on your hands.
106:26 >> Then they box the balls up and ship them.
106:31 >> >> Shout out to Reuben at UPS and Keith, my guys.
106:37 >> Summer is Gridiron's busiest season, but demand stays high throughout the year.
106:43 >> The amount of footballs depends on the weather.
106:44 Rain will kill a football.
106:46 Usually a good equipment manager will have 24 to 48 footballs ready to go,
106:51 and then they'll always send me 24 more so that they're always replenishing.
106:58 >> Back in 2005, NFL quarterbacks couldn't use their own footballs in every game.
107:03 The home team supplied all the balls,
107:05 so visiting quarterbacks were stuck with whatever they were given.
107:08 >> If I have a ball and I have my hand on the ball,
107:10 and it, you know,
107:11 maybe that index finger is slipping a little bit
107:14 or that thumb is not secure,
107:16 right?
107:16 That's what you're going to be thinking about.
107:18 >> Then in 2006, Tom Brady
107:20 and Peyton Manning helped convince the league to change the rules,
107:24 allowing all quarterbacks to use their own footballs on offense.
107:29 This eventually inspired college programs like Arizona State to take football prep seriously, too.
107:36 The team needs 80 footballs for just one practice,
107:39 and it's essential that every single one is broken in.
107:44 For official games, the team's equipment manager, Arthur Huzzard,
107:48 selects 12 of the quarterbacks' favorites.
107:51 >> We give those uh 12 footballs to the referees,
107:53 and the referees like check them, mark them,
107:57 and um make sure we can play with those.
108:00 >> But do these mudded footballs really make a difference?
108:04 Dam thinks they can help keep players focused on the game itself.
108:08 >> You put on a pair of shoes,
108:10 you know they're comfortable because you're not worried about them.
108:12 So, our goal is to have them never think about the security of the
108:15 football.
108:16 When it's in their hands, it's to what they want it to be.
108:20 >> But he says he can't substitute for game preparation.
108:23 >> Guy throws a perfect spiral in the corner of the end zone,
108:27 he probably threw that ball well before he had a ball prepared.
108:30 But, if there's a comfortability to them, hey,
108:33 maybe I had something to do with it.
108:35 The strangest preference I've ever gotten is somebody who literally told me
108:38 that the ball smelled funny,
108:40 and that it bothered him
108:42 when he had it up on his uh you know uh ready to throw,
108:45 and that he was wondering
108:46 if I could do anything to help him with
108:48 that.
108:49 So, we got creative,
108:51 and we literally put like a essential oil in the in the mud,
108:54 and we're like mixing it in,
108:55 so that it had a nicer aroma to it.
108:58 >> Cafeterias were once a culinary staple of the American South.
109:02 And even though running one is hard work,
109:04 some owners are aiming to mount a comeback.
109:09 >> This 70-year-old cafeteria feeds 5,000 people a week.
109:14 Michael Green is the third-generation owner of Matthew's cafeteria in Tucker,
109:18 Georgia. >> 10 lbs of macaroni, which makes 200 servings.
109:22 And that's about the smallest batch I'll make.
109:25 >> In the early 1900s, while diners defined the American Northeast,
109:29 the South had its own institution, cafeterias.
109:33 >> Anybody of a certain age grew up >> >> in the South eating at a cafeteria.
109:39 >> At their peak, thousands operated nationwide with chains like Morrison's
109:43 and Luby's popping up all over the South.
109:46 >> There's actually a section of the phone book for cafeterias.
109:51 >> It is mostly like a Sunday thing.
109:54 Get out of church, got the kids, let's go to the cafeteria.
109:58 >> But in the '90s, cafeteria lines started to dry up and many chains shuttered.
110:03 >> It's not just about food, it's about a community.
110:06 >> For the surviving cafeterias, rising restaurant prices might be sending customers back their way.
110:12 >> As fast food prices keep rising, consumers are looking for better value.
110:16 Sit-down restaurants with bigger portions start to make more sense.
110:19 >> I went to Georgia to find out why these restaurants are getting harder
110:23 to find and to learn how one of the state's oldest cafeterias,
110:26 and one of its newest,
110:28 are fighting to keep their hot bar steaming and communities fed.
110:31 >> This is a really, really hard way to make a living.
110:34 >> Let that basket do the work.
110:35 There you go.
110:40 >> Matthews cafeteria opened up in Tucker, Georgia in 1955.
110:45 At the time, the Atlanta suburb was becoming a manufacturing hub
110:49 and workers stopped in on their lunch breaks.
110:51 >> To the basement.
110:53 >> Michael is still serving them many of his grandfather's original dishes.
110:57 >> We don't even write down recipes.
110:59 There's nothing written down here.
111:01 >> Like these biscuits that Chef Maria has hand mixed and cut for 24 years.
111:07 The mac and cheese was Michael's grandmother's recipe.
111:09 >> Her macaroni was spongy.
111:12 It was casserole-like.
111:14 This is going to be a bit overcooked in some people's eyes,
111:17 but that's how my grandmother did it.
111:20 Al dente is not a Southern American word.
111:22 We are not cooking this al dente. 10 lb of pasta,
111:27 8 lb of cheese, which is the perfect ratio, I think.
111:31 Looks like a lot of milk, but this is a lot of macaroni.
111:35 You got to learn to be ambidextrous in the kitchen
111:37 or you will wear one arm out,
111:39 I can tell you that.
111:40 >> On the other side of the kitchen, chefs tackle a crowd favorite,
111:43 the chicken and dumplings.
111:45 >> She's cutting them now and letting them toughen up just a tad.
111:50 It just gives them a little more resiliency
111:52 when they go into the boiling broth.
111:55 >> Michael's juggling a massive scale with 100 items on the menu each week.
112:01 He also has to choose dishes that'll stay tasty for hours on a steam
112:04 table,
112:05 a classic cafeteria feature.
112:08 Take this rice, for example.
112:10 Michael steam cooks it like you would pasta with extra water.
112:13 That way it stays fluffy.
112:18 Michael's also working within the confines of a cramped, nearly century-old building.
112:23 >> It was not built to be a restaurant.
112:25 Some of my relatives lived here at one point,
112:28 then it was a general store.
112:30 >> Instead of running food up the narrow steps to the restaurant,
112:33 chefs rely on this old dumbwaiter from the 1950s.
112:36 >> And the dumbwaiter was not electric at first.
112:39 It had counterweights.
112:40 It was done by hand.
112:41 Better than walking it up the steps.
112:44 >> But even with this old layout,
112:46 the staff has to keep the restaurant running for 15 hours a day,
112:50 from 5:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
112:53 They open that early for the factory workers who start at 6:00.
112:55 >> It fills a void for people, you know?
112:59 Nowhere else to get breakfast.
113:00 >> Do you all come here often?
113:02 >> Yeah, every day.
113:03 >> Uh, it's been going on 50 years, 50 years.
113:06 >> You have a little breakfast club, I love it.
113:09 Unlike the >> which usually charge a flat fee for unlimited food,
113:13 cafeterias charge per item.
113:16 As you slide your tray down,
113:17 you pick what you want and pay for what's on your plate.
113:20 Look at this bread.
113:22 What's really impressive is all of this was like less than $15.
113:27 Look at this.
113:28 You have the nice crust on the outside,
113:29 but it's soft and pillowy on the inside.
113:31 I mean, come on.
113:33 It's so good.
113:37 Mhm.
113:37 This is like a three-handed job.
113:40 Mhm.
113:41 And some biscuits and gravy.
113:43 Oh my god, look at the sheen on that.
113:48 Mhm.
113:49 That biscuit stayed crunchy.
113:51 I feel like they figured out the science of still being yummy,
113:54 but >> >> sitting out.
113:57 I used to stop at cafeterias on road trips when I was a kid,
114:00 and this feels very familiar and very homey.
114:04 Even though I just got here,
114:05 I just feel sort of like wrapped up in this coziness of a giant
114:08 biscuit sandwich and a big pile of sausage gravy.
114:16 But the day is just getting started.
114:18 In 3 hours, hundreds of people will show up for the lunch rush.
114:22 And Matthews changes its menu every single day.
114:26 On the Tuesday we visited, Michael was finishing up the barbecue pork,
114:30 slow-cooked outback for 12 hours.
114:33 >> Almost falling apart.
114:34 Almost.
114:35 That is some good barbecue right there.
114:38 This is for you.
114:39 These are the best little bits.
114:40 I don't know why they always stick to the great.
114:45 >> Wow.
114:45 >> The sugar almost gets candy-like on the outside.
114:48 Yeah.
114:49 >> That's a beautiful crust to it.
114:52 Friday is for his wife Jenna's chicken and rice casserole.
114:55 >> It was so good that we added it to the menu,
114:57 and I took it and multiplied it by 1,000.
115:00 I mean, literally.
115:02 >> This is a >> Michael actually met his wife here 14 years ago
115:05 during a lunch service.
115:06 >> On the other side of
115:07 that pole is a plaque
115:08 that says where Jenna met Michael.
115:11 And that's where I proposed to her.
115:14 >> But it's not just his wife who has kept Michael coming back all
115:17 these years.
115:18 >> I hated this place as a kid.
115:20 I didn't want to go to work in the summer.
115:23 My friends weren't working.
115:24 They were at the pool.
115:25 >> How's lunch?
115:26 >> And then you get old enough to listen to people
115:30 when they tell you how special,
115:31 for whatever reason, this place is to them.
115:35 And now I get it.
115:36 >> Got to get a spoon.
115:39 >> I love to cook.
115:40 The steam, the sounds, the smells, the energy,
115:44 and the people I get to work with every day.
115:46 I love these guys.
115:47 I do.
115:50 Hey.
115:50 >> What's serving?
115:50 >> Love you, man.
115:54 >> I was even more impressed with the lunch menu.
115:58 Can you hear that?
116:00 Nice and crispy.
116:04 The chicken is still tender inside.
116:06 Next up, I'm going to try these chicken and dumplings.
116:12 Oh, that's so cozy.
116:14 And they let the dumplings firm up
116:15 so that there's a nice kind of like chew to them.
116:18 My favorite thing on the table?
116:20 That mac and cheese.
116:27 Yeah.
116:27 Slaps.
116:27 That's like childhood mac and cheese.
116:29 I can see why this is one of their crowd favorites.
116:32 Both of these trays, for myself and my camera guy, were $47 including desserts.
116:37 Look at that crust.
116:41 And then, strawberry shortcake.
116:45 That's really good.
116:46 It's pretty impressive that so much of this is made from scratch.
116:49 Cuz it's not like that big of a kitchen, you know?
116:52 And I wasn't the only one enjoying it.
116:54 Retired police officer Mike Reagan comes in with all his friends from the force
116:58 every week.
116:59 >> It's kind of like a a community gathering place in Tucker.
117:02 Tucker's still got that small family feel.
117:05 Like small town.
117:06 And when you come in here and eating,
117:08 a lot of people you might not sit with
117:09 and talk to but they always say hey.
117:11 They always say hi.
117:13 >> That community feel is part of why cafeterias were so successful to begin with.
117:19 But they didn't start in the South.
117:22 The earliest recorded one popped up in New York City in 1885,
117:25 right across from the stock exchange.
117:28 Brokers ate and then paid for their food on the honor system.
117:32 In the 1890s, at an exposition in Chicago, the restaurant style was named cafeterias,
117:37 borrowing the Spanish word for coffee shop, cafeterías.
117:42 In 1906, the first California cafeteria chain, Boos Brothers, opened up.
117:47 By 1927, it had six locations in Los Angeles.
117:50 It was nicknamed the cafeteria trail.
117:54 Then the cafeterias started taking over the Southern US.
117:57 They fit the old-fashioned home-style cooking already preferred in the region.
118:03 Their audience only grew after World War II
118:05 as the South urbanized around textile mills,
118:07 car and airplane factories, and shipyards.
118:11 Cafeterias became a go-to for workers who needed cheap,
118:14 filling meals on tight schedules.
118:18 The food was on full display, cutting down on customer complaints.
118:22 Things were cooked in bulk to bring down the cost per serving.
118:26 And the line was set up
118:27 so high-margin sides like desserts
118:29 and salads came first,
118:30 encouraging customers to load up their trays before reaching lower-margin main dishes like meats.
118:37 Morrison's opened up in 1920
118:40 and would become one of the biggest cafeteria chains in America.
118:43 Followed by chains like S&S in Georgia, K&W in North Carolina,
118:47 >> >> Piccadilly in Louisiana, and Luby's in Texas.
118:52 On Sundays, Southern cafeterias filled up with families after church.
118:56 >> Get out of church, got the kids, let's go to the cafeteria.
119:00 >> By the 1960s, cafeterias were all over malls, downtowns,
119:04 and shopping centers in the South.
119:08 But there was tension brewing.
119:12 Cafeterias were segregated in the Jim Crow South.
119:17 In 1961, protesters staged a sit-in at the Anna Maud cafeteria in Oklahoma City.
119:24 In 1964, dozens of black Tennesseans were arrested for protesting a whites-only Morrison's in
119:30 Nashville.
119:32 The chain didn't change its whites-only policy until after the Civil Rights Act was
119:36 passed,
119:37 banning segregation in public spaces.
119:42 Soon, cafeterias faced big competition from fast food.
119:46 By the mid-70s, McDonald's and Burger King had hundreds of locations.
119:51 They were cheaper than a cafeteria line, and they had convenient drive-thrus.
119:54 >> And they have buying power.
119:57 They can offer a sausage biscuit for a dollar.
119:59 I can't.
120:00 It's like the mom-and-pop hardware store competing with Home Depot.
120:04 >> Cafeterias also felt pressure from casual dining chains like Chili's and Applebee's,
120:09 which expanded rapidly in suburban America in the '80s and '90s.
120:14 Then mall traffic began to slow,
120:16 drying up the dependable crowds that had sustained cafeterias for decades.
120:21 Many cafeterias tried to cut costs,
120:23 switching from fresh ingredients to canned and frozen ones,
120:26 but they lost loyal customers when the quality worsened.
120:30 Business was so tough that big cafeteria chains began consolidating and closing.
120:35 Piccadilly bought Morrison's.
120:37 In 2020, Luby's almost went under,
120:40 but a new owner managed to save 32 locations.
120:43 In 2022, Piccadilly bought another chain, K&W.
120:47 But 3 years later it shut down all the remaining locations.
120:51 Piccadilly itself went from 270 locations in 1998 to fewer than 30 today.
120:58 >> The family, everything, yes, tradition, all that is gone.
121:02 All that went out the window.
121:04 >> It breaks my heart.
121:06 >> It's sad.
121:06 It's sad to see things fade into history.
121:11 >> But a newer cafeteria, down the road from Matthews,
121:14 is proving they're not all dinosaurs.
121:17 When a nearby S&S Cafeteria shuttered after 43 years in business,
121:21 Lewis Squires bought its old equipment.
121:23 >> I was so heartbroken by it.
121:25 I thought I could rescue it.
121:28 >> He opened the Magnolia Room, featuring the refurbished cafeteria line, in 2017.
121:33 It has higher prices, a more upscale feel than Matthews, and a wait staff.
121:38 Plus, it's not open for breakfast.
121:41 But the kitchen was still buzzing on a cold Wednesday morning.
121:44 >> You feel the pressure?
121:45 Okay.
121:48 >> >> All right, 3 minutes on that lasagna.
121:51 >> And head chef, Deborah Tardiff, is at the helm of it all.
121:54 >> All right, Serilla, we got all the bread out?
121:57 >> Yeah, it's full.
121:58 >> It's full.
121:58 Thank you, baby.
121:59 Thank you so much.
122:01 Green beans, pinto beans, collard greens, beets.
122:04 I started cooking when I was 9 years old.
122:08 So, this is my passion.
122:09 It comes just like walking now.
122:11 >> She has to keep everyone in line
122:13 because together they'll make 37 dishes for lunch in just 3 hours.
122:18 >> Nobody want to come in a restaurant with cold food.
122:21 I want them running and as you can see, they run.
122:25 They run.
122:26 >> On one end of the kitchen,
122:28 cooks chop all the fresh produce for the salad bar and stewed vegetables.
122:32 >> >> Two people work the fryers, dropping in okra and chicken.
122:36 Deborah's right behind them, singing out instructions.
122:39 >> Now, shake it.
122:40 Yep, let that basket do the work.
122:42 There you go.
122:43 Voila.
122:46 >> >> Over in the bakery section,
122:47 chefs whip up cornbreads and pies piled high with meringue.
122:53 This kitchen might look like a well-oiled machine,
122:56 but before opening the Magnolia Room, Louis didn't have any restaurant experience.
123:01 He worked in Macy's.
123:02 >> I don't know how to cook.
123:04 I mean, I don't like cooking, I don't you know, I don't enjoy it.
123:08 >> But when he noticed
123:08 that a nearby S&S was selling its old equipment at a discount,
123:12 he got into the restaurant business.
123:14 >> It was a fire sale.
123:15 I got all the equipment uh for $24,000, so it was a steal.
123:21 >> >> To duplicate it today would be about $200,000.
123:25 >> And it was a huge gamble.
123:27 >> Foolish looking back on it, I didn't realize how horribly complex restaurants were.
123:35 So, >> >> the journey all along, at least in the early days,
123:38 was should I keep doing this or not, you know, should I just fold?
123:43 >> He chose a shuttered dinner theater
123:45 as the site of his new restaurant
123:47 because of its size.
123:48 >> It was hard to find a building
123:50 that could accommodate a stainless steel 50-ft serving line.
123:57 >> >> It is two 25-ft long sections,
124:01 and the poor thing arrived and it was just sitting on its side,
124:05 like two sections of a beach whale.
124:09 It broke my heart, but now look at it.
124:12 It's back alive.
124:16 >> Since Louis didn't know how to run a cafeteria, he hired people who did.
124:20 >> It's just an entirely different way of of feeding the customer
124:24 and serving the customer,
124:26 and you need people that have had that experience.
124:31 >> He convinced Deborah to leave her post at an S&S in Baton Rouge,
124:34 Louisiana, where she says the food quality had dipped.
124:37 >> They changed so much.
124:39 They got away from the old traditions, though.
124:41 Nobody didn't want that.
124:43 Less guests coming in.
124:46 Less hours.
124:47 >> Lewis found server Sherrell Summers at another S&S in Atlanta.
124:51 And waitress Tenisha Williams from a Piccadilly in Atlanta,
124:55 where she worked for 23 years.
124:57 You're going to get my tray?
124:59 It's pretty heavy, though.
125:00 >> Oh, I know.
125:01 I can handle it.
125:01 >> Look at her.
125:03 Doesn't even flinch.
125:04 >> No.
125:04 >> Thank you.
125:05 >> Not at all.
125:05 >> Thank you.
125:06 >> Yeah, this a happy place to be.
125:08 You know I love it here.
125:09 >> Yeah, I can tell.
125:10 >> Yes, ma'am.
125:12 >> >> Some of Lewis's chefs even brought old recipes from former chains,
125:16 but upgraded them with fresh ingredients.
125:18 Like the pies got real vanilla instead of artificial,
125:21 and butter in place of margarine.
125:24 That's partly why Lewis moved away from the old cheaper cafeteria model
125:29 and started charging more.
125:32 His main dishes on average are 28% more expensive than those at Matthews.
125:37 Despite the cost, the Magnolia Room has thrived, Lewis says,
125:41 because it went back to what made the chain
125:42 so successful in the first place.
125:45 Really yummy food.
125:46 >> All of these cafeterias used to have exceptionally good food on the level
125:52 of what we're serving here.
125:54 But they abandoned it.
125:56 But I will always raise the price before I cut the quality.
126:01 >> And he says people are willing to pay.
126:04 How often do you come in here?
126:05 >> Six to seven times a week.
126:07 And well, with the price of groceries, I don't see much cost difference.
126:13 >> The Magnolia Room's customers aren't the only ones doing the math.
126:16 >> When prices rise, people want to feel like going out to eat is
126:18 worth it.
126:19 >> In 2025, US fast food prices climbed faster than casual sit-down restaurants.
126:24 >> In a K-shaped economy, lower-income consumers are pulling back on spending,
126:29 not eating out as much, and higher-income consumers are still going out,
126:33 but if they're realizing that they're spending 12 to $15 at the drive-thru,
126:37 they're starting to think,
126:38 I could just go someplace
126:39 and sit down and have a better experience for the same amount of money.
126:43 The brands that are offering bigger portions at reasonable prices like Olive Garden,
126:48 Texas Roadhouse, Chili's, they're seeing traffic growth.
126:52 But traditional fast food giants like Wendy's
126:54 and McDonald's just aren't seeing the same momentum.
126:56 And that shift is happening across the industry, not just at casual chains.
127:01 >> For the Magnolia Room, that shift is showing up at the register.
127:04 >> They do all the work.
127:05 All I have to do is enjoy it.
127:08 Nothing in here is canned.
127:10 Nothing saw the inside of a freezer.
127:13 >> Most of the comments we get are
127:15 that it's an excellent value
127:17 because it really is the same level of freshness
127:22 and quality that a fine dining restaurant would order.
127:27 >> Just like the cafeterias of the '50s, Lewis's Kitchen makes everything from scratch.
127:32 >> People can't believe we still do that.
127:34 We run a very good food cost.
127:37 We run a good labor cost and everybody's happy.
127:42 So, this notion that it can't be done in today's world
127:46 because of the high expense of labor is not what I found.
127:51 >> But were Lewis's claims of quality legit?
127:54 I put them to the test.
127:55 First with the fried chicken.
127:57 >> That is some crispy skin.
128:04 Mhm.
128:04 I don't understand how they fried
128:05 that a few hours ago yet it's still
128:07 so crispy and so juicy.
128:09 >> That chicken was an absolute standout.
128:12 >> And look at the size of this piece.
128:14 I mean, that's a whole chicken.
128:16 It's the size of my head.
128:17 We got the chicken pot pie with the biscuit on top.
128:22 That's a power move.
128:23 Instead of dumplings, putting a giant biscuit on on Look at
128:26 that crab stuffed catfish.
128:29 Ooh.
128:33 Woah.
128:33 You get hit with those like really strong Creole spices at the front
128:37 and then that briny note in the back.
128:40 Off a cafeteria line.
128:41 Are you kidding me?
128:43 I'm going to try fried okra.
128:48 Mhm.
128:48 The only thing Matthews might have won on was the mac and cheese.
128:52 It doesn't really have the the cream sauce that we saw at Matthews.
128:56 This is more like soufflé almost.
129:00 Considering how much butter we saw go on top,
129:01 it's kind of silly I'm putting more on, but you know,
129:04 when in the South.
129:07 That's that melt-in-your-mouth pillowiness.
129:10 Oh, it's so yummy.
129:13 And these sweet potato balls were a surprise home run.
129:16 Marshmallow sweet potato, saltines fried together in a bunch of sugar.
129:24 Mhm.
129:24 I don't think I've ever tasted anything like that.
129:26 That feels special.
129:28 So, the Magnolia Room's food was delicious.
129:32 But it also reimagined what a cafeteria could be
129:35 and rebuilt a community around its food.
129:37 One that I was immediately scooped up into.
129:40 >> >> This is just like that you would cook it at home.
129:42 >> Yeah.
129:43 Yeah.
129:44 But you don't have to cook it.
129:45 You just come here and let them cook it. >> here.
129:47 >> I met this couple, Mama Eula and her husband Mr.
129:50 Maddox, in line and they invited me to sit with them.
129:53 >> You're old and antique.
129:55 >> I doubt it. >> 78 and 75.
129:58 >> I'm telling you. >> with the program?
130:00 What's wrong with you?
130:01 >> I'm telling you, Southern food makes everyone look young, I think.
130:06 >> >> You want any gravy on your dressing?
130:08 >> When you come in here, it's warm and it's welcome.
130:11 >> Yeah.
130:11 >> It's like a family.
130:13 It just feel like home.
130:15 >> Yeah.
130:15 >> It really feels like home.
130:16 You know what I mean, you, Matt?
130:18 >> Yeah.
130:18 >> Just like we've been knowing each other what?
130:20 How long?
130:22 >> >> I've known you my whole life, actually.
130:24 >> I'm from the country.
130:26 This is just like some food that you would take off the stove,
130:31 put on your table, and your family would eat.
130:33 >> That's what this restaurant is all about.
130:35 >> This is the caring place.
130:37 And you can be my daughter, too, and you can be my son, too.
130:40 >> I'd be honored.
130:42 Thank you.
130:44 Waitresses hugged the folks who stopped in
130:46 and knew their names
130:47 and orders by heart.
130:49 >> It is wealthy people.
130:51 >> >> It is low-income people.
130:54 It is all racial groups.
130:58 It is old, and it is young.
131:00 I think this food is a great equalizer.
131:03 >> I wondered if Lewis could rescue other failing cafeteria chain locations.
131:08 >> There's a few K&W's that I've seen empty at this time.
131:10 >> I I'm just salivating.
131:12 It's just driving me crazy.
131:14 I'm like, these would be so successful as a Magnolia Room.
131:19 Yeah, so you never know.
131:22 But if this is the only one, this is the only one.
131:25 It does sort of make it special.
131:29 >> Michael doesn't have plans to duplicate Matthew's Cafeteria, either.
131:33 He's focusing on the community that's already there,
131:36 relying largely on hospitality manager Candace Caswell to make people feel at home.
131:42 I caught Candace making little table bouquets with holly from her yard.
131:46 >> A lot of our customers have been coming here forever,
131:50 and some of them are alone.
131:52 >> Yeah.
131:52 >> You know.
131:53 And they don't have anybody,
131:55 so it just kind of makes for a homeier atmosphere.
131:59 >> That's really sweet for you to even think about that.
132:01 >> Aw, well, I love people,
132:04 and uh you know I have a gift of gab, Abby.
132:09 >> >> Matthew's frozen in time has long known
132:12 that it needs to be ready to serve whoever it shows up hungry.
132:26 >> >> You know, everything seems in popular culture to come full circle.
132:30 Bell-bottoms become cool again, haircuts become cool again, and then luckily for us,
132:35 I think we've hung around long enough to where maybe the way we used
132:41 to do things is cool again.
132:43 >> Magnolia Room and Matthews have held onto something the rest of the restaurant
132:47 industry is clamoring for.
132:49 The idea that a meal can still be communal.
132:53 And for the people who keep coming back, >> >> that's worth standing in line for.
132:57 >> Don't give up on us.
132:58 Don't give up on us.
132:59 If you're ever within range of Tucker, Georgia,
133:03 and you want to see the way it used to be done in the
133:06 South,
133:07 and it's still being done right.
133:10 >> There are nannies,
133:11 and then there are Norland Nannies who are trained to give the best care
133:15 under even the most extreme conditions.
133:20 >> Imagine if Mary Poppins fought off attackers.
133:29 Or pulled a car out of a skid.
133:37 These are just two of the skills taught at the UK's prestigious Norland College,
133:41 which has been training elite nannies for over a century.
133:47 But hiring a Norland nanny can cost nearly $200,000 a year.
133:52 Some of their ultra-rich clients include Mick Jagger and the British royal family.
133:57 >> We always get the jokes about what James Bond meeting Mary Poppins.
134:00 It's not about that at all.
134:02 We're not trying to turn them into bodyguards.
134:06 >> But keeping up with global demand, especially from the US, has been hard.
134:10 >> We know, for example, in New York alone,
134:13 uh we had nearly 100 jobs in the past few years,
134:16 uh but we weren't able to fulfill those jobs.
134:19 >> To help address that need,
134:20 the class of 2026 will graduate nannies from the US for the first time.
134:26 But each year Norland accepts only about 100 new students into its four-year program,
134:32 which makes nabbing one of these highly skilled nannies quite rare.
134:37 So, what does it take to be a Norland nanny?
134:40 And is hiring one worth the cost?
134:42 >> Wind the bobbin up.
134:44 Pull.
134:45 Pull.
134:46 Pull.
134:48 Oh, the chaos has begun.
134:50 The chaos has begun.
134:51 >> Meet Roxanne, a second-year student from New Orleans.
134:59 >> Abraca dabra.
134:59 >> She's in a temporary chaperoned placement with these triplets for 6 weeks.
135:04 This is the first time Norland has allowed the filming of one of its
135:07 students on a placement.
135:09 The parents asked that we hide the babies' identities.
135:13 Roxanne started nannying as a side gig to pay her way through university,
135:18 where she pursued a degree in American studies and English.
135:21 >> Oh my goodness.
135:22 >> I just realized this is what I want to do.
135:25 Uh but then obviously there was talk about that not being a career.
135:29 It's always been go into STEM, you know, engineering.
135:32 Do you want to be a doctor?
135:33 Do you want to be an architect?
135:34 And that's when I just kept pursuing my studies in hopes to make a
135:39 career.
135:40 And then when I finished my studies, I went straight back to nannying.
135:50 >> One misconception families often have is that nannies are just glorified babysitters.
135:55 But peek inside any class at Norland
135:58 and you'll see a break from
135:59 that stereotype.
136:03 >> We're trying to raise that awareness,
136:05 give them that that sort of additional insight
136:07 and perspective that will help to ensure
136:09 that they can maximize the care
136:11 and safety of the children
136:13 that they look after.
136:14 >> Although Norland is respected and well-known here in the UK,
136:17 third-year student Emma from Salt Lake City struggled to explain the school to her
136:23 family.
136:23 >> They're like, "What is this?
136:24 What What do you mean you're going to go abroad to be a nanny?
136:28 That's not You're never going to make money."
136:30 >> In the US, nanny salaries vary widely,
136:33 but ZipRecruiter reports an annual average of about $49,000.
136:38 Meanwhile, the average salary of a Norlander who works overseas is a little over
136:42 $101,000.
136:42 >> Strike.
136:42 >> That's a price some families are happy to pay for their child's care
136:49 and safety.
136:50 >> It's just giving them the basic foundations to defend themselves
136:54 while still keeping the the children safe.
136:57 >> Keep it very, very simple.
137:00 And the simpler it is, the easier it is to protect your charge.
137:04 I'm right-handed, so I'm keeping my right hand free.
137:08 I'm protecting my charge.
137:10 Okay?
137:11 The attacker comes forward and goes to a strike.
137:14 Go.
137:16 One.
137:16 I can still put my hand up to defend,
137:19 but I'm keeping my arm up in a defensive manner.
137:23 >> I feel like I've really been able to learn what to do in
137:29 an emergency and be able to kind of know what to look out for.
137:33 >> Hopefully, you don't have to use this, >> Unfortunately,
137:37 I have had an experience where a man tried to take the little girl
137:39 that I used to look after.
137:41 I said, "You need to give her back."
137:42 And he said, "No."
137:44 And so I just I just had to pull her off of him
137:46 while holding onto the buggy where her baby brother was.
137:51 It is scary, but that's why I think parents hire Norlanders
137:55 because we are given
137:56 that extensive training for these worst-case scenarios.
138:02 >> Worst-case scenarios like having to control a car
138:04 while dealing with poor weather conditions
138:06 and slippery roads.
138:14 Students learn advanced driving maneuvers in their third year.
138:28 The program also includes 3 years of specialized training
138:32 and a fourth year of paid employment
138:34 as a probationary nanny.
138:36 The training builds on itself over time.
138:39 Take cooking, for example.
138:41 In year one, students learn the basics.
138:45 Year two challenges them to prepare meals for different dietary needs.
138:50 And year three has them learn advanced baking skills.
138:54 The students will even spend 28 hours on a module called fabric friend.
138:59 >> We were making a fabric friend to help a child through transitions.
139:03 Um, so that might be going to school.
139:06 Um, it could be going to bed at night.
139:08 It could be dealing with their emotions.
139:10 >> Nice way to be creative.
139:12 >> An entire class dedicated to making a toy might seem excessive,
139:16 but students also learn the basics of sewing and mending.
139:21 >> Sewing used to be viewed as quite old-fashioned,
139:23 but in the in today's world of trying to protect our future and sustainability,
139:28 it's now back in vogue.
139:29 That whole idea of repair and recycle and so on.
139:35 >> Practical skills make up about a third of the curriculum.
139:38 First-year student Frankie, from Charlotte, North Carolina, is starting from square one.
139:44 >> Not having worked as a child care professional,
139:48 it's been really nice to have the, you know,
139:50 practice with the basic care skills, holding a baby.
139:53 >> Diaper changing is part of the basic care skills module
139:57 that all first-year students must complete along with hygiene,
140:00 first aid, and car seat installation.
140:04 >> So, always think overlap overlap.
140:08 So, what normally go over your lap goes over the child's lap.
140:11 >> Is that green?
140:12 It's green.
140:14 I did it.
140:16 >> Yay!
140:16 >> I was worried that the course was going to be too difficult for me,
140:21 that I wasn't going to fit in.
140:24 But, I realized very quickly
140:26 that everyone who comes here is the kind of person who would thrive here.
140:30 It's such a British institution.
140:31 It's got such history and heritage behind it,
140:34 and that's a big It was a big draw for me.
140:39 >> The college guarantees paid employment for all its graduates.
140:44 Norland runs its own employment agency
140:46 that collects a one-time placement fee from families.
140:50 >> The funding that we receive from the income generated from the agency is
140:55 used to bursary provision.
140:56 So, we have a very strong commitment to widening participation,
141:00 not least because we want to change our student demographic to reflect the wider
141:04 society,
141:05 but also because we know that the finances can be a big barrier.
141:09 >> It was going to be an investment, but Norland does offer scholarships,
141:13 so that made it possible for me to come as a student.
141:17 >> Norland's tuition is a little more than $27,000 a year for international students,
141:22 almost $4,000 more than it costs UK students.
141:27 All in, that's close to the average annual cost of out-of-state college tuition in
141:32 the US.
141:33 And, it's close to the middle of the range
141:34 that international students pay for the average public bachelor's program in the UK.
141:40 One unique expense is the near $1,300 every student shells out for the classic
141:45 Norland uniform.
141:47 The promise of a high salary directly out of college draws students to apply
141:51 despite the costs.
141:53 >> Within five years of graduating,
141:56 our students who have invested less money than perhaps a doctor might have done,
142:00 are already earning higher than a doctor's salary.
142:03 >> Fresh out of medical school,
142:05 doctors in the UK can expect a basic salary of about 52 to 59,000
142:10 dollars.
142:11 Meanwhile, Norlanders can earn almost 75,000 dollars right after graduation.
142:16 And after a decade of experience,
142:18 salaries for overseas placements can exceed 170,000 dollars, the school says.
142:24 >> When I looked at the curriculum, it was exactly up my alley.
142:27 That's why I think Norland is
142:29 so transformative because they've taken this concept of what used to be the help
142:34 and turned it into an expertise.
142:37 >> Norland's reputation is well over a hundred years in the making.
142:41 >> It's lovely to see how some of the core values
142:43 and core traditions have remained,
142:46 but not necessarily everything.
142:48 >> The school was established in 1892 by infant teacher Emily Ward.
142:53 >> She created the world's first child care training institute in essence
142:58 because she saw all the way back in the Victorian times how important it
143:03 was to have adults who were supporting young children.
143:08 >> These black books contain an account of every student who studied at Norland.
143:12 >> In 1892, there wouldn't be any male names here,
143:16 but now we have male names, non-binary names entered into our books today.
143:21 We're working very hard to try and challenge the stereotype around the Norland nanny.
143:26 >> Even the uniform, which some consider old-fashioned, has evolved.
143:30 >> This is a cohort from 1923.
143:33 This is her uniform.
143:35 We have updated it a little bit.
143:36 You don't have to wear corsets anymore, of course.
143:39 We've made a gender-neutral uniform as well.
143:42 We've retained it because partly because our students really want to wear it.
143:46 But we also think it's very important from a symbolic point of view,
143:50 as well as in terms of helping them to develop their professional identity.
143:54 >> The uniform is a symbol of the Norland ethos.
143:57 Honor its history, but adapt to the times.
144:01 >> And of course since then we've learned so much more about early years development.
144:06 We now know that 80 to 90% of brain growth seems to take place
144:11 more or less in the first few years of life.
144:15 Ooh.
144:15 There we go.
144:16 >> New insights yield new training methods.
144:19 This is Emily.
144:20 >> Come on, Emily.
144:22 >> A virtual baby named after the founder,
144:24 who likely couldn't imagine technology like this would ever be part of her school's
144:28 curriculum.
144:29 These robo babies simulate the demands of infant care
144:32 and teach lessons that might save a real baby from danger.
144:37 >> Um so, the sensor in the neck measures whether you let the baby's
144:40 head go.
144:41 So, for example, I wouldn't do this with a normal child,
144:43 but if we were to simulate a response from Emily.
144:54 >> >> This feels so wrong.
144:56 >> The robo baby is supposed to cry just like a real one
145:00 if it needs a diaper change,
145:01 is hungry, or is too hot.
145:04 But, occasionally there's a glitch.
145:08 >> She apparently has a very good neck.
145:13 >> >> We have made sure
145:14 that over the last 130 years
145:16 that our course remains up-to-date,
145:19 cutting edge, but we've also retained some of those core values,
145:23 some of those core traditional skills and and knowledge that children have always needed.
145:30 >> While some of that knowledge is universal,
145:32 Norland recognizes that the needs of an international family might differ from those of
145:36 a British one.
145:38 >> One of the other things that's changed over the last past few years
145:41 is that we have acquired an international student sponsor license.
145:45 >> After Brexit in 2020,
145:47 Norland was required to apply for a student visa sponsor license to continue accepting
145:52 EU students.
145:53 When the license was granted in 2021,
145:56 Norland started accepting other international students as well.
146:00 >> We know that there are all sorts of different families out there with
146:04 different needs,
146:05 different context, different cultural context, and so on.
146:09 >> Specifically, about 40% of advertised international jobs for Norlanders are in the United States.
146:16 >> We know that we have a large demand for our graduates in America,
146:19 but we're not always able to place them there.
146:22 If we have American students, of course that's ideal.
146:25 >> Despite the global demand, Norland keeps class sizes small.
146:29 >> We're not trying to be like the Beales and keep >> >> keep them rare deliberately.
146:34 The only reason we are
146:35 so small is because of the cost of the course.
146:39 We know that if we were able to roll this out
146:41 and have a thousand plus students a year,
146:44 we certainly have the interest,
146:45 but it's it's not necessarily sustainable in terms of the intense training, the ratios.
146:52 >> More personalized instruction for the nannies means more personalized care for their charges.
146:58 Roxanne's placement with the triplets will put everything she's learned to the test.
147:03 >> You think, okay, do I have enough limbs to do this?
147:05 And then you get innovative.
147:08 Invention is ready.
147:10 >> To rein in the chaos, Roxanne uses a child care principle called attunement.
147:15 >> So, really being connected to the child,
147:18 really understanding their needs not just from a basic level, but an emotional level.
147:24 And I think that has definitely been what's been
147:29 so helpful in these challenging moments.
147:31 And even just looking them in the eyes can calm them sometimes.
147:34 >> Good job.
147:36 Well done, you.
147:37 >> You try to be organized,
147:39 but then you have a million trillion other jobs
147:41 that you literally have to do.
147:43 And then you're like, oh, this, and then I have to do that.
147:45 But you have to have that spontaneity.
147:47 I'm equipped to be able to advise people.
147:50 I know what's happening neurologically.
147:52 I know developmentally what's happening with that child.
147:55 And it's science.
147:57 It is science.
147:58 And I think that's where it's something profound and actually I feel proud.
148:05 I'm like, yeah, you know, I'm going to be a New Orleans nanny.
148:10 >> Most people who train to guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier don't
148:13 complete the program,
148:15 making it one of the most coveted assignments in the US Army.
148:33 >> >> This is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, guarded 24 hours a day,
148:41 365 days a year.
148:46 It's one of the most exclusive assignments in the Army
148:49 and one of the most difficult to attain. 19-year-old Private Joshua Beckman is about
148:58 to take the uniform inspection test.
149:01 It's one of five tests he must pass to earn the coveted Tomb Guard
149:06 identification badge and officially become a sentinel.
149:10 Only 735 Tomb Guard badges have ever been awarded,
149:15 making it the second rarest badge in the Army behind the Army Astronaut badge.
149:20 The active sentinels inspect every detail of Beckman's uniform using a micrometer,
149:26 measuring down to the 64th of an inch.
149:30 Passing the test will move Private Beckman one step closer to becoming a Sentinel.
149:36 If he fails, he could be reassigned away from the tomb.
149:44 >> >> Every year about 4 million people visit Arlington National Cemetery near Washington, D.C.
149:51 Every day they pay their respects at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.
149:56 >> There is this weird feeling that you get when you get out there.
149:59 You have this feeling of bliss that's kind of hard to describe.
150:02 You know, only a select few get to actually feel that.
150:08 >> >> The tomb honors unidentified American service members who died in combat.
150:13 >> For in death, as in life,
150:15 an American needs no name to make him great.
150:18 >> Dedicated in 1921, the tomb contains the unidentifiable remains of three American soldiers
150:26 killed in combat during World War I,
150:29 World War II, and the Korean War.
150:35 >> Halt!
150:35 Halt!
150:35 >> Tomb guards watch the tomb in all weather conditions, extreme cold, heat, and rain.
150:46 >> Ladies and gentlemen, may I have your attention, please?
150:52 I am Sergeant Johnston of the 3rd Infantry Regiment, United States Army.
151:01 Guard of Honor Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.
151:06 The ceremony >> Sergeant Kiley Johnston is the only woman currently serving
151:11 as a Sentinel at the tomb,
151:13 and one of only eight women to ever earn the badge.
151:20 >> Present arms!
151:20 >> What is that like?
151:21 >> Uh, it's an experience.
151:23 I don't feel any different uh any different than the guys
151:25 that are here uh
151:26 and that do the job,
151:27 but it's a definitely realization when people are like, "Wow, only eight."
151:30 And then I kind of take a step back and I'm like, "Yeah, wow."
151:33 I I don't realize such an impact
151:35 that I have on like young women
151:37 and stuff in the military
151:38 or just civilians that come here
151:40 and see,
151:40 so.
151:46 >> Ready.
151:46 Halt.
151:46 >> Was it hard to get to that sentinel role?
151:48 >> It was, yeah.
151:49 It was very hard.
151:49 There was times I didn't think I would make it
151:51 or if I didn't have it in me,
151:52 but yeah, I definitely like pinch myself every day that I'm here, so.
151:56 >> How does it feel that that's up there?
151:59 >> Amazing.
151:59 >> So, it's a huge honor to be a part of this board.
152:01 I mean, all the the other soldiers that I've met throughout, you know,
152:03 throughout training, all the old tomb tomb guards have come down
152:06 and talked to us about everything.
152:07 It's It's absolutely amazing.
152:09 I can't wait to come down in the future with my children
152:12 and and show them the board.
152:15 >> Before they become sentinels,
152:17 soldiers train for 6 to 9 months with a 90% attrition rate.
152:23 Those accepted are allowed to guard the tomb on a temporary basis
152:27 while they train and test to become sentinels.
152:30 In the tests, tomb guards are evaluated on their performance guarding the tomb
152:35 and exhaustive amount of tomb knowledge.
152:38 >> When did the unknown receive the Purple Heart?
152:40 >> 7 August 1976.
152:43 >> And their uniforms.
152:46 It all happens here inside the tomb guard quarters where Private Beckman is preparing
152:53 for his uniform test to be graded by Sergeant Johnston.
152:58 >> So, seeing that, I just uh I know what he's going through,
153:00 so I do think about that when I'm grading him,
153:02 but I don't I don't miss that feeling.
153:04 I don't miss the the nerves the nerves of the day.
153:06 They never go away.
153:08 Never.
153:11 >> Tomb guards in training start the day with a weapons strength test simulating
153:17 the ways they'll hold the nearly 12-lb rifle
153:20 while guarding the tomb.
153:21 >> A lot of the reason we do the weapon strength is
153:23 because even if you go to the gym all the time,
153:25 it's it's awkward.
153:26 You could lift 100 lb in the gym
153:27 and and not be able to hold the rifle up properly,
153:30 sir.
153:30 So, the the weapon strength really does build
153:32 that endurance in the weird little small muscles
153:34 that keep the the rifle centered.
153:37 >> Back when you tested tomorrow?
153:40 >> Yesterday.
153:40 >> Ah.
153:40 >> That kind of works out well then.
153:41 >> Yeah, they didn't see a test, so >> Okay,
153:42 so so you're going to be the star of the the next Business Insider
153:46 video.
153:46 >> And then he's going to fail on the test tomorrow.
153:50 >> >> Sergeant Johnson will be the bad guy.
153:52 >> Yeah, exactly.
153:52 >> We got to be perfect.
153:54 I mean, standard is perfection down here.
153:56 Of course, nothing can be tangibly perfect,
153:59 but you can get it as close as you can.
154:01 >> Back in the Tomb Guard quarters,
154:03 it's rare to see a guard doing anything besides working on his
154:08 or her uniform and the components
154:10 that go with it.
154:11 >> All arts and crafts down here.
154:15 >> Did you have much experience with alterations and steaming?
154:19 >> I did not.
154:20 I learned how to sew a blouse here.
154:23 I learned how to press a blouse here.
154:26 Um usually I had my mom do that stuff for me.
154:28 >> What does your mom think about all your new skills?
154:30 >> Uh she is happy
154:31 that she doesn't have to help me with uh uh ironing my clothes.
154:36 I can kind of do it on my own now, so.
154:42 >> I'm shining my shoes, so we have patent leather shoes down here.
154:46 We'll put coats and coats of polish on our shoes um to get it
154:51 this nice finish that you see.
154:53 It takes a lot of practice to to learn cuz
154:55 when you come down here,
154:56 you don't know like you you might have some practices of uh shining shoes
155:01 with like a microfiber
155:02 and then just forget all of
155:04 that when you come down here.
155:05 >> At what stage are these shoes in terms of where you want them
155:09 to be?
155:09 >> they they need some work trying to get them a little bit better
155:12 to try to go out later this afternoon.
155:14 Every day that you go outside, it it'll destroy the polish.
155:18 So, especially in the heat, the the sun will cook the oils.
155:22 So, you just have to constantly keep up with your shoes.
155:25 I use Kiwi for my build coats
155:27 and then Saphir black for for my shine coats.
155:33 Cheaters.
155:34 These are here and you hear us click our heels.
155:39 It's just two piece of metal screwed in
155:41 and then we have the same on the bottom,
155:43 too.
155:43 So, uh before before I'll go out I'll color these with Sharpie
155:48 so it's it's black
155:49 and on the bottom.
155:50 We kind of roll on the outside of our our foot.
155:53 So, we got that smooth walk.
155:55 And you should just be gliding across.
155:57 If you watch somebody's head while they're walking across the plaza,
156:00 it should just be floating across in in a straight line.
156:02 That standard perfection is always a few steps ahead of us
156:06 and we're constantly chasing
156:07 that.
156:09 >> The Tomb Guards work in shifts,
156:11 changing every 30 minutes during warmer months
156:14 and every hour the rest of the year.
156:17 >> Bells, I'll see you out there.
156:19 >> In the Tomb Guard quarters,
156:21 it's a constant rotation of guards going out and coming in.
156:27 >> That was money.
156:29 >> On the plaza, the Tomb Guard marches 21 steps down a black mat,
156:34 stopping to face east for 21 seconds.
156:38 The guard then marches 21 steps to the other end. 21 represents the significance
156:44 of the 21 gun salute,
156:46 a distinguished military honor.
156:48 >> How hard is it hitting that exact spot and making it 21 steps?
156:52 >> It's actually pretty hard.
156:53 You don't realize the big steps that you have to take,
156:55 especially if you're shorter.
156:56 So, we call hitting blocks outside.
156:58 When you're walking down the mat, it should be what we call three blocks.
157:01 So, the single block, one step, the bigger blocks, two steps.
157:04 So, really striding it out to hit those blocks outside.
157:08 >> Private Beckman isn't on the schedule today.
157:11 He's about 12 hours away from his uniform inspection test.
157:15 >> The color is not going to change.
157:16 It's just the chest that's going to change.
157:18 >> With more than 100 possible deficiencies or gigs that can be counted against them,
157:23 it's one of the most difficult tests the trainees must face.
157:27 >> I'm sure that'll be fine.
157:28 >> Testing criteria-wise, it's all dependent on the grader.
157:32 A grader could say, "Oh, this looks good."
157:34 Another grader could say, "Oh, this looks like crap.
157:36 Like this sucks."
157:37 >> So, right here I'd say it's it's fairly money.
157:40 And then you got to measure it from this side right here, this edge.
157:45 You got to measure it to the gold again.
157:48 And I'm getting 15 ticks.
157:51 Yeah, I've had this checked like six times by this like six different sentinels.
157:54 So, this is hoping this is going to be right on the money.
157:59 >> Cuz the standard is perfection.
158:01 >> Yes, sir.
158:01 All the time.
158:02 Noth- nothing nothing but perfection.
158:05 And then anything less than is is you can't have it.
158:09 Any trainee who doesn't meet the standard
158:11 or doesn't actively try to meet the standard kick him to the curb.
158:16 >> Sentinels in training are held to high standards,
158:20 but even more so are the sentinels themselves.
158:23 The Tomb Guard badge can be revoked,
158:25 which happens if it's determined a sentinel has dishonored the badge with their conduct
158:30 during or after their army service,
158:33 which can occur after a criminal conviction.
158:39 >> Is the weapon ever loaded in the context of guarding the tomb?
158:44 >> I can't disclose that, sir.
158:46 That's something that we we like to keep under wraps just for I don't
158:51 know,
158:51 the security purposes behind it cuz we don't want anyone thinking
158:53 that they can come on the plaza
158:55 and do whatever they want cuz they cannot.
158:57 We will not let them.
158:58 >> Yeah, I have to.
158:59 These are too big for me, so.
159:00 >> Tomb Guards wear sunglasses, but not just to protect their eyes.
159:05 >> We have the sunglasses
159:06 so we we can look around with our eyes
159:08 as well,
159:08 even though our head is is straight forward.
159:10 So, I'm looking around with my eyes at that time,
159:11 just making sure that I I don't see anybody looking like they want to
159:14 jump the chains and rails
159:15 or no one no one's being loud
159:16 or disturbing the peace.
159:19 >> >> Our cameras did not capture any incidents,
159:22 but many clips online like this one show tomb guards admonishing visitors who break
159:27 the rules.
159:28 >> Remain behind the chains and rails.
159:32 >> Why did you join the army?
159:34 >> When I was When I was a baby,
159:35 it's probably not a great parenting advice,
159:36 but when I was a baby my dad used to watch Band of Brothers
159:39 while he was feeding me.
159:40 So, I grew up with the 101st Airborne
159:43 and I was looking at those guys
159:44 and I was like,
159:44 man, that's cool.
159:45 I was first day of in-processing into our battalion,
159:49 they let us know like, hey,
159:51 the two platoon sergeants going to come up here
159:53 and he's going to ask
159:53 if anyone here is interested.
159:54 I was the only one who raised my hand.
159:56 And he brought me down and showed me quarters.
159:58 Here's Private Beckman, he's 6'3", and the assistant sergeant of the guard was like,
160:02 yeah, that sounds good, we'll we'll we'll take him.
160:05 >> Like the 6'3" Beckman, most of the tomb guards we encountered are also tall,
160:11 and that's by design.
160:12 >> Is there a height requirement?
160:14 >> Uh there is a height requirement, sir.
160:15 It's 5'10" for males and then 5'9" for females.
160:18 It gives a good image uh for the US Army,
160:20 it shows that we have fit and disciplined soldiers.
160:22 >> Do you guys have like a signal or tomb guard basketball team?
160:26 >> Uh we don't, but we should we should probably get on that.
160:33 >> The next morning, it's time for Beckman's uniform test.
160:37 >> Got some sleep last night, which was nice.
160:39 >> How much?
160:41 >> Probably not enough.
160:44 >> >> You'll get your entire ensemble of uniform items.
160:47 You have to put it all together in a way that keeps its integrity.
160:51 You have to just stand there for however long,
160:53 just having the sentinels judge every little thing on your uniform,
160:56 and they will find every little thing.
160:58 Like, I thought I was getting a little deduct, no.
161:00 No, these people are nuts.
161:03 >> What is that?
161:05 >> This sir?
161:05 >> Yeah.
161:05 >> This is our fat man's belt.
161:07 Uh, we don't wear traditional belts.
161:09 We wear this to in place of belt and provide back support.
161:16 >> Now, I'm going to be here for the next hour.
161:19 No moving.
161:20 Did you have coffee or anything?
161:22 I wish.
161:24 >> All right, tell me if it starts burning your arm.
161:25 >> No, I'm going to need to flatten out.
161:28 Pain's only in my >> Cringe.
161:34 >> All right, Beckman, you're going to be taking your front test for test two.
161:38 >> Are you ready?
161:43 >> Sure.
161:43 Is it okay?
161:44 I feel like >> Yeah, you're going to pass out or anything.
161:46 >> I probably will all right.
161:48 >> So, you >> The inspection is scheduled to last about 40 minutes.
161:58 The sentinels take note of any perceived deficiencies
162:01 or gigs that might be counted against him.
162:15 At about the 35-minute mark, Beckman appears to feel faint.
162:20 >> It's all it's getting all fuzzy.
162:33 >> >> Like when your vision gets all cloudy?
162:35 It was getting that.
162:36 It was like if I don't take a seat,
162:38 I'm going to I'm going to drop.
162:40 And then I'd face plant into a table.
162:43 And that would not be very Tomb Guard of me.
162:53 >> We're talking amongst like the sentinels wondering
162:55 if we should finish this test um due to him not being able to
162:58 stand that long.
162:59 So, that's another requirement is
163:00 that he should be able to to meet
163:02 that stand.
163:05 Um So, yeah.
163:06 >> What happened?
163:07 >> Uh he just is feeling light-headed, feeling a little dizzy.
163:10 >> That's a major give away.
163:10 We're probably going to cancel the test at this time.
163:12 And then he'll be able to test again at a later date.
163:14 But, I mean it's it's probably unsafe for him to go out the door
163:16 later today and that's part of the testing requirements.
163:19 And then let alone just he didn't stand I mean that's one of the
163:22 major things you have to stand at attention for
163:23 that time.
163:24 So, he's he's a major give away this time.
163:34 >> >> Uh all right, Magnus.
163:37 Unfortunately, we're not going to be able to continue testing you.
163:39 Not an easy decision because we want you to take test two,
163:43 but with you feeling the way you're feeling we can't send you out the
163:46 door confidently.
163:47 And not being able to finish the whole stand of the uniform test.
163:51 We know it's a long time, but you know,
163:53 it's it's just the way it is.
163:54 Everyone has to do it.
163:55 Everyone has to go through it.
163:55 Um >> If I were to I I don't I don't know what that means.
164:01 Never mind.
164:01 I don't know what it >> You're good.
164:03 I mean you'll be you'll be taking test two again soon eventually.
164:07 Just relax.
164:08 We're just looking out for you.
164:11 >> Make sure you drink water.
164:11 >> Eat.
164:11 Drink water.
164:19 >> >> Just go to straight back and change your uniform.
164:23 >> How much time did he have left?
164:25 To stand at attention?
164:26 >> I'm not going to lie, he probably only had probably not even five minutes.
164:30 I was almost done.
164:38 >> >> Hey.
164:38 Hey.
164:38 How you doing?
164:39 This is my fault.
164:41 I'll own it.
164:42 Uh I didn't I should have taken more time for myself this four day
164:47 and and eaten and done more to prepare my body not just focus entirely
164:52 on the uniform,
164:53 but uh uh a failure happens.
164:58 This place, failure is very common.
165:00 So, being able to being able to re-analyze it,
165:04 come back in it next next test with fresh sense of of things I
165:09 need to do is it's going to be We're going to be good.
165:12 We're going to have We're going to have a good test.
165:16 So.
165:16 >> Sergeant told me that you only had about uh 5 minutes left.
165:21 Uh is he uh standing at attention?
165:25 >> Definitely failing Failing sucks.
165:27 It's not something that anybody says they like doing or that they enjoy,
165:34 but I'd rather I'd rather fail at the beginning
165:39 and know what I failed at
165:41 and then come at it better than let's say I were to get the
165:44 entire way through the day,
165:46 get everything done, and then fail.
165:51 >> >> After failing the uniform inspection,
165:54 Beckman will not walk as a tomb guard for the rest of the day.
166:06 >> >> Instead, performing duties like moving a chain to allow the guards to
166:11 enter and exit the plaza.
166:25 >> >> Very unfortunate, but I guess it will take it.
166:27 We'll learn from it.
166:27 We'll get better.
166:28 I'll get the gigs for my uniform today.
166:31 And then we'll use
166:32 that to make sure my stuff's perfect next time. >> >> 40 days later,
166:42 Beckman got his second chance.
166:44 This time, he passed.
166:51 >> >> He's back on the plaza guarding the tomb.
166:56 And his journey toward officially becoming a sentinel continues.
167:08 >> Ultramarine blue is the most expensive paint in the world.
167:12 Making it requires mastering the techniques for extracting pigment from lapis lazuli rock.
167:20 This is the most expensive blue paint in the world.
167:25 It comes from these lapis lazuli rocks extracted from mines in Afghanistan.
167:30 But you can't just crush up lapis lazuli
167:33 and turn it into paint like you would with many other natural pigments.
167:38 It takes a laborious process to create the color called ultramarine blue.
167:43 We found it priced
167:44 as high as $460 for a 225 ml tube of oil paint.
167:50 That was on sale.
167:52 This identically sized tube of synthetic ultramarine costs only $19.
168:00 Lapis lazuli pigment has been expensive since ancient times,
168:04 but modern-day artists have the option of a much cheaper alternative.
168:09 So, why do some still favor the natural stuff?
168:12 And why is it so expensive?
168:18 The first step in turning lapis lazuli stone into paint is to crush it.
168:24 Next, keep crushing it.
168:27 >> Sometime I sneeze and it's blue.
168:29 I mean, it's uh uh my hair, uh they would be all blue.
168:35 >> Pigment maker Muhammad Irfan's goal is a fine powder.
168:39 But not too fine,
168:40 or else he will have a difficult time extracting the bright blue lazurite from
168:44 the other minerals in the stone.
168:47 If the lazurite isn't pure enough, you end up with a muddy grayish color,
168:51 rather than the true blue ultramarine is known for.
168:55 That's because the lapis lazuli rock contains a mixture of minerals
168:59 that left in the mix can dilute the color of the finished product.
169:04 >> Can you see the blue blue parts?
169:06 So, it's all lazurite.
169:08 It's lazurite, pyrite, silicate.
169:12 So, the our job is to remove all those impurities and just extract lazurite.
169:20 >> But isolating pigment isn't easy.
169:22 When Business Insider visited Muhammad's workshop in Canada, he showed us the Cennini method,
169:28 named after the Italian painter who most famously described it.
169:32 It's one of the oldest
169:33 and most labor-intensive ways to turn lapis lazuli into Fra Angelico,
169:38 the purest ultramarine blue pigment.
169:41 It takes longer and produces less pigment than other methods,
169:45 so it's usually reserved for specialty orders.
169:48 >> We extract lazurite by Cennini method
169:50 when we are supplying to different museums
169:53 and for the restoration projects.
169:55 >> What separates the Cennini method from other methods is
169:58 that the powder gets turned into a dough.
170:02 Muhammad heats the lapis lazuli powder with beeswax, pine resin, mastic gum,
170:07 and linseed oil.
170:09 >> See like this one, mastic.
170:11 So, when I'm doing this, I I I sometimes start eating them, you know,
170:16 it's so good.
170:25 >> Traditionally, the mixture is stored for a week and kneaded every day.
170:30 Instead, Muhammad rolls his dough into little balls
170:32 and lets them dry for two
170:34 or three days.
170:35 >> Wow, it smells so good.
170:38 This reminds me, you know, actually I was raised in Pakistan,
170:42 the north of Pakistan, with pine trees.
170:46 All over you can see the pine trees,
170:47 and I can It feels me when I'm smelling this one,
170:51 it looks like I'm in that area of my childhood where I grown up.
170:56 I used to make long sticks and then extracted with hand,
170:59 but I don't use hands now.
171:02 I have another machine.
171:03 >> This is an even bigger deviation from Cennini's original method.
171:07 He specified that the pigment should be washed out of the dough by hand,
171:11 specifically the hands of a young girl.
171:15 Mohammed's method is mostly hands-free,
171:17 opting for a ball mill
171:19 that tumbles the dough balls with steel balls
171:21 and hot water.
171:24 >> They will push each other, and you know,
171:25 it will create a um it will help to take out these lazurite.
171:31 It will make them soften,
171:32 and so the lazurite is going to come quickly and easily.
171:39 >> After about 2 hours, the lazurite will be pulled into the water,
171:43 leaving the other minerals stuck in the dough.
171:53 >> If I remove this water, you can see this.
172:04 This is all fine and delicate.
172:06 But, it need washing five, six more times.
172:10 >> After the final wash, Mohammed will run the drained pigment through a dehydrator.
172:16 And in about 2 hours, it's ready to use.
172:20 >> So, now you can see this is a beautiful color,
172:25 and I'm really happy with the results.
172:27 >> It's not much.
172:29 >> See, with with the with the 400 g of using lapis lazuli,
172:34 we only got this much.
172:36 And this is around 20 to 30 g.
172:41 This size of the jar of Fra Angelico Cennini, it sells around $190.
172:48 >> Muhammad's company Demiro produces 4,000 to 5,000 lb of lapis lazuli pigment every
172:55 year,
172:55 mostly using a secret method that he took 6 years to develop.
173:04 While the Cennini method can take up to 4 days to produce 1 kilo
173:08 of pigment,
173:10 Muhammad's method yields up to 20 kilos in a single day.
173:13 >> That's for the bulk orders.
173:15 Like Michael Harding, he we supply to him,
173:18 so his orders are usually like 200 to 400 kilo.
173:22 So that we cannot extract by the Cennini method.
173:25 >> Muhammad has spent nearly his whole life thinking about lapis lazuli.
173:30 He grew up in Pakistan on the border of Afghanistan,
173:33 the region where most of the world's lapis lazuli comes from.
173:38 >> I think I was 7
173:39 or 8 years old
173:40 and someone brought lapis >> >> rough to show to my grandfather.
173:45 And at that time when I saw lapis,
173:48 I got so fascinated with its pyrite and the color and I thought like,
173:53 "Oh, what is this?"
173:55 >> These days, you don't need funding from the Pope to afford a version
173:59 of ultramarine blue.
174:01 Artists can now use a cheaper synthetic option.
174:04 Today, it sometimes costs 24 times less than the natural stuff.
174:08 And while the two varieties are mostly identical,
174:11 artists will still reach for the pricier natural one for certain occasions.
174:17 >> Lapis lazuli has a crystalline structure, so it reflects light.
174:21 And the synthetic one, it absorbs more light.
174:25 So that's when you see the difference of synthetic after painting.
174:30 It's like the lapis is going to be more brilliant,
174:33 more vivid than the synthetic one.
174:37 >> Some artists like the textural quality a natural pigment provides.
174:42 There's also simply the bottom line to consider.
174:45 >> It adds value to their artwork.
174:48 So, when they're using synthetic,
174:50 if some someone is selling a painting for let's suppose $1,000.
174:56 But, when they use lapis lazuli pigment,
174:59 >> >> they can sell the same painting for $5,000.
175:03 >> To turn the pigment into paint, Muhammad mixes it with oil.
175:07 >> It's so smooth >> >> that even I haven't used it.
175:11 It mix so well if it's made properly.
175:16 You don't need to do the use the muller.
175:19 I use walnut oil um for when I'm checking because it's not so yellow.
175:25 So, it's really give me the real it's shades
175:28 and color and I can check its quality.
175:32 For the last 10 years, the demand has gone so up.
175:35 Even individual artist and plus the companies.
175:39 And especially the last three,
175:40 four years because of the AI I see the big demand for the real
175:47 artwork now.
175:48 So, our target is to make it available for everyone.
175:52 So, they can So,
175:53 we can share the beauty of this beautiful rock and pigment to with everyone.
176:00 >> Lobsters are synonymous with Maine,
176:02 but lobster migration is adding a new challenge to this hands-on industry.
176:10 Shelling a lobster claw takes quick hands and a good knife.
176:15 Maine traps 90% of America's lobsters, but 100 million pounds every year.
176:21 >> That one right there is going to look real good on somebody's dinner plate.
176:25 >> But for decades, lobsters along the East Coast have been shifting north
176:29 as waters get hotter. >> 25 years ago this time of year,
176:33 this bay would have been full of boats and traps.
176:35 I'm the only boat hauling here today.
176:37 The population of lobsters up in here has definitely changed.
176:42 >> That's a problem because many of the fishermen here only catch lobsters.
176:47 >> I think there's always risk associated with putting all of your eggs in
176:51 one basket.
176:54 >> For 7 months of the year,
176:56 Stephen and his brother Dan set sail in the dark to pick up bait.
177:01 >> I'm 57.
177:03 He's 55.
177:04 But basically every dollar I've made has come out of the water right here
177:07 since I was 12 years old.
177:10 >> As they motor out to their first set of traps, Dan preps that bait.
177:19 Just as dawn sets in, the work takes off.
177:23 And it doesn't stop.
177:26 Stephen and Dan will empty over 300 lobster traps today.
177:31 Six traps are strung along one line or trawl.
177:34 Color-coded buoys, like Steve's orange and blue ones, mark either end.
177:39 A winch pulls in the line
177:41 and Steve hauls the 40-lb traps on board.
177:46 >> You get pinched pulling them out of the traps.
177:47 What hurts is when you slam your elbow onto it
177:50 and moving your arm out of there.
177:53 >> The team throws back any bycatch or species that aren't lobsters, like these crabs.
177:58 >> We don't keep anything we can't sell.
178:01 >> They also toss back any lobsters
178:03 that are too big
178:04 or too small to be legally harvested.
178:08 >> It has to be at least 3
178:09 and 1/4 in from the back of the eye to the back of the
178:12 shell.
178:13 That's that's legal.
178:13 That's big enough.
178:15 If it's larger than 5 in it has to go back.
178:20 >> If they come across a female with eggs, like this one,
178:23 that's also protected by law and has to be thrown back.
178:27 They clip a V-shaped notch into the tail to let other fishers know this
178:30 lobster had eggs.
178:32 >> But if you don't leave stuff in the water for the future,
178:35 you won't have a fisher.
178:37 >> Dan fills the empty traps with bait.
178:40 Acadian redfish, menhaden, and pork fat.
178:43 >> What we're giving them is their junk food.
178:45 It's like walking by a donut shop
178:46 and smelling the donuts cooking
178:48 so you go in.
178:49 >> Then they push the first trap back into the water to catch some more.
178:54 They have to be careful not to get caught up in
178:57 that line as it whips by.
178:59 That rope is one of the most dangerous parts of lobstering.
179:03 It's why these guys carry a knife in case the rope pulls them overboard,
179:07 they can cut themselves free.
179:09 >> He could fall off the stern in like 3 minutes before I realized
179:12 he went overboard and that's not like I was ignoring him.
179:14 It's just that I'm doing other things.
179:16 >> Once the traps are safely back in the water,
179:19 Stephen and Dan slide rubber bands around the claws of their latest catch.
179:23 >> We try to bend the hard shells first sometimes cuz they'll bite the
179:26 other ones.
179:27 I have to pay for everything except for the bands.
179:29 The dealer will give us the bands.
179:32 >> Steve drops them into the tank below so they'll stay kicking.
179:35 You want a lobster to stay alive all the way until it's cooked
179:39 so bacteria doesn't grow.
179:41 Because they get paid by the lobster,
179:43 the team keeps a tally from each buoy line.
179:47 >> Two.
179:47 Going to be a long day, Dan.
179:49 >> They want to catch at least 10 lobsters from one trawl
179:52 or about 2 lb a trap.
179:54 >> Anything under a pound is real bad.
179:57 Even when we're having a bad day and we're not catching much,
179:59 look where we are.
180:00 I'd much rather be here than stuck in an office somewhere.
180:05 >> But for the last decade or so,
180:07 rumors have swirled that Maine's lobster population could be at risk.
180:12 Scientists track the East Coast lobster stock by the total weight of the population,
180:17 what's called the biomass.
180:19 >> If you were to pinpoint a location where you could sort of balance
180:24 that biomass on your fingertip,
180:26 that would be the center of gravity.
180:28 >> In the 1970s, lobster center of gravity was actually right off Long Island,
180:33 New York.
180:34 Because of warming water, the population collapsed there.
180:37 The center shifted north towards the stronger population off southern New England.
180:42 But soon, the same thing happened there, and that population collapsed.
180:47 By the late 2000s,
180:48 the center had shifted all the way to the Gulf of Maine.
180:52 Fishermen here experienced a surge in the lobster population.
180:56 By 2016, lobster landings had hit a record high of 132 million pounds
181:02 and made up almost half of what was caught in Maine.
181:07 Before this boom, fishermen here caught everything from herring and mussels to scallops.
181:13 >> Lobster became such a financially productive activity during the boom of our landings,
181:19 and most fishermen focused exclusively on lobster.
181:23 >> In the 2010s, going all in on lobster seemed like a safe bet
181:26 for fishermen.
181:28 They could earn more than any other species,
181:30 and lobster's price stayed high despite soaring supply.
181:34 >> >> I think there's always risk associated with putting all of your eggs
181:38 in one basket,
181:39 and that's essentially the situation we've created.
181:42 >> But now the population is shifting again, farther offshore.
181:47 Lobster eggs in warming waters inshore aren't surviving at the rates
181:51 that ones in cooler waters are.
181:53 Because the Gulf of Maine is warming faster than 99% of the world's oceans,
181:59 people have been worried what happened in New York
182:01 and New England would happen here.
182:05 But scientist Kathy Mills says there's still hope.
182:07 >> We have conservation measures in place
182:11 that are buffering some of the effects of warming temperatures.
182:15 >> Measures like maximum size limits introduced in the 1930s
182:19 and V-notching in the 1940s.
182:21 >> The conservation measure to protect egg-bearing females is almost a century old.
182:26 >> These have helped slow lobster's decline off Maine.
182:30 See how in the last few decades the center of gravity hasn't moved
182:33 as far as it did in the 70s,
182:35 80s, and 90s?
182:37 Not only does Steve throw back lady lobsters,
182:39 but his traps are also set up so small ones can escape.
182:43 >> So the kitchen is where the food is.
182:45 You got two doorways in
182:47 and then this is the parlor back here where they're all hanging out after
182:50 they eat.
182:52 Every trap has three, sometimes four vents.
182:55 These vents are designed to let the lobsters out that aren't legal size.
183:00 >> While these catch limits in Maine have helped,
183:03 they probably won't stop the population from shifting completely.
183:07 >> The population will not collapse.
183:09 It will decline, but to levels that we've experienced in the past.
183:13 >> Like most scientists here,
183:14 Cathy's team predicts the center of gravity will keep shifting north in the future.
183:18 And as lobsters move offshore, so too do the lobstermen.
183:23 Small boats like Steve's
183:24 that stay close to the coastline are increasingly being replaced with big ones
183:29 that go lobstering 30 miles out for days at a time.
183:33 But big boats aren't investment most young lobstermen can't afford.
183:37 Even a small rig like this takes a lot of money to operate.
183:41 >> The traps and the buoys and the rope,
183:43 probably looking at about a hundred sixty thousand dollars if everything was brand new.
183:49 Am I worried about the the younger generation?
183:51 And I am because we've done everything we can to keep a fishery for
183:56 them.
183:56 The stuff that we can't control, we can't control.
184:02 >> Yeah, I'm in Bowdoin.
184:05 Yeah, Roger that.
184:06 Just checking.
184:07 >> On small boats, lobstermen like Steve
184:09 and Dan will go out for just the morning
184:11 and pull into the Portland dock around noon.
184:15 They sell their catch to Luke's Lobster at $6.50 a pound for hard shell
184:19 and $5.50 for soft shell
184:21 or ones that have recently molted.
184:30 Ward Peck runs the tank room.
184:32 His team grades the lobsters based on weight
184:34 and quality as they come off the boats.
184:37 Ones with two full-grown claws get a higher grade.
184:40 >> Uh so, you can tell this one lost this claw.
184:43 So, you wouldn't want to pay $50 for this on your plate.
184:50 >> They also sort them by the hardness of their shells.
184:53 If you squeeze a soft shell,
184:55 you can feel water inside because there's still room for the lobster to grow.
184:59 It also means there's less meat.
185:01 Those can only be sold to local markets before they spoil.
185:05 A hard shell though?
185:06 >> It's like a bullet.
185:08 There's no water in here.
185:09 The higher proportion of meat to shell in a hard shell lobster.
185:13 >> Hard shell lobsters will fetch a bit more
185:15 because they survive longer
185:17 and they can be exported out of the state.
185:20 >> Here's something that you you would pay good money for at a Manhattan restaurant.
185:25 Uh the it has a crusher claw and has a pincher claw.
185:29 The crusher claw is bigger.
185:31 Pincher claw is more narrow. 3-lb lobster,
185:33 I would not want to get my finger in in their crusher claw,
185:37 that's for sure.
185:38 >> He's seen some pretty lobsters through all his years of grading.
185:42 >> This guy's more of an albino and this this guy is like the calico.
185:46 He's albino in spots.
185:48 When they're this color, they look prehistoric to me.
185:51 Apparently, no matter what color they are when they're alive, once you boil them,
185:55 they all turn red.
185:57 >> From here, Ward will drop them off at Luke's Lobster's restaurant next door
186:01 or send them to the company's processing facility,
186:03 about 20 minutes away.
186:06 Pablo Morales Rodriguez is working to bring pulque, a traditional Mexican alcoholic beverage,
186:12 to a new audience.
186:15 This is the agave plant from Mexico.
186:18 It's used to make two of North America's most popular spirits, tequila and mezcal.
186:26 It's also the main ingredient in one of Mexico's oldest fermented drinks, pulque.
186:34 Pulque isn't nearly as popular as the other two,
186:37 but that wasn't always the case.
186:39 In the late 1800s, pulque was Mexico's most consumed alcoholic drink.
186:45 But because of false rumors, its reputation as a drink for the poor,
186:50 and competition from the beer industry, pulque almost completely disappeared.
187:01 >> >> Now, young Mexicans are fueling a renaissance of the dying drink.
187:06 But, can pulque become a global hit like tequila and mezcal?
187:11 And how, against all odds, is it still standing?
187:17 Between tequila, pulque, and mezcal, pulque is the oldest,
187:22 dating back at least 2,000 years.
187:25 Even though all three drinks are made from the agave plant,
187:28 the way they are made makes them taste different.
187:31 Mezcal gets its smoky flavor from roasting the heart, or the piña,
187:36 of the agave plant, while the tequila gets its sweet fruitiness from steaming it.
187:41 Both liquors also have complex distillation processes
187:45 that can take weeks to complete
187:47 and result in spirits
187:48 that contain as much
187:49 as 55% alcohol.
187:53 Pulque, on the other hand, is made through natural fermentation,
187:56 which gives it a slightly sour taste and a much lower alcohol content,
188:01 around 4%.
188:06 >> I haven't tasted anything quite like pulque.
188:09 Something like it's slimy, a little bit thick,
188:12 a little bit heavy on the on the gut, but yet it's so tasty.
188:16 >> Pulque is also much simpler to make than tequila or mezcal,
188:20 but producing it still requires the skilled hands of an expert.
188:25 And Pablo Morales Rodriguez knows exactly what to do.
188:30 He's been producing pulque in the town of Omealco de Bonfil in central Mexico
188:35 for the last 8 years.
189:04 >> >> The secret lies in precisely when to cut the agave,
189:07 or maguey as it's locally known.
189:14 Pablo has to cut the plant at just the right age to extract the
189:18 best aguamiel,
189:19 the sweet sap the agave secretes that ferments into pulque.
189:24 If he cuts the agave too early, it could produce low-quality aguamiel.
189:29 If he cuts it too late, the agave might not produce any sap.
189:35 Pablo uses a metal tool to scrape the heart of the agave.
189:50 >> The agave is typically left to rest for anywhere from 3 months to
189:54 a year to secrete enough aguamiel to fill the cavity.
190:01 But beating the bugs has made this more difficult for Pablo.
191:07 >> >> After 3 months, it's time to extract the aguamiel from the agave.
191:12 Pablo places an empty bottle with a hose into the cavity.
191:49 >> This technique has been used by pulque producers, known as tlachiqueros, for centuries.
191:55 Traditionally, they would use a hollow gourd called an acocote for this step.
192:02 But Pablo says using an empty bottle is more convenient.
192:12 Once the cavity is empty,
192:14 he scrapes the sides again to stimulate more aguamiel production.
192:20 At this stage, the average agave plant can produce anywhere from 4 to 6
192:24 L of the sap a day.
192:28 Pablo collects it two to three times a day.
192:30 But unpredictable weather makes it more difficult.
192:33 If rain gets into the cavity, it could spoil the aguamiel.
192:53 Despite the challenges, Pablo says his family had no intention of leaving pulque behind.
192:59 Even though people stopped drinking pulque in cities,
193:02 it was still enjoyed in rural areas like where Pablo's family is from.
193:07 It was small-scale producers like them who kept pulque from disappearing completely.
193:34 >> >> They continued harvesting their agave plants
193:37 and fermenting their pulque in small rooms called tinacals,
193:40 like the one Pablo uses today.
193:43 He pours fresh aguamiel into a plastic barrel with pulque that's been fermenting for
193:48 up to 3 weeks.
194:06 >> >> He continues to add fresh aguamiel to the plastic barrel little by
194:09 little for up to 10 days,
194:11 depending on how strong he wants the batch.
194:35 In the past, Pablo's family made money selling to local pulquerias,
194:39 Mexican taverns that specialize in serving the ancient drink.
194:43 But these specialty bars have been disappearing in Mexico since the mid-1900s.
194:49 In 1953, there were over 1,200 pulquerias in Mexico City.
194:54 Nearly 60 years later, that number had dropped to just 72.
195:00 Since the 1980s, there has been a growing effort to revive pulque in Mexico.
195:06 In the 2010s, pulque started experiencing a renaissance.
195:10 Slowly, young Mexicans in search of ways to connect to their roots began flocking
195:15 to the drink.
195:32 Indian farmers are finding a new market to sell a fruit now trending in
195:36 the United States,
195:37 even though it's been a local favorite for a long time.
195:41 >> This is a mangosteen.
195:45 If you're unfamiliar with this tropical fruit, that might soon change.
195:49 Because the demand for its flavor is skyrocketing.
195:53 Just look at one of the 44.7 million TikTok posts with the hashtag mangosteen
195:59 fruit.
196:01 In India, the largest producer of the fruit in 2022,
196:05 a kilo of mangosteen costs $4.
196:08 But in the US, just one fruit can go for $6.
196:14 Even the saplings the nursery grows from the seeds of unsellable mangosteens are flying
196:18 off the shelves.
196:20 The global demand is
196:21 so high that farmers in India are doing everything they can to grow more,
196:26 including wiping their farms over the produce to plant more mangosteen trees.
196:32 All for a fruit
196:33 that couldn't be legally imported into the US from Asia until 2007.
196:39 But stateside vendors told Business Insider they've been finding ways to get their hands
196:44 on the fruit for decades.
196:46 So does demand go beyond TikTok-worthy visuals?
196:50 And why is this purple fruit so expensive?
196:55 Some describe mangosteen as sweet and tangy with notes of lychee, peach, and strawberry.
197:03 Others can't quite figure out how to describe it.
197:07 >> It's an emotion.
197:07 If you eat, you will understand.
197:09 I can't explain the taste.
197:12 >> As global demand keeps rising,
197:14 mangosteen farmers in Asia are doing everything they can to increase production.
197:22 One way farmers are trying to meet that demand is by simply growing more.
197:32 Merlin Woods Head Nursery in Kerala, South India,
197:35 decided to cut down its other fruits in favor of mangosteens.
197:40 >> Right now we are cutting all coconuts arecanut.
197:43 We are only promoting this mangosteen
197:45 because we have profit in this
197:47 that much demand we have right now.
197:50 >> Mangosteens currently make up 50% of the farm's profits.
197:54 So Manu says it's the right investment.
197:57 >> Future is fruitful.
197:59 Hey, I feel like that.
198:06 >> Other farmers like Shaju are catching on, too.
198:12 Even the saplings the nursery grows from the seeds of unsellable mangosteens are flying
198:16 off the shelves.
198:18 >> This year, I have just one plant
198:20 which give me fruit for almost 10,000 rupees worth fruit,
198:23 about 40 kilo each fruit.
198:26 So I thought, why not?
198:27 I'm taking 120.
198:30 I want to plant these saplings the best possible way
198:33 and I want to make it for a commercial purpose.
198:37 >> He won't be able to capitalize on mangosteens from those trees anytime soon.
198:42 It takes up to 10 years for a mangosteen tree to bear fruit.
198:48 They need a warm tropical climate with high humidity and slightly acidic soil.
198:54 That's why they're mainly produced in South and Southeast Asia.
199:04 Once the fruit does grow,
199:06 the farm tries to ensure pickers don't miss a single ripe mangosteen.
199:16 Badu has been picking mangosteens at the farm for 35 years.
199:30 During the peak season of June and July,
199:33 harvesters like Badu climb 40-ft trees in hopes of finding the best mangosteens considered
199:40 first grade.
199:42 First grade mangosteens are 4 to 8 cm in diameter with a purple
199:47 or nearly black outer shell
199:49 and a bright white fleshy fruit underneath.
199:55 It's a delicate dance
199:57 as the climbers race against the clock to pick mangosteens before they over-ripen
200:02 or fall ensuring no fruit goes to waste.
200:20 Pickers rotate through sections of the grove quickly to control the quality of their
200:25 product and prevent mangosteens from falling in between harvests.
200:32 And if one falls,
200:34 it will quickly lose its sought-after sweet and tangy taste and become inedible.
200:41 >> This one is a fell down fruit.
200:43 I think fell down before 2
200:44 or 3 days because it's already
200:47 as a stone.
200:48 We can't open it.
200:49 >> Even if a fruit on the ground isn't rock hard,
200:52 they still won't sell it.
200:54 Mangosteen can spoil within days of harvesting,
200:57 >> >> so there's a chance it'll go bad before reaching the customer.
201:01 But every mangosteen they do pick has a predetermined destination, according to Manu,
201:07 whose father started the mangosteen farm.
201:13 The destination guides harvesters in choosing which mangosteens to pick.
201:20 Nearly a third of the harvest is reserved for direct customers who come to
201:24 the farm to buy their mangosteen in smaller quantities.
201:29 The darkest, ripest mangosteens are sold to them
201:32 because they need to be eaten immediately.
201:36 Another third is purchased wholesale by other retailers.
201:40 They pay 350 rupees a kilogram or around $4.70.
201:46 These buyers seek less ripe, lighter purple mangosteens that can withstand transport times.
201:55 The final third goes to middlemen, including exporters who sell to other countries.
202:01 The further Manu has to send the mangosteens, the more expensive they get.
202:11 Shipping the mangosteens by air is five times as expensive as ground transportation,
202:17 which factors into the final price.
202:24 While only certain climates are suitable for farming prolific mangosteen trees,
202:28 farmers can't depend on high yields every year.
202:32 If a tree produces lots of fruit one year,
202:35 it will produce less the next, causing production to vary in cycles.
202:41 Last year, Manu's family farm made 10 million rupees
202:45 or about $119,000 in revenue from its harvest.
202:50 This year, >> >> Manu expects a third of that.
202:54 He says, "Regardless of fluctuating profits,
202:57 his family continues to benefit from mangosteens' surprising success."
203:03 But this growth is relatively new.
203:06 When Manu's father, Merlin Muthudon,
203:08 grew up eating mangosteens from a tree his grandfather planted over 100 years ago.
203:14 It wasn't a viable business.
203:50 He didn't make much money from it initially.
204:07 But last year, his mangosteens sold for almost 18 times that amount.
204:13 Merlin started off with 80 mangosteen trees,
204:16 and now he and his sons look after 1,000 and counting.
204:25 >> All the new generation peoples are not into farming.
204:29 I have a message like you all go for this kind of farming.
204:34 And if you have a good marketing skill also,
204:37 you can get a huge success from this.
204:42 >> Aneesh Malpani is dedicating his life to recycling something particularly challenging to reuse,
204:48 chip bags.
204:50 >> Humans make more than 6 million metric tons of potato chips each year,
204:56 >> >> and most of them come in bags like this.
204:59 They're typically made of multiple micro layers of plastics and aluminum,
205:04 each serving a different purpose.
205:07 And they're engineered to keep snacks fresh and crisp for 6 months or longer.
205:12 But this sophisticated design, used in everything from yogurt pouches to juice boxes,
205:17 >> >> has created a major environmental problem since the material almost always ends
205:22 up in landfills.
205:24 >> It's considered, quote and quote, impossible to recycle.
205:27 >> Anish Malpani quit his finance job and dedicated his life to solving this problem.
205:32 Since 2021, his startup has recycled 300,000 chip bags into sunglasses.
205:40 But why are these packages so difficult to recycle?
205:42 And are big manufacturers doing anything to fix the problem?
205:48 The middle of a modern chip bag is usually made from plastic resistant to
205:53 oil,
205:53 grease, and moisture.
205:56 But this doesn't fully block oxygen or light,
205:58 so it's often coated with aluminum to form the innermost layer.
206:02 The bag's outer layers must be strong, flexible, and printable.
206:06 So, they're made with two plastics.
206:08 The undercoat has the graphics, the outermost layer protects them.
206:13 Before a bag is sealed,
206:15 it's filled with nitrogen gas to create a low-oxygen, low-moisture atmosphere.
206:20 Together, this design helps chips stay fresh and crisp for 6 months.
206:25 And this deceptively simple-looking design is everywhere.
206:30 In 2023, the world produced enough MLPs to fill about 4 million garbage trucks.
206:38 And most recycling facilities don't have the technology to separate or process these packages.
206:44 So, they are usually sent to landfills or incinerators.
206:48 >> MLP is the black sheep of the plastic family.
206:50 Nobody wants this material.
206:52 >> Without's headquarters is just one of a handful of places in the world
206:55 that can recycle MLPs.
206:58 >> Because we were approaching this from a problem-first perspective,
207:02 we chose the things that nobody wants to work on.
207:05 In the beginning, many people thought we were idiots.
207:07 Like, you know, what are you doing?
207:08 This is like doesn't make any sense.
207:10 >> Anish and his team spent a lot of time buying
207:12 and modifying common manufacturing machines like shredders
207:16 and extruders to recycle these packages.
207:19 >> It's not like all of them are designed by us.
207:21 All of them are off-the-shelf.
207:22 It's a combination.
207:23 You know, it's like a jigsaw puzzle, right?
207:25 You kind of finding the space and making it.
207:27 >> First up is a modified shredder.
207:29 It's equipped with a special vacuum
207:31 that pulls the lightweight films through
207:33 so it doesn't clog.
207:35 >> MLP which is packaging is very light.
207:37 So, it's very hard to sometimes shred them.
207:39 You need like extra force to to suck the materials
207:43 so that actually like get shredded properly.
207:45 In the first shredder, we could do only about 1 kilo an hour maybe.
207:50 Now, we do 10 kilos an hour.
207:56 >> >> Workers wash the flakes to remove any glue or dirt.
208:06 >> >> Then they skim them and transfer them to drying racks.
208:14 A technician weighs the dried flakes before loading them into the company's real innovation,
208:19 a custom-built 100-liter reactor
208:21 that reaches about 250°
208:24 and actually separates the layers.
208:27 It took 2 years to figure out the right process.
208:31 Anish doesn't have a science background.
208:33 So, when he started Without,
208:35 he placed an ad online looking for someone to help him build machines
208:39 that recycle the unrecyclable.
208:41 >> And I came looking for uh scientist to help me tackle this.
208:47 >> That's how he found Dr.
208:48 Jitendra Samdani.
208:50 Jitendra's main challenge was to discover how to separate the mix of commonly used
208:55 plastics that make MLPs.
208:58 >> That's why people don't go towards the MLP recycling.
209:01 It's not a simple kind of waste.
209:03 >> He tried over a thousand experiments until he figured out the right reaction
209:08 that would isolate three of the most common types of plastics,
209:11 polypropylene, polyethylene, and PET.
209:15 >> That's the moment we say the wow moment for us.
209:19 >> Jitendra built a reactor to standardize and scale his new process.
209:24 It uses water with a high pH to cause a reaction
209:28 that partially separates the layers.
209:30 The reaction dissolves the aluminum
209:32 and breaks the PET plastic into its basic molecular structure.
209:36 >> And then what we get is a bunch of building blocks.
209:39 >> Anish's current R&D lab can separate about 8 kg of material a day,
209:44 but he wants to get closer to 100 kg before he opens a larger
209:48 plant.
209:49 >> And we're still working on improving the rate of the reaction
209:52 because we need to make sure
209:53 that we can do it in the most efficient way possible.
209:56 >> The reaction leaves behind a mix of plastics,
209:59 some of which can't be used to make Without Sunglasses.
210:03 Eventually, Anish wants to make bricks with them,
210:05 but for now they're just stored on site.
210:08 To get the needed PET plastic, workers wash the mix with sulfuric acid.
210:13 Then, they load the flakes into a barrel full of water
210:17 and connect two hoses to something called a hydrocyclone.
210:23 It's typically found in agriculture,
210:25 and it uses centrifugal force to separate sand and mud from water.
210:30 Here, that force separates the lighter plastics like polypropylene
210:34 and polyethylene from the heavier plastics like PVC
210:38 and nylon.
210:39 The material is continuously run through both the barrel
210:43 and hydrocyclone for 45 minutes until the only thing left are the lighter plastics,
210:48 which get skimmed off the top.
210:51 The plastics are dried overnight at 60° C.
210:56 In the morning, workers remove the flakes
210:58 and run them through a machine
210:59 that compacts them into a more solid form.
211:03 Workers then load it into a mixing machine
211:05 and sprinkle some of the naturally green materials with a fine black carbon-based powder.
211:12 >> Our material is not transparent.
211:13 It's either green, gray, or black.
211:20 >> A technician pours the flakes into a customized twin screw extruder that mixes, melts,
211:26 and pushes out the plastic as a filament.
211:30 >> We don't add any virgin plastic,
211:32 but we do add additives
211:33 and compatibilizers to give it the energy
211:35 and the life that it requires.
211:38 >> These additives include widely used chemicals which improve the plastic's overall quality and durability.
211:45 The filament leaves the extruder at 200° C
211:48 and it's cooled rapidly with water tanks.
211:51 Another machine cuts the filament into pellets.
211:55 Recycled plastic often starts in pellet form before it's shaped into a final product.
212:00 And it took over 2 years for Anish to figure out what his would
212:03 be.
212:04 >> So, we brainstormed over 400 different products.
212:07 We shortlisted 70.
212:09 Then, in the 70,
212:10 we looked at 27 different parameters based on like team excitement, complexity,
212:15 average Amazon searches, and margins, and all of that.
212:18 And then, sunglasses scored very highly on that.
212:21 >> The pellets are melted and injected into molds for frames and hinges.
212:26 Anish estimates that a single pair of glasses takes about five packets of chips.
212:32 A robotic arm stamps the hinges with a logo
212:34 and a QR code
212:35 so buyers know where
212:36 and when their frames were made.
212:39 Workers assemble each pair by hand-cutting plastic lenses imported from China
212:43 and screwing frames together.
212:46 >> So, we can make between 500 to 1,000 sunglasses a a month.
212:50 >> All told, the company has recycled 1,500 kg of MLPs.
212:54 >> That's like close to 300,000 packets of chips.
212:58 Um it sounds big, but it's not a lot.
213:01 We're this We're like a drop in the ocean.
213:04 >> For now, Without only sells them online in India for $10 a piece.
213:10 But, Anish hopes to expand the product to the US, Europe, Australia,
213:14 and New Zealand.
213:16 >> The craftsmen at this factory don't make just any instrument.
213:20 They're assembling Selmer saxophones, a brand played by greats like John Coltrane.
213:30 >> The main body of a saxophone starts out
213:32 as a 0.6 to 0.7 mm thick sheet of high-quality brass.
213:50 Thierry Oriaz has been president of Henri Selmer Paris since 2021.
213:56 He says the company sources all of its raw metals from the same foundries
214:00 in France and Germany to maintain quality control. 80% of the manufacturing process is
214:07 done by hand.
214:09 And because of that, the Selmer operation is massive.
214:13 The company has about 500 employees making about 10,000 saxophones every year in its
214:19 workshop.
214:20 Each with over 600 parts.
214:26 Each brass sheet is cut with a laser cutter pre-programmed to get the most
214:31 pieces from each sheet with
214:34 as little waste as possible.
214:42 These cutouts will form the four main parts of a saxophone.
214:47 The neck, the body, the bow, and the bell.
214:50 Selmer makes six types of saxophones.
214:54 The four main pieces have different specifications for each type.
215:00 After the pieces are cut and given a basic shape,
215:03 the bodies and necks are bent by hand by a craftsperson called a boilermaker.
215:09 The bow is also pushed through this ring made in-house from liquid tin,
215:15 which gives it a more precise shape.
215:18 The flare of the bell is
215:20 then attached to a thin brass ring to reinforce it
215:23 and hammer it into place by hand.
215:26 The necks are bent into that crook shape with this device.
215:33 Bows and bells are typically made by pressing the sheet into a mold,
215:38 creating two identical halves, which are then soldered together.
215:44 The workers pore over every inch of the instrument,
215:47 down to these mouthpieces or beaks,
215:49 which are molded from a vulcanized rubber called ebonite.
216:04 Each one must be perfect.
216:07 Key parts of this production process were invented by Selmer
216:11 and were adopted by the rest of the industry,
216:14 giving the company a reputation for quality that goes back over a century.
216:19 Take the way the tone holes are formed.
216:22 Oval circles are first cut by machine into the body,
216:26 and raised areas known
216:27 as chimneys are pulled out using a method invented by Selmer in 1922.
216:33 A machine grabs a circular piece of metal inside the body
216:37 and creates the tiny ridge you can see here.
216:40 And these elevated chimneys help keep the instrument airtight by providing secure seating for
216:46 the key pads.
216:47 The sealing of a saxophone is crucial to its final sound.
216:54 Selmer also pioneered a more recent innovation, improving the keys on its newest model.
217:25 >> >> The company spent 12 years designing the Supreme, named after Coltrane's album,
217:31 working with dozens of saxophonists around the world.
217:35 Selmer spent so much time on the keys
217:38 because it's the most important factor in how the sax feels to the musician.
218:01 >> >> That's why quality control for the keys, particularly during final assembly,
218:06 is a top priority.
218:19 Another way they test for quality is by placing a small light inside the
218:23 body.
218:24 This reveals any leaks or gaps that might have formed around the tone holes,
218:29 which could affect the sound.
218:59 >> >> A saxophone goes through multiple stages of polishing, both by machine and by hand,
219:05 to bring out the luster >> >> of the brass.
219:25 >> >> A special finish, while adding to the aesthetic,
219:27 can affect the instrument's tone and price.
219:30 For example, a tenor saxophone can reach about $30,000 with a gold-plated finish.
219:39 Selmer has also been engraving its instruments with signature designs since the beginning.
219:57 But the final step in making a saxophone, and one of the most important,
220:01 is to check the sound.
220:03 And the best way to do this is by playing it.
220:21 >> >> A play tester, like Matthieu Tomat,
220:23 will make sure everything feels and sounds perfect by playing each assembled saxophone.
220:43 Selmer requires its play-testers to be high-level musicians like its customers.
220:49 Matthieu is currently studying for his master's at the Conservatoire de Versailles.
220:54 If something sounds off, he will go back and inform the final assembler,
220:58 who will check for any leaks or flaws in key assembly.
221:20 Once a saxophone passes the test,
221:22 it's packed up and shipped to customers around the world.
221:28 >> In Indonesia, there's a delicacy lurking beneath these shallow muddy waters,
221:33 but it's in danger of disappearing.
221:39 This crab fisherman is looking for the slightest movement on the surface of these
221:44 muddy waters.
221:48 When a claw emerges,
221:49 he sticks his bare hands in to grab it before it grabs him.
221:59 Mud crabs like this one have large meaty claws
222:02 and are prized across Asia for their sweet taste.
222:06 Here in Indonesia, villagers prepare it with local mangrove fruits and a secret spice.
222:12 In Singapore, they're the centerpiece of the national dish,
222:16 even though local crab populations have declined
222:19 so drastically that they're mostly imported from other countries now.
222:24 But mud crab habitats across Asia are disappearing.
222:28 If Indonesia, one of the mud crabs' last havens,
222:32 doesn't save the mangroves where they live, the creatures don't stand a chance.
222:45 >> >> The Indonesian government
222:46 and so-called crab villages like this one say they are replanting trees
222:51 and cleaning up pollution to help preserve the species.
222:55 But is it too little, too late?
223:01 Kolik is a 51-year-old mud crab fisherman at Kampung Kepiting Ekowisata Bali in Indonesia.
223:26 He specializes in tracking down the elusive creatures in their natural habitats.
223:30 Salt-tolerant trees and shrubs known as mangroves that grow along coastlines.
223:43 >> >> Barrel-shaped bamboo traps called bubus are an easy way to catch them.
223:48 Kolik baits the bubus with fish
223:50 or chicken heads and drops them in spots where the crabs usually feed on
223:53 plants,
223:54 mollusks, and crustaceans.
224:30 >> He also uses a bent iron tool to poke around in the mud
224:33 trying not to disturb the delicate mangroves.
225:01 >> >> But catching mud crabs can be painful.
225:38 In 2020, the Indonesian government outlawed harvesting crabs smaller than 12 cm >> >>
225:44 or weighing under 150 g.
225:47 And pregnant females are off-limits completely.
225:51 This crab village has its own slightly stricter rules to give the local crab
225:55 population in these swamps a better chance to grow back.
225:59 Fishermen are only allowed to catch a crab
226:01 if it weighs at least 200 g.
226:04 But it needs to weigh 300 g or more to be sold and eaten.
226:09 So, smaller crabs like these will need to spend about 4 months fattening up
226:14 in a plastic container they call a crab apartment.
226:17 Here the villagers can easily feed them
226:19 and monitor their growth until they are ready to be eaten.
226:23 By focusing only on adult crabs,
226:25 they are allowing the younger crabs time to grow large enough to reproduce
226:29 and help prevent population decline.
226:32 There are about 500 of these crab apartments on site.
226:57 Made Sumasa is the head of the fisherman's association Colic
227:01 and other local fishers belong to.
227:03 Once they weigh anywhere from 300 to 500 g,
227:07 the crabs are ready to move out of the apartments
227:09 and into the kitchens of the crab village's restaurant.
227:13 The local fisherman's association founded the crab village
227:16 and purchases all of the crabs caught on site.
227:20 Fisherman here catch only enough to feed the visitors of the restaurant.
227:23 >> >> Mhm.